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Old 02-02-2012, 01:43 AM   #1
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Default I need help bailing out of this SNAFU

The low-down: I'm playing with yeast so I can better learn their characteristics and flavor profiles. So I set up a super simple experiment: brew a really, really easy SMaSH with extract (I usually brew AG), split it into two carboys, pitch different yeasts, and maintain the same conditions for each batch throughout the entire process.

I ****ed this up from the beginning but here's the problem: The batches (4 gals each) not only don't have the same OG but the OG would be really low even if they shared the OG of the heavier one. I shoulda come in at 1.048 and I came in at 1.042 on one and 1.028 on the other. I thought i had mixed them well but apparently not. Unless.....my gravity readings were from the warmer wort at the top of the carboy, a phenomenon particularly pronounced when adding top up water, something I haven't had to do in a really long time since I haven't brewed an extract batch in over a year. Now the questions:

1) When is it too late to take an OG reading? Remember: I already pitched the yeast.

2) Should I have more vigorously shaken the wort after adding the top up water before taking the OG reading? I was thinking this would just add more trub to my sample.

3) Is there a way to more effectively mix the contents of two carboys in the absence of a container large enough to hold both of their contents?

4a) Is it advisable to boil up some DME tomorrow and add that to each batch? (Four gallons of 3.2% beer does not sound like a lot of fun.)

4b) If I do, does that mean I can't ever really know the OG since the yeast has already been pitched?

4c) Too much ABV is better than too little, right?

Alright fellow homebrewers, I throw myself at your mercy. Please save me.


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Old 02-02-2012, 02:58 AM   #2
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Uhmmm, it will be beer.

My yeast experiment:http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/my-wife-likes-blondes-176150/index4.html

If you are looking to taste the differences between yeasts, I would have made a 10 gallon batch, mixed the wort well to all the same OG, then split it into (5) 2 Gal batches.

I pour my wort back and forth between HDPE buckets to mix it while it is still warm. This also aerates it.
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:05 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Dynachrome View Post
Uhmmm, it will be beer.
Gosh, I never disputed that.

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Originally Posted by Dynachrome View Post
If you are looking to taste the differences between yeasts, I would have made a 10 gallon batch, mixed the wort well to all the same OG, then split it into (5) 2 Gal batches.
Uhmmm, that's what I was trying to do (though two 4 gallon batches were necessary for the carboys I have)

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I pour my wort back and forth between HDPE buckets to mix it while it is still warm. This also aerates it.
Maybe this is what I should've done. So thanks for that.
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:14 AM   #4
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1 - I would think the first 6 - 8 hrs (up to 24 hrs depending on yeast strain and quantity pitched) after pitching would give you a reasonably close OG to that of the actual OG

2 - Not knowing how hard you shook it... idk. Become familiar with the concept of Gravity Units (GU's) (read Designing Great Beers) and you can take accurate pre-top-off water readings of your OG and then add water. Unless I'm mistaken, I though trub did not necessarily affect gravity readings. something about soluble vs insoluble material in the wort.

3 - Are you talking about combining the separately yeasted batches back together? doesn't that defeat the purpose of the experiment?

4 - (a)Of course it's feasible. A lot of homebrewers brewing Belgian style ales will add candy syrup or sugar during or towards the end of fermentation. I'm not sure if it's advisable though, especially if you don't know your true OG. Remember, there should be a balance of IBU and gravity. (b)If you knew the OG, you could calculate how much more gravity you were adding with the DME. (c)Not always. Ultimately, you want a balanced beer. There's nothing wrong with brewing a more sessionable version of beers - it just means you can drink more.

Cheers!
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:22 AM   #5
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You will never be able to measure the OG of wort that is comprised of two different liquids mixed together post boil without encountering that problem. I have to split anything over 3 gallons between two pots and I will vouch from experience that this is the case. I take equal volumes from each pot, put them together, and measure that to get around it.

Open up your carboy and look for krausen. No krausen? You can probably get an accurate reading. Do it anyway. Although I think you may encounter the same problem of different densities. Seriously, cooled worts of different densities are like oil and water.

Can you add more DME? Hell yes. One time I forgot to add half the fermentables for a recipe. I added some DME and water the next day. That beer went on to win a medal at a big comp.
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:24 AM   #6
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Sometimes you just have ride these perceived mistakes out and see what happens.

My advice would be to take readings from each every 2-3 days and record your results. This will give u the chance to see if your readings level out, which yeast ferments faster, and which finishes first.

Next time if you brew another extract for this experiment, brew a concentrated batch and your division will be easier to manage.

Work with what u have and make your experiment work for the variables present.
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:57 AM   #7
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You will never be able to measure the OG of wort that is comprised of two different liquids mixed together post boil without encountering that problem.
Yep...lesson learned. I could see the separation caused by the temperature strata.

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Open up your carboy and look for krausen. No krausen? You can probably get an accurate reading. Do it anyway. Although I think you may encounter the same problem of different densities. Seriously, cooled worts of different densities are like oil and water.
I shook the **** out of them this time and then let them resettle before measuring. I had two really nice starters ready so the first signs of fermentation began appearing very quickly but it's only been a few hours. The OGs actually came closer together. Still too low (1.044 and 1.036), though.

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Can you add more DME? Hell yes. One time I forgot to add half the fermentables for a recipