Immersion chiller flow speed?

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subourbonite

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This is a really dumb question, but what kind of flow should I be looking for when using my IC? I've only had it for one batch thus far, and I really cranked the water up - and it took almost as long as an ice bath to cool down to pitching temp (40+ minutes). My tap water is around 65 degrees. Should I be constricting the flow more in order to maximize heat absorption? Maybe use a pre-chiller? I'm at a loss here...
 
My ground water is a bit cooler, but I typically use ten gallons of water to chill a batch. Higher flow rates don't make much difference, the limit is conduction through the tube wall.
 
Stir your wort while chilling and adjust the flow so you get tepid water exiting the chiller. You want the water to give up as much cold as possible to the wort to maximize chilling. If you run the water wide open and get only really cold water out you have a lot of wasted energy there.
 
I also find that 'bouncing' the chiller up and down (no slpashing) helps too.

With the price of copper as it is, a recirculation pump in ice water would be a better investment than a pre-chiller. This what I will probably add to my equipment next.
 
I'd second stirring your wort. You need to keep it from stratifying (cooler wort by the coil, hotter away from the coil. Keep it moving and run the cooling water full bore. At tap water that cool, you should hit 70F in less than 15 minutes.
 
Lil' Sparky said:
Are you stirring your wort while you're chilling? It makes a big difference.

I've gone from picking up brew pot and moving it around to this. It makes a HUGE difference to keep the wort moving over the IC.

I can't attach the file because it's too big or something. Go to my gallery & I have 2 pics of it.

It's a gear motor turning at 290 rpm. I had the shaft and impeller made.

Good luck and keep the wort moving.
 
I used to have problems with the amount of time it took to collect my wort as well. I was using a CF chiller 3/8 copper coil. The flow was so slow it drove me nuts.

I have since moved on to using the therminator. Now I can collect ten gallons of wort in about 6 to 7 minutes. I am still using gravity, no need for a pump at this point. Another thing that is nice about this device is the efficiency. It can chill my wort about 2 deg. above chill water temp. Since I started using the therminator, the quality of my beer has gone up considerably. Just thought I would throw it out there.
 
bradsul said:
Stir your wort while chilling and adjust the flow so you get tepid water exiting the chiller. You want the water to give up as much cold as possible to the wort to maximize chilling. If you run the water wide open and get only really cold water out you have a lot of wasted energy there.


I am about to use my IC for the first time and I was wondering about stirring. Do you need to cover the pot in between stirring? Or is it just constant stirring in order to get the temp down fast and not worry about it being exposed?

subourbonite- sorry to thread-jack
 
I used to stir just often enough to keep the wort moving over the coils. Not with a huge amount of speed but not too slow either. I always put the lid on between stirring personally.

I also always used to drop my spoon into starsan while I waited between stirring sessions just in case, again I'm not sure if it was necessary but I had it sitting there anyway.
 
I stir occasionally to help speed up the process and cover between stirrings. I usually use this time for clean up with the hot water that first comes out of the chiller, so I don't want to spend the entire time sitting over the pot stirring. Jamil from the "Jamil show" created a whirlpool using a recirculating pump and a piece of copper tubing to direct the input flow in a circular pattern. Claims it cools much faster than other methods.
Craig
 
So say you were to use a pump to recirculate ice water, what kind of GPH would you look for?

I see a very cheap one at Home Depot for ~$20, 60 GPH. I'd say that 1 gallon/minute is way under the flow I use from the hose.
 
CBBaron is actually talking about recirculating the wort with a March pump but you CAN pump icewater through an IC with a cheaper pond pump...

Except you'll NEVER get the flow rate they claim on the box. That's best case scenario, no hose attached, you might get that flow out of the nipple. Add some hose, the whole length of the chiller, any rise in height (head) and you'd be lucky to get 1/10th of the rated flow. Go with something around 200 GPH.
 
Bobby_M said:
CBBaron is actually talking about recirculating the wort with a March pump but you CAN pump icewater through an IC with a cheaper pond pump...

