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Old 01-09-2009, 03:19 PM   #1
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Default Starting my RIMS Set up?

So I finished my brewstand, single tier set up, and I have been searching the forum for the proper way to start my all grain process. Now I have an idea on the necessary steps involved but would like some constructive words of wisdom from the veterans. I have a single pump set up with a heater element as my source of heat and a honeywell controller to maintain necessary heat. I have a keggle and a keg as my mash tun w(false bottom) and a keg as my HLT. I need a noob crash course with a easy grain bill.

I have all necessary connections and hoses (I THINK). Oh and I have 2 burners 23 jet propane 1 for the HLT and the other for the keggle. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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Old 01-09-2009, 03:26 PM   #2
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You built/bought all of that and you haven't brewed an AG batch yet? Wow - you definately like to dive in head first.

Are you looking for generic AG procedures or help on how to use the RIMS setup?

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Old 01-09-2009, 04:20 PM   #3
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I may be asking for alot but both would be nice, I know it seems crazy but I figure I might as well go for it, I got alot of the equipment for a good deal and I am hooked on brewing. I am a plumbing heating tech by trade so the mechanical aspect comes easy, its the rest that I am interested in. I have brewed some extract and some partial grain and lme kits but want to get into the heart of the animal.

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Old 01-09-2009, 04:22 PM   #4
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Running a RIMS will be easier than single infusion mashing... and trying to hit temps. At least this beast will hit temps for you.

I run a HERMS, and have studied both. What you are going to find is that it should be easy to maintain temps with the temp controller (where are you measuring the wort temp?)

What you will aslo find is that each system has a personality that only through use, will you be able to understand. Your system may have a temp differential (between the RIMS heater and the MLT) due to normal heat loss during the transfer.

What you NEED to do is fill your HLT and MLT with the same volumes that you will be using when you brew. Then, run the system as you will when you are mashing and sparging... this is a dry (wet) run. This will familiarize you with heating times, point out any leaks and give you an idea of your systems specific "personality". Flow rates, heating times, and any temp differentials that you may incur when actually brewing.

Your first brew will be an "experiment" of sorts... take good notes. Temps, times etc... so that you know what to expect in later brews and so that you can correct anything you deem as a problem.

#1 though is the dry (wet) run... you have to do that first IMHO

Preheat your mash strike water to strike +10 or even +15F to preheat the MLT. When you do your dry run, take note of how quickly the strike water cools to the appropriate strike temp.

Mash in... stir thoroughly, take time to break up any dough balls and such. Assimilating the temp at this point is not a HUGE concern since you will be starting your RIMS recirc shortly. This will help to equalize temps in the mash.

Start the recirc. (are you going to recirc continuously and control the heater only?) I recommend recirculating continuously, that is how I roll... You can do whatever you want. But, really the less insulated the MLT, the more you want to recirc and heat anyway to reduce cold spots where heat is lost (bottom, top and sides of a SS keg).

During the mash, heat your HLT water to your sparge temp (168F or so)

Monitor your RIMS temps and the resulting MLT temps... see if there is a differential, and take note of what it is. Most controllers allow you to set a differential or dead band... play with this during the dry run to see what is most appropriate for your system.

Mashout... take note of how much time it takes to reach mashout temps in the MLT... this will be evident when the output of the MLT is the same temp of the input to the MLT (168F or so)

But, again, please do a dry run... this will save you MUCHO headaches on brew day.

This would be a good brew...
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/cent...10-gall-42841/

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Old 01-09-2009, 05:06 PM   #5
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I have a tap on the back side of the MLT and I am inserting a temperature well with the appropriate sensor, or I have the option of doing a in the mash sensor that is not stationary. My idea was also a dry run or wet run and see how quick it comes to temp and monitor the changes. Then do a low grain bill 5 gal batch, but I am looking for some steps as I am new to AG, and what steps you would have for a noob to AG. Example 1 measure grains and hops. 2 measure water needed, get up to temp according to grain ambient temp etc etc.

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Old 01-09-2009, 05:16 PM   #6
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#1 you are going to have a HORRIBLE time running a RIMS with a temp sensor in the MLT. That is pretty much a no no on RIMS or HERMS building 101.

Your temp controller will not know what the RIMS output temp is, and therefore could be heating it to 170F and it will never know, because the mash has not come up to temp yet. Once it does, then your mash will have overshot your set temp.

I think there is an AG Primer thread on here somewhere that spells out AG brewing for a beginner. If you are talking about going all the way back to measuring water and grains... that is where you need to look probably. I will see if I can find it for ya.

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Old 01-09-2009, 05:19 PM   #7
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The coolest thing. A stainless Tee with two QD's and a thermowell for the LOVE probe. This is great because it allows me to move it from kettle to kettle, measuring outflow temperature. This is the most direct way of reading temps in the system. Predominately used on the recirculating mash, it measures direct outflow of the mash, right above the burner. It is also used to measure cooling temps in the boil kettle.


This is from the Brutus Ten website from Lonnie Mac

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Old 01-09-2009, 05:24 PM   #8
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You guys are the best!!!

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Old 01-09-2009, 05:24 PM   #9
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Again, in a RIMS where you have a separate heating chamber you cannot place the temp sensor in the MLT, or the outlet. If you are direct firing, the outlet is the best solution because it is immediately down line from the heat source, in a RIMS with a heating chamber separate, it need to be IMMEDIATELY down line as well, not in the MLT.

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Old 01-09-2009, 05:29 PM   #10
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POL can I sub pearl malt for the pale for this batch due to I have about 30lbs left over?

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