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12-23-2010, 11:24 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Taylor, MI
Posts: 383
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These guys are right, BIAB.
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12-27-2010, 06:13 AM
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#12
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Happiest when brewing
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Natick, MA
Posts: 6,584
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Pulled the stopper/plug out of my cooler earlier (on Sunday) so that I can take it to the hardware store (Lowe's or HD) once the snow storm/blizzard is over, and get the right size fittings to install a ball valve. Since I'm using the BIAB method, I don't think I'll need to install a filter tube/hose/line inside the cooler. I'll just make sure to either use a fitting on the end of the valve (on the 'out' side) so that I can install a run-off and be able to direct the flow better... Planning on testing this over the coming weekend with a brew day (will test it with regular water first, to make sure I don't have any leaks)...
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12-27-2010, 12:09 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Herkimer, NY
Posts: 416
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There is no need for a cooler when you brew in a bag. Lautering is done as you lift the bag from the pot and wring it out.
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12-27-2010, 04:17 PM
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#14
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Happiest when brewing
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Natick, MA
Posts: 6,584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El_Exorcisto
There is no need for a cooler when you brew in a bag. Lautering is done as you lift the bag from the pot and wring it out.
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There is when all you have are 5 gallon pots and use more grain than they can contain (along with the correct amount of water)... After making a mess with my previous batch, I decided that a large cooler was a wise idea. Luckily, I have a 70 quart cooler already, so I really just need to get a ball valve setup for it (will do this week)... Then I'll be able to do the grain amount I want in it (for my 5 gallon batches) without any worries... The brew on the calendar for this coming weekend has about 17 pounds of grain (for a 5 gallon batch)... The brew after that will have less (about 10 pounds of grain)...
I'm thinking about getting a 30-40 quart aluminum pot this week, so that I can do full batch boiling once the sparge is done... Otherwise, I plan to split the mash/sparge water into both pots (as evenly split as possible) and boil there.
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12-27-2010, 04:39 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Herkimer, NY
Posts: 416
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So essentially you will be using the bag as the false bottom in your cooler? Sounds like an interesting approach. Doing it that way you can mash with a "normal" amount of water for better efficiency with adjuncts, then sparge like a normal three-vessel approach. I like it. What are you using for bag material? Cheap mesh seems to be all the rage, but I am having good luck using muslin, and I know that it is food safe.
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12-27-2010, 05:05 PM
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#16
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Happiest when brewing
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Natick, MA
Posts: 6,584
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I'm using a grain bag (about 24" square) that I picked up at my LHBS before I made my last batch. More than large enough for the 11-12 pounds of grain that day. From what I could see, it will also be large enough for the brew I'll be making this coming weekend (about 17 pounds of grain)... I might pick up a second bag this week, just in case. I'm planning on using some butchers twine to tie the bag(s) off, so that I can let it 'float' around inside the cooler.
I just checked the pricing on a 32 qt aluminum stock pot (restaurant supplier I have access to)... I think I'll use my xmas money to pick one up... That should be large enough to do my full boils for the 5 gallon batch sizes... I'll also have enough head space for adding hops and such to the pot... I think the 24 quart will be too small, and the 40 quart (and larger) are really too large for now. I might even sparge right in the pot, then transfer the mash water into it for the boil...
I've ordered my grain (and hops) from FarmHouse Brewing Supply (just placed the order) for the coming brew day, plus the following, and should have at least some grain left over. I'll only need to get a little grain, and yeast, from the LHBS for the coming brewing... I'm also setting up to be able to wash yeast, so that I'll be able to save there.
At this point, I'm not looking to make the cooler a 100% mash tun, so installing just the ball valve assembly, and keeping what I pulled out of it (it unscrewed easily) means I can always convert it back into a dedicated cooler. Or just fill it with ice for when I need to keep things fermenting during the warmer months. Although it could be a tight fit for what I'm fermenting in for the current cooler. I might end up picking up an old fridge to use as a brew chamber during the warmer months (or even cooler ones if I install a heat source in it)...
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12-31-2010, 09:41 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: MADISON, WISCONSIN
Posts: 45
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I just picked up a 35 qt pot (boxed as a turkey frying pot) on sale for $35 at farm & fleet!... can't wait to brew my first a/g batch
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12-31-2010, 09:43 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: MADISON, WISCONSIN
Posts: 45
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Also make shure to read deathbrewers tutorials on partial a/g & stove top all grain, very helpful
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01-01-2011, 12:40 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLLINH
Also make shure to read deathbrewers tutorials on partial a/g & stove top all grain, very helpful
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Agreed, his method of sparging helped me go from ~55% to ~70% efficiency.
In addition, the photos help a lot. DeathBrewer is a saint (Don't know if that's a compliment for him or not). 
__________________
"There is no strong beer, only weak men"
"Pretty women make us BUY beer, ugly women make us DRINK beer" - Al Bundy
"Give a man a beer, he'll drink for a day. Teach a man to brew, he'll be drunk for the rest of his life."
Primary:
Kegged: Burning Bush, Pale Kock, Agave Wit
Bottled: Le Petit, Dancing Hippo
Notable Empties: Oaked Black IIPA, BBK I, Red IIPA, Burning Bush, Apophis "The Destroyer"
On-Deck: Maharaja Clone, The Titan BW, Ale of Olympus
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01-01-2011, 12:40 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 857
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