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05-25-2009, 12:16 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Central KY
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Looking for dry hopping techniques?
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Hop bag or not? Crush or not? Leaf hops instead of Pellets? Before or after racking? Weight in the hop bag or just let it float around?
I know all may be possible, but looking for a consensus?
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Cheers,
redneckbeagle
Last edited by redneckbeagle; 05-25-2009 at 12:19 AM.
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05-25-2009, 12:39 AM
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#2
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Location: Jay, Adirondack Mountains, NY
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Personal preference. I've done all the combinations you named. I like to bag my hops for dry hopping. Reason is that you would typically dry hop for 10 or so days before bottling, so you want a minimum amount of gunk floating around in your bucket/carboy.
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05-25-2009, 01:44 AM
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#3
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big beers turn my gears
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There is no consensus on this subject. Use what works best for you. I have tried many variations and the chosen methods depends on how long I think the keg will last. My favorite way is leaf in a bag tossed into the keg during racking. After one carbonating week, transfer to serving keg leaving the bag behind. Finish carbonating. Results, clear beer, excellent hop aroma without any grassiness from overexposure.
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primary- Tangerine Dream, SWMBO slayer,
serving- amber ale hop experiment #6, Roggenbier, apfelwine
planning- Cru?
conditioning- 9/9/09 barleywine
Drink water?... Never, fish fornicate in it.--- W.C. Fields
Most problems can be solved with the proper application of force.
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05-25-2009, 03:03 AM
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#4
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
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I'm on day 8 of a 10 day dry hop of an IPA I'm doing. I threw pelletized Cascade right into the secondary. My plan is to simply cover the end of my auto-siphon with a bit of sanitized nylon stocking. Hopefully the stocking will catch most of the pieces; if a few little bits make it into the bottles I won't be heartbroken.
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Primary: Edwort's Apfelwein
Primary: Brewingcentres Pale Ale
Primary: Brewcraft - Cheap 'n' Shiddy Bavarian Wheat
Kegged: Brewcraft - Cheap 'n' Shiddy Bavarian Wheat
Kegged: Brewcraft - Enhanced Dutch Lager
On Tap: Brewcraft - Irish Stout
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05-25-2009, 01:06 PM
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#5
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Location: Durham, NH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeamusMac
I'm on day 8 of a 10 day dry hop of an IPA I'm doing. I threw pelletized Cascade right into the secondary. My plan is to simply cover the end of my auto-siphon with a bit of sanitized nylon stocking. Hopefully the stocking will catch most of the pieces; if a few little bits make it into the bottles I won't be heartbroken.
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+1
I've done this for several batches of IPA and the results are pretty good. Just make sure to use a good sized piece of nylon otherwise the flow will slowly come to a halt..I use about a 3" (unstretched) section knotted at one end and rubber-banded to the output end of the hose.
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06-12-2011, 08:48 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Santa Cruz, California
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Hi,
On a related note, I just brewed a Rye P.A. yesterday. I'm headed out of town for three weeks on Wednesday and wondering how to approach this...?
A. Rack to secondary before I leave and let the dry hop sit longer than I'd like to.
B. Let it set in primary until I get home and dry hop for a week then.
C. Forget about dry hopping, bottle when I get home, and think ahead before brewing my next batch.
Any advice appreciated.
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06-12-2011, 09:46 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
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Location: Colora, Maryland
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I rack the beer to a secondary 5 gallon carboy. I usually dry hop with pellets. I just dump them into the secondary for about a week. Then I cold crash the carboy for about 3 days and then rack to a keg. Works great for me.
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06-12-2011, 09:53 PM
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#8
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Frau Administrator
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Location: Upper Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanmac831
Hi,
On a related note, I just brewed a Rye P.A. yesterday. I'm headed out of town for three weeks on Wednesday and wondering how to approach this...?
A. Rack to secondary before I leave and let the dry hop sit longer than I'd like to.
B. Let it set in primary until I get home and dry hop for a week then.
C. Forget about dry hopping, bottle when I get home, and think ahead before brewing my next batch.
Any advice appreciated.
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"B" is the better choice. I like to dryhop for only about 5-7 days (sometimes as long as 10 if I have to) right before bottling.
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Broken Leg Brewery
Giving beer a leg to stand on since 2006
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06-12-2011, 11:53 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Carmel, IN
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A nylon steeping sack works very well for dry hopping. You can boil it to sanitize, it has very fine mesh, its big and can hold a good hop charge, and its usually big enough to allow me to just tie off the opening and drop the sack in the fermenter. I adhere to Matt Brynlson's dry hopping approach of relatively short dry hop contact time of about 4 days then rack off the hops into the keg.
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06-15-2011, 04:47 AM
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#10
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Location: Portlandia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammy71
I rack the beer to a secondary 5 gallon carboy. I usually dry hop with pellets. I just dump them into the secondary for about a week. Then I cold crash the carboy for about 3 days and then rack to a keg. Works great for me.
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what if you dont have the facilities to cold crash?
ive got a pale ale in primary now that Id like to dry hop. Im going to keg, and the beer is for a party on the 23rd of july.. im thinking that I have enough time to dry hop prior to racking to keg, but if I wanted to dry hop in keg...do I rack to keg without pressure for a few days to dry hop, remove the bag, and then gas the keg up.. or do you just leave the hops in there for serving?
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