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Old 11-28-2012, 05:57 PM   #11
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With the equipment you have you could easily do partial mash or AG batches.

Use your kettle as your HLT. After mashing drain into your bucket. Batch sparge with water from your kettle/HLT. Then transfer your wort from your bucket back into your kettle and start your boil. Batch sparging is really quick and efficient.

I've used a similar setup for a few years now. I actually have another kettle I can use for a separate HLT but most of the time I just pull out the one on brew day.
^^^This, exactly how I do it. All-grain with one 7.5 gal kettle and one 10 gal cooler.
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:08 PM   #12
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^^^This, exactly how I do it. All-grain with one 7.5 gal kettle and one 10 gal cooler.
I even go without the cooler. Mash right in the kettle, pull the bag out and let it drain, sparge if I feel like I want more volume and then boil it. One less container to wash.
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Old 12-01-2012, 03:18 AM   #13
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Wondering what kind of efficiency I should expect if I'm partial mashing in my brew pot and just letting it drain versus pouring spathe water trough it by hand? I kind of need this info so I can formulate a first recipe an try it out.

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Old 12-01-2012, 10:24 AM   #14
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Wondering what kind of efficiency I should expect if I'm partial mashing in my brew pot and just letting it drain versus pouring spathe water trough it by hand? I kind of need this info so I can formulate a first recipe an try it out.
The efficiency depends mostly on the crush of the grains. I think you can plan on about 65% without sparging and perhaps 70 to maybe 75% with sparging with the grains already crushed for you. If you had your own mill and milled very fine, partial mashed in a bag so you didn't have to depend on the grain husks forming a filter, you would likely get near 80% without sparging and 85% with sparging.
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:49 PM   #15
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Ok. Only have a 5gal kettle so I'll be putting the 6lb's of grain I have just in a colander above the kettle and letting drip. I may pour spathe water over the top but I assume it probably won't rinse all the grains due to the shape of the ball of grains.

My plan is 5.5lb of Marris Otter and 1/2lb crystal 60. BYO from 2 month back says to spathe until I get 3.6 gal so I'll do that just not sure how much I'll actually extract. I'm going to boil this and then add 1lb of dme at end of boil. Making a bitter at around 1.037.

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Old 12-04-2012, 01:57 AM   #16
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Not to high jack your thread but i just started using a 5 gal igloo cooler to mash in. After spargeing what do you do to the bag? Should you squeeze it to get all liquid out?

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Old 12-04-2012, 10:22 AM   #17
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Not to high jack your thread but i just started using a 5 gal igloo cooler to mash in. After spargeing what do you do to the bag? Should you squeeze it to get all liquid out?
You should squeeze it as much as you can. Any liquid left in the bag with the grains is filled with sugars that you want for your yeast to turn into alcohol.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:49 AM   #18
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I've used a Zapap lauter tun for several years but find I like it less and less. It works great, but there are a couple problems. 1) It can be deceiving on volumes. Often it looks like there is plenty of volume for a bigger/heavier batch but the volume is actually the lower bucket, not the upper one. Any higher than that and the wort will flow out and all over. 2) Separating the buckets afterwards is almost impossible sometimes, so making sure they are properly cleaned can be a problem. I think the sugars from the wort are actually gluing them together when they cool.

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Old 12-04-2012, 11:05 AM   #19
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the volume is actually the lower bucket, not the upper one. Any higher than that and the wort will flow out and all over
doesn't even have to be overflowing. I lost a lot of wort while stirring the mash; it would splash out from between the 2 buckets.

hopefully, santa is bringing a turkey fryer and cooler MLT, so my Zapap can be retired.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:58 PM   #20
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Not to high jack your thread but i just started using a 5 gal igloo cooler to mash in. After spargeing what do you do to the bag? Should you squeeze it to get all liquid out?
Just curious: If you're using a cooler as a mash tun then why BIAB, why not just drain and batch sparge?
I don't do BIAB but my understanding is the only real advantage is that it is a one vessel system, it allows you to do all AG without a separate mash tun.

Also, while it may recover a little more sugar I'd be wary of some tannin extraction with a lot of squeezing. Again though, I don't do BIAB so I have no experience with squeezing.
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