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Old 09-22-2008, 06:34 PM   #1
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Default Mom, where does chill haze come from?

Yes, cold temps, haha.
But seriously, I use irish moss in my boil, I leave most brews in the primary for two weeks, secondary for up to three weeks, and still get chill haze. I'd like to think I don't care, but dogginit, I do! When the beer warms up to room temp, it's crystal clear. But coming out of the tap or bottle (around 50 deg), it's haze city.
Is there anything that can be done about this? Is there anything else I should be doing? What causes chill haze?
Thanks HBT!

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Old 09-22-2008, 06:35 PM   #2
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From my experience, the longer it sits at serving temps, the clearer it gets.

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Old 09-22-2008, 06:45 PM   #3
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I have not had that experience. I've had kegs in the fridge for a month that still have haze.
I've been doing my homework and found Polyclar. Anyone out there using it or have any experience with it?

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Old 09-22-2008, 06:49 PM   #4
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I've noticed that when I use irish moss and I cool the wort down quickly I don't get chill haze, otherwise I do.

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Old 09-22-2008, 06:51 PM   #5
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How quick is quick? I use my IC and it takes 25 min for 5 gal and nearly an hour for 10 gal to cool the wort down to pitchable temps.

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Old 09-22-2008, 06:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacksonbrown View Post
Is there anything that can be done about this? Is there anything else I should be doing?
One key is to chill your wort down as quickly as possible, to maximize precipitation of cold break. What kind of chiller do you use?

I brewed a kolsch that had a strange kind of chill haze, it had almost a gun-metal tint to it when chilled. I cold conditioned for months, but it would not clear. While it tasted fine, it's was downright unappetizing to look at, not the kind of thing you want to present to friends. I first tried some polyclar in the keg, which didn't seem to help. I then added gelatin, and about a week later it cleared entirely.
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Old 09-22-2008, 06:56 PM   #7
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As mentioned above, I use an IC, so chilling isn't that quick. A few post up from that I ask about Polyclar. From what I've read, using it in the keg wouldn't be as effecient as using it in the primary and then racking off of it (but I could be wrong about that). but it does intrigue me, and at $2.50 for 1 ounce (five batches worth), it's probably worth a try.

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Old 09-22-2008, 10:19 PM   #8
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Its probably worth the $0.50 a batch to see if it cures what ails ya. Chill haze is simply protein dancing with polyphenols/tannins. The only way to prevent it is to either more aggressively cool your wort, filter at around 34 deg or add a clarifier like silica to drop out the proteins. Be careful of too much silica - you can behead your beer...

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Old 09-23-2008, 12:53 AM   #9
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I think it is best to have all your wort cooled to pitching temp in 15 minutes. I usually hit around that time, I use a gravity drain CFC though.

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Old 09-23-2008, 01:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordie View Post
Its probably worth the $0.50 a batch to see if it cures what ails ya. Chill haze is simply protein dancing with polyphenols/tannins. The only way to prevent it is to either more aggressively cool your wort, filter at around 34 deg or add a clarifier like silica to drop out the proteins. Be careful of too much silica - you can behead your beer...

Gordie
That's not exactly true. It might be what 99% of the folks on this forum do to try and prevent chill haze, but it's more complicated than that at times

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/lets...-inside-80484/

Check out that thread I started and there's a couple links inside if you want to delve into the world of malt analysis and understanding what's in your malt. We all make adjustments to our hop schedule for different AA numbers, so why wouldn't you adjust your mash for different malt profiles???

To the OP: Sorry I don't have all the info just yet, but I'm finding there are many sources available that go deep into this and can help!

Good luck with it!
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