Except you'll NEVER get the flow rate they claim on the box. That's best case scenario, no hose attached, you might get that flow out of the nipple. Add some hose, the whole length of the chiller, any rise in height (head) and you'd be lucky to get 1/10th of the rated flow. Go with something around 200 GPH.

Yeah, I have seen Jamil's whirlpool chiller, I wish I was considering this :p .

Anyone here use a submersible pump to pump cold water through the IC? I think something like this will be my next brewing equipment buy.

If I put this in ice water how cold do you think I can chill the wort?
 
I just finish using a 240 gph pond pump. Took 20 minutes to get from 95 F to 55 F (actual wort temp)

Better than I've ever done, but that 50' of 3/8" tubing made an ass out of that pump.

I recirculated the IC output water back to the ice bucket. This part seemed to make a lot of sense.

I'm off to get closer to a 500 gph pump. I think moving iced water through a 50' 3/8" IC as fast as possible is the way to go.

(I go from boiling to 100 F in 10 minutes with 90 F tap water)

Will report back.
 
Brewer3401 said:
I just finish using a 240 gph pond pump. Took 20 minutes to get from 95 F to 55 F (actual wort temp)

Better than I've ever done, but that 50' of 3/8" tubing made an ass out of that pump.

I recirculated the IC output water back to the ice bucket. This part seemed to make a lot of sense.

I'm off to get closer to a 500 gph pump. I think moving iced water through a 50' 3/8" IC as fast as possible is the way to go.

(I go from boiling to 100 F in 10 minutes with 90 F tap water)

Will report back.

If you are looking to maintain the pressure through smaller tubing, you will want to get a pump with a high head pressure (the height the pump can push and maintain water vertically). A high GPH is good but if it has a low head pressure, it will crap out when pushing liquid through a smaller diameter. i.e a 100GPH 20' HP pump will put more pressure out then a 200GPH pump with 10' HP. A higher head pressure would also be better due to the fact that most of the immersion wort coolers are generally pretty tall and unless the pump is located above the cooler, it will have to work harder to get the liquid flowing.

A workaround of course would be to use a pump that has a 3/8" ID output, this will help maintain a steady and constant flow/pressure through the line. Aquarium pumps are a good example.

If the water is coming out cold, it is moving too fast for the heat transfer to occur, it should come out warm, maybe slightly warmer then ambient.

I'm not going to lie and say I have any experience with immersion wort chillers, because I do not (complete HB noobie), however I do have about 6 years experience watercooling computers and the same rules apply.

A simple closed loop with pump--> chiller--> large bucket of ice water, would be very simple to make. The most efficent would probably be using 1/2" ID copper and plastic tubing, although that corragated copper tubing looks very promising also (more surface area in contact with the wort).
 
Whiskey® said:
If you are looking to maintain the pressure through smaller tubing, you will want to get a pump with a high head pressure (the height the pump can push and maintain water vertically). A high GPH is good but if it has a low head pressure, it will crap out when pushing liquid through a smaller diameter. i.e a 100GPH 20' HP pump will put more pressure out then a 200GPH pump with 10' HP. A higher head pressure would also be better due to the fact that most of the immersion wort coolers are generally pretty tall and unless the pump is located above the cooler, it will have to work harder to get the liquid flowing.

A workaround of course would be to use a pump that has a 3/8" ID output, this will help maintain a steady and constant flow/pressure through the line. Aquarium pumps are a good example.

If the water is coming out cold, it is moving too fast for the heat transfer to occur, it should come out warm, maybe slightly warmer then ambient.

I'm not going to lie and say I have any experience with immersion wort chillers, because I do not (complete HB noobie), however I do have about 6 years experience watercooling computers and the same rules apply.

A simple closed loop with pump--> chiller--> large bucket of ice water, would be very simple to make. The most efficent would probably be using 1/2" ID copper and plastic tubing, although that corragated copper tubing looks very promising also (more surface area in contact with the wort).

Good thoughts - thanks. I'll remember to verify about the HP.
 
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