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Old 10-07-2012, 03:38 PM   #11
dbrewski
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I read a Brew you Own article on Partigyle (google it). The thing I found interesting was that about half the gravity came out of the first third of the batch volume, then the other half was in the second two-thirds of volume. So judging from this, let's say your grain bill is for a 10 gal. batch. He's saying basically the strong beer would be the first 3.5 gallons of runnings, the small beer would be the final 6.5 gallons. That way even your small beer has a reasonable gravity to start with. I realize this doesn't match your plans exactly, but it was an interesting way of thinking about it.

[Edit] Here it is, it's not BYO after all:

http://morebeer.com/brewingtechnique....2/mosher.html

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Old 10-07-2012, 04:59 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by dbrewski View Post
I read a Brew you Own article on Partigyle (google it). The thing I found interesting was that about half the gravity came out of the first third of the batch volume, then the other half was in the second two-thirds of volume. So judging from this, let's say your grain bill is for a 10 gal. batch. He's saying basically the strong beer would be the first 3.5 gallons of runnings, the small beer would be the final 6.5 gallons. That way even your small beer has a reasonable gravity to start with. I realize this doesn't match your plans exactly, but it was an interesting way of thinking about it.

[Edit] Here it is, it's not BYO after all:

http://morebeer.com/brewingtechnique....2/mosher.html
Dbrewski, is right. Your first runnings, when batch sparging, would be the xxx beer. The second runnings would be the xx beer. If you started with a large enough grain bill, you're third runnings would be your x beer.

I don't have two kettles to run simultaneously, so I remember making a russian imperial stout and oatmeal stout back to back took up most of my Saturday. In my case I added flaked oats the mash after my first runnings.

Running a full batch off your grains and then sparging them again for a lightly colored, tasteless, < 1.010 beer is just gonna result in a tanniny beer. Even if you top off with DME.
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There are actually techniques that some use that are an open fermentation where they basically ferment in a bucket covered in aluminu, alumini, aluemin... tin foil.
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:48 PM   #13
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Running a full batch off your grains and then sparging them again for a lightly colored, tasteless, < 1.010 beer is just gonna result in a tanniny beer. Even if you top off with DME.
Agreed with this but I disagree with adding oats...i wouldn't want to add a must-mash adjunct that late, especially in a pale ale. I often add fresh crystal or only mash the base malt and steep the specialty grains for both batches on the stove so I can do 2 completely different beers.

I like the blending method over adding extract but it requires an extra kettle or at least a couple of buckets to run wort out into. The proper traditional way was to blend after boiling or in some cases after fermentation....i haven't tried that way. The way i usually do it is if i have a 1.065 big beer that needs 13lbs of grain and a 1.035 small beer that would need 7 pounds of grain, I will mash 20lbs of grain plus a lb or 2 to make up for the lost efficiency in a bigger mash. My first runnings will be in the 1.085 range, the second runnings will be in the 1.016 range (both run into seperate plastic buckets) and I will calculate the blending ratio to get 1.065 in the big beer kettle and 1.035 in the small beer kettle. (you need a refractometer and some basic math skills).

It takes a long long time if you have only one boil kettle. I bought a second turkey burner so I can boil both side by side but before I had the second burner, I would do only a half batch of the small beer on the stove and the big beer outside on the gas burner....but chilling the wort is the bottle neck as I only have 1 chiller.
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