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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > Madness in my Method?
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:13 PM   #11
Orfy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertBrew
Here ya go. Again, an estimate but kind of cool. Have the hotter/cold water on hand for fine tuning and you'll be great.
-----------------------
ProMash - Dough In Strike Water Calculation

Tun Thermal Mass: 0.000
Total Grain: 8.00 LBS 3.63 kg
Total Water: 12.00 QTS 11.36 Liters
Water/Grain Ratio: 1.50 3.13
Desired Mash Temp: 155.00 F 68.33 C
Grain Temp: 68.00 F 20.00 C
Initial Dough In Strike Water Temp Shoud Be 166.00 Degrees Fahrenheit 74.44 Degrees Celsius
Total Mash Volume: 3.64 GAL 13.78 Liters

Oh yea, and ProMash would be your friend if you stick with AG! Has a default to Metric as well.
Thanks. ( I appreciate the hand holing at this stage, I need it to ged my head straight)
So what's the difference between total water and total mash volume .
(I Presume this doesn't include the water used for the second batch)
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Old 12-02-2005, 09:18 PM   #12
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Total water is all of the water added to your mash (not sparge water), and total mash volume includes the volume added by the grains. They'll absorb some of the mash water, but the total volume will still be greater than just the water.

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Old 12-02-2005, 09:21 PM   #13
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Got it.

So in theory, If I add 3.64 GAL of water to my mash tun and mark the level, thats where 12qts of water and 8lb of grain should come to.


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Old 12-02-2005, 09:26 PM   #14
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In theory

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Old 12-02-2005, 10:05 PM   #15
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orfy, try this for amount of water need. http://www.allaboutbeer.com/homebrew/water.html it's by Ray Danilel's who wrote Designing Great Beers. it's what i use for water calculation. for what it's worth, i use 1.33 quarts per pound of grain.

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Old 12-02-2005, 10:34 PM   #16
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I'm suprised so many people add all the water first.

I was taught and have always done it where you add water and grain sort of at the same time. That way the grain is never too hot.

If you add grain to 170 degree water, then the enzymes needed to mash the grain can be destroyed. I'm sure enough of the enzymes survive to do the conversion, especially with quality American 2-row or something else that converts easily. Still, you could end up with too hot a strike even after adding all the grain...or too cold and you'd need to water it down. If you add both at once, monitoring the temperature as you near the end, you can nail your strike temp by adding more hot or cold water and keep the mash good and thick.

I like my mash as thick as possible, because you get the best yields that way. So, I heat a "lot" of water to 170-172. I add a bit to the mash tun to cover the false bottom. I then add water and grain alternating, while stirring to avoid dry spots. I try to keep it very thick. That usually results in a thick mash that's 150 degrees or so.

If you are starting with 165 degrees and shooting for a strike of 155 degrees, then your mash is going to be too runny IMHO.

Cheers!

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Old 12-02-2005, 10:54 PM   #17
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I'm sure it's been said but ideally you want your two runoffs (if batch sparging) to be about equal. If your post boil volume is 6 gallons, make sure you run off 3 the first time, and 3 the second.

For instance: My typical pre boil volume is 7-8 gallons.

I mash-in with 3 gallons and let it settle at whatever mash temp I had in mind. Typical grain absorption on a 10 pound recipe is 1-1.1 gallons. So I can count on only running off 2.

I'll strike with another 2 gallons @ 191 (calculated in promash) to raise my grainbed to 168. Stir my mash and vourlaf until clear and run off.

This nets me 4 gallons for the first runoff.. or there abouts.

I'll sparge another 4 gallons @ 185ish (to get the grainbed in the 160s).. stir, vourlaf and drain off.

I'll end up with about 7-7.5 in the kettle, I have half a gallon loss in my MT, and another half gallon in my kettle. By the time I boil down 7.5 gallons I'm down to about 5.5, take a half gallon loss in the kettle to get 5 gallons in the fermenter.

This is based on Denny Conn's 'Cheap N Easy Batch Sparging' technique. He's pioneered the way for batch spargers and it seems to work well for me.

http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/

I've still got a few kinks to work out, as my efficiency bounce between the high 60s and mid 70s.

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Old 12-02-2005, 10:56 PM   #18
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For what it's worth, underletting is the way to go as far as filling your MT

I don't do it. no pump.

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Old 12-02-2005, 11:01 PM   #19
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Do you find your efficiency is much better batch sparging than...whatever the regular way is called?

I tend to do the regular "flow" sparging until I get 3/4 of my volume. I then shut off the sparge and add enough hot water to the mash to cover it. I then start heating my kettle. Once it's about 10 degrees shy of boiling, I drain the mash tun into the kettle to collect the remaining 1/4 of my boil volume. The runnings are always much sweeter for a brief period after this "rest".

I haven't bothered to measure my efficiency in a long time...I'm not into that aspect of brewing. But, it does seem to be more efficient to do at least this "hybrid" method of sparging just based on tasting the runnings.

When I first started brewing, no one even talked about batch sparging...

Cheers!

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Old 12-02-2005, 11:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mindflux
For what it's worth, underletting is the way to go as far as filling your MT

I don't do it. no pump.
Meaning add all the grain to the tun and then pump hot water in through the false bottom?

Pump...I've been putting off adding one for many years since I burned out my last one...very handy when they're working, but best not to count on them in my experience
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Oh don't give me none more of that Old Janx Spirit
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Won't you pour me one more of that sinful Old Janx Spirit
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