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**Randar** · 01-06-2011, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruelkix

That is a bummer that you can only go up in increments of 10. Looks like the guy did a very nice install. Good idea with the divert valve. I guess this is out of the question for replacing a HLT. Too bad....

Not really, but the time you need to be using/heating the HLT is dramatically reduced. No inefficient propane usage or expensive electricity rates to bring
water up to mash or sparge temps.

cruelkix · 01-06-2011, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randar

Not really, but the time you need to be using/heating the HLT is dramatically reduced. No inefficient propane usage or expensive electricity rates to bring
water up to mash or sparge temps.

Yeah I mean i use my hot water heater to give me 120 degree water right now and it totally helps for both strike and sparge water. But yeah, looks like I can't get rid of the HLT all together unless I rig it up.

wildwest450 · 01-06-2011, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruelkix

Obtrusive? Compared to a 75 gallon hot water heater the thing is tiny.

True, but my hotwater heater doesn't have 15 rows of lines running all over the place.

Don't get me wrong, I like the idea.

**Randar** · 01-06-2011, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wildwest450

True, but my hotwater heater doesn't have 15 rows of lines running all over the place.

It only has gas and water in/out (and venting/intake which for most folks is tied to a flue in their traditional hot water heater setup). These are direct vent like high efficiency furnaces.

cruelkix · 01-06-2011, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wildwest450

True, but my hotwater heater doesn't have 15 rows of lines running all over the place.

Don't get me wrong, I like the idea.

Like Randar said, it has the same number of in/outs as your current heater does except he has some extra piping and stuff to run it to his brew rig. I hear what youare saying tho, it looks like more, but I think thats becuase on a standard water heater, the take up vertical space more than wall space.

Jknapp · 01-06-2011, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randar

I also have a diverter valve, but I still have to remember to go hit the keypad back to normal temps.

So true. I have to do remember to do the same. I forgot to change it the other day.. luckily the wifey & little one were napping and i remembered..

Next addition: a "change it back to 120 dummy" sign to hang on the diverter valve..

Beernip · 01-06-2011, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randar

I also have a diverter valve, but I still have to remember to go hit the keypad back to normal temps.

That's a good idea. I sometimes get in trouble from the mrs when I forget to change it back. I get in more trouble when she hops in the shower after I have it set at 90* for filling a carboy with hot water than for having it at my 140* max but at 180* that could cause some hurt.

You could also take a que from Brewmasters where they have the hot and cold line run in to a Y joint out with valves on each side. Keep the hot side at 180 and add enough cold water to bring the temp down to close to the correct temp. He keeps and eye on the thermometer while he is filling and adjusts the cold as needed.

Melnyk · 01-06-2011, 10:17 PM

a little o/t but im a plumber by trade, did he install any valves to flush out the heat exchanger of the heater? usually you have to flush out these things with vinegar every so often to kill the scale on the inside of the HE when they get scaled up they will throw an error code...

Jknapp · 01-06-2011, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randar

I have been able to hit 180 with 45 degree ground water. Flow rate is ???? as I have not measured exactly.

I wouldn't trust the hot water heater to hit the EXACT temp you need for mash-in though... I would still have some kind of regulating tank.

You have the Noritz right? Hold up & down arrow (on keypad) at the same time and you enter a list of service codes. Scroll with up arrow to 31 & it will tell you precisely the outgoing GPM's. It can tell you a bunch of other cool things too. I'll get the list and post what the codes are..

It can tell you the exact temp of the water leaving the hot water out. When I set my temp to 180 and ran it, there are moments when the heater has heated the water to 195+ - for brief moments, then it settles back to 180 on the nose.

**Randar** · 01-06-2011, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Melnyk

a little o/t but im a plumber by trade, did he install any valves to flush out the heat exchanger of the heater? usually you have to flush out these things with vinegar every so often to kill the scale on the inside of the HE when they get scaled up they will throw an error code...

Mine has output valves right below the tank that I could use to backflush or the like as you note, but I have very very low mineral content water here with Lake Michigan water. I actually threw on QD's so I take my brewing water from as near the source as possible (and with the disconnect for the rest of the house engaged)

I don't see the same in the pictures above, but they could be hidden?