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Old 02-09-2013, 06:32 PM   #1
Varmintman
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Default No sparge mash

I am sure that the good folks here will be able to answer this question. I am going to switch to a no sparge method with tonights brew. I have figured the water volume I will need but not the strike temp. Seems to me since you are adding all the water as strike water you would not need to heat it as far above your target temp.

I am roughly doubling my normal strike water that I would head 10 degrees above my target temp. I am thinking since I double the mass of water I should halve the 10 degree buffer to heat the grain up. So for a 150 degree mash I think 155 for the strike water. If it is to low I can draw some off and boil it to bring it up and if it is to high a few ice cubes to bring it down.

Can I say whoot though once I figure out the new temps for NO SPARGE BREWING

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Old 02-09-2013, 06:37 PM   #2
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The only problem that I see with no sparge is that your efficiency will take a pretty big hit.

http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Batch_Sparging_Analysis

Was just reading about batch sparging here and a little ways down the page is a chart on efficiency.

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Old 02-09-2013, 06:44 PM   #3
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What do you have for equipment? Are you not set up for sparging?

I'd do a couple quick sparges. I've messed with batch sparging a bit. Y'll get more fermetables.

At over 1000 posts you have probably learned a lot on this forum.

...maybe suggest reading the posts at the bottom of the page too.

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Old 02-09-2013, 06:47 PM   #4
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I figure I will lose a little bit but looking at that chart it seems that up to gravities around 1.040 will still hit 80%. When you get into the higher gravities that is where the efficiency really takes a hit. All of my beers I target for 1.040 so I think if I add another half pound of grain I should be fine

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Old 02-09-2013, 06:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynachrome View Post
What do you have for equipment? Are you not set up for sparging?

I'd do a couple quick sparges. I've messed with batch sparging a bit. Y'll get more fermetables.

At over 1000 posts you have probably learned a lot on this forum.

...maybe suggest reading the posts at the bottom of the page too.
My first batch I fly sparged and then I have been batch sparging since. I am just to the point that a little hit is no big thing when I can sit back and drink more beer.
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:21 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varmintman

My first batch I fly sparged and then I have been batch sparging since. I am just to the point that a little hit is no big thing when I can sit back and drink more beer.
I second this. Until I get my rig together, I'll drink while sparging.

So, back to no sparge. what is the disadvantage to having a thin mash in order to get full boil volume? OP said adding a half pound more to grain bill. I think much more will be needed. beer smith anyone?
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:35 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by maddad View Post
I second this. Until I get my rig together, I'll drink while sparging.

So, back to no sparge. what is the disadvantage to having a thin mash in order to get full boil volume? OP said adding a half pound more to grain bill. I think much more will be needed. beer smith anyone?
Well I will take notes but they will be pretty useless for the first one I think. I used my corona to grind some wheat for bread and when I changed it back for the barley I think I might have ground it to fine.

With a 9 pound grain bill a extra half pound is quite a bit I think.
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:35 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varmintman View Post
I am sure that the good folks here will be able to answer this question. I am going to switch to a no sparge method with tonights brew. I have figured the water volume I will need but not the strike temp. Seems to me since you are adding all the water as strike water you would not need to heat it as far above your target temp.

I am roughly doubling my normal strike water that I would head 10 degrees above my target temp. I am thinking since I double the mass of water I should halve the 10 degree buffer to heat the grain up. So for a 150 degree mash I think 155 for the strike water. If it is to low I can draw some off and boil it to bring it up and if it is to high a few ice cubes to bring it down.

Can I say whoot though once I figure out the new temps for NO SPARGE BREWING
Just figure it out how you do normally, but use the water to grist ratio that includes all the water,
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:49 PM   #9
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Well I halved the buffer temp and missed the mash temp by 2 degrees. Not a problem though I pulled a little bit of water and boiled it and added it.

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Old 02-10-2013, 02:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varmintman
I figure I will lose a little bit but looking at that chart it seems that up to gravities around 1.040 will still hit 80%. When you get into the higher gravities that is where the efficiency really takes a hit. All of my beers I target for 1.040 so I think if I add another half pound of grain I should be fine
I no sparge often, it's all I do for smaller beers like Mild and Dry Stout. For those styles, 1.040 or less, efficiency won't take a huge it... but I've never been at 80%. I actually calculate my recipe at 70% for small beers, 65% for 1.050ish beers, then I won't no sparge anything bigger since its just as easy to batch sparge. The primary reason I use this method is to produce a more malty session beer, and I think it works very well!
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