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Old 04-06-2007, 03:03 AM   #1
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Default My 2 cents for newbies...

I'm not an expert brewer or anything, but I have learned a few things since I started.

I wasn't planning on brewing at all this winter due to time constraints. For the heck of it, I put together a small kitchen brewing system. Its turned out to be my best brewing season yet. I thought I'd share a few things I learned recently.

1) Small batches rule, while you are learning or testing new recipes.

This winter I'm brewing 3 gallon batches. I started doing that because I was watching www.basicbrewing.com and they were doing it, and I had all the equipment on hand and my HERMs system is sitting in storage, so I decided to give a small batch a try. It turned out to be an excellent way to brew.

Small batches are great because they are quick to brew, they don't cost much to throw away if you mess up, they don't take big expensive equipment and they get you brewing more often.

Practice makes perfect, right ? Well, if you drink 15 gallons of brew a year and you brew 5 gallon batches, you only brew 3x. If you brew 3 gallon batches, you get 5 brew sessions and 5 different brews.

I know that some of you are screaming that 3 gallon batches are just as much work as 5 gallon batches. They pretty much are. But the boil goes faster. The chilling goes faster. There are less grains to dig out of the mash vessel. There is less to bottle. They are easier.

I'll be using 3 gallon batches to test and tweak every recipe I do from now on. Once its perfected with small batches, I'll move to 6, 12 and 15 gallon batches as necessary.

2) Go AG as soon as possible.

I did one extract brew before going AG. I had made a bunch of wines, so I understood the yeast, sanitation and bottling stuff pretty well. I'm glad I didn't spend a whole season messing around with extract beers.

I'm sure that one can make some decent extract beers, but I don't think that extract brewing will give you the control and versatility that AG brewing will. With a good AG setup, you can do pretty much anything that a commercial brewer can. Yes, AG takes more equipment and there is a lot more to go wrong in the process, but the results are worth it.

There is also the cost factor. Big beers get expensive with extracts.

If you are serious about brewing, you'll want to get to AG. The sooner you start, the sooner you'll master it.

3) Get your LHBS to crush your grains.

When you are starting out, especially when you are doing 3 gallon brews, you aren't using a lot of grain. It doesn't pay to buy sacks of malt and it doesn't pay to buy a grain mill. By getting the LHBS to crush your grains, it eliminates one potential area to screw up.

4) Steam mashing with a cooler rules.

Mashing is all about temperature control. Get your temps right and starch conversion is easy. Miss the temperatures and you might as well be thowing darts blindfolded.

Coolers are great at holding temperatures steady over time. Traditionally coolers lack the ability to easily add heat to the mash to do mash steps or reach mash out temps. Adding a steam system to a cooler removes that limitation.

As soon as you add steam to the system, you no longer have to worry about getting the strike temperature exactly right. If you miss it, just give it a shot of steam to get it right.

You don't have to worry about having the best insulated cooler. You can easily boost the temp if it falls.

You can do multi step mashes. And you can heat the mash up for mash out. (Prevent stuck mashes !) Raising the mash temp is as easy as opening the steam valve and doing a bit of stirring. You don't need to buy a pump. You don't need to worry about scorching wort. You don't need to worry about diluting the mash. Its fast and efficient.

See the threads in my sig for my steam setup. Flyguys has posts on his steam setup too.

I've got more to say, but I'll leave it at that for now.

Good luck and good brewing.


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Old 04-06-2007, 03:12 AM   #2
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Thanks for posting man. Steam mashing is in my future fosho.
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Old 04-06-2007, 03:13 AM   #3
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One more thing... If you make a small MLT for doing PMs for 5 gallon batches or 3 gallon AG batches, don't make it too small. I know lots of people that have made 2 and 3 gallon MLTs and they are too small for doing a 3 gallon beer. That goes double for doing heavier beers.

I'm using a 16 quart Coleman cooler. Its the perfect size for 3 gallon brews. Its deep for its size so it works well for fly sparging. I wouldn't use anything smaller.
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Old 04-06-2007, 03:16 AM   #4
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yeah I've got a 2gal MLT....I like it bc it's small and convienient but yeah....I can only fill 4Lb of grain in it which really isn't too much

Even for 3 gallon batches (which is all I'm doing for now) it's too small AG

I've got a grain bag and a big ass colender I've been useing.....it works but it's a PITA
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Old 04-06-2007, 03:31 AM   #5
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Nice post, brewman. I like your thinking about doing small batches -- I have done a number of PMs and a few small AG batches in my 3 gallon cooler MLT, and I will also add that:

1. 3 gallon AG is really cheap to assemble (5 gallon pot, 3 gallon cooler and a SS braid or mesh bag and you are in business). Great practice for larger AG batches, and useful unto themselves as you point out above.

2. If you want to brew larger batches, do a partial mash at 3 gallons and supplement with a late addition of extract and top up with water to reach 5 gallons. PM beers are cheaper and far better tasting than all-extract brews.

3. A steam infusion system is a great addition that will cost you almost nothing, especially if you already have a pressure cooker (I did my system for about $30, including the cooker; see my sig below). It will widen your ability to brew almost anything.

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Old 04-06-2007, 04:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewman !
Practice makes perfect, right ? Well, if you drink 15 gallons of brew a year and you brew 5 gallon batches, you only brew 3x. If you brew 3 gallon batches, you get 5 brew sessions and 5 different brews.
Really? Heh. I've brewed 25 gallons in the last six weeks. That works out to about 56 cans of the old crap I used to buy. It doesn't even have a hope of getting me through the summer, let alone the entire year. Hell, five gallons won't get me through a month.

Should I be talking to someone?
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Old 04-06-2007, 02:00 PM   #7
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15 gallons was just a number I used. We drink a lot more than that too.

Another thing I strongly recommend is to get a decent electronic thermometer, something so that you know the exact temp of the mash and sparge water.

There are various ways to get one. Use an electronic meat thermometer, find a voltmeter with a temperature input, build a sensor based on a LM34 and use it with a voltmeter, get a wide range room temp thermometer or buy a special brewing thermometer. Dial thermometers are OK, but its nice not to have to open the mash vessel every time you want to check the temp and its really nice to be able to read it from across the room. I don't care for mercury thermometers at all. But they do work.

Another really nice use of an electronic thermometer is to watch the temp of the wort as it comes up to boil/during boil to prevent boilovers and to measure the temp of the wort as its being cooled.
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Last edited by brewman !; 04-06-2007 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 04-06-2007, 03:11 PM   #8
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Good post i did two extract, now im building all my all grain stuff for my next brew. All i have left to buy is a propane tank and a wort cooler.
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Old 04-06-2007, 07:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fingers
Really? Heh. I've brewed 25 gallons in the last six weeks. That works out to about 56 cans of the old crap I used to buy.
Those cans must have been HUGE!
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Old 04-06-2007, 07:31 PM   #10
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brewman - Thanks for all the great information. Nice post I will have to print that out and review it closer, as I am a true newbie. I was always told that the larger the batch the better, so this will help me get started quicker......and will be a lot of fun to brew many different brews as well.

Thanks again
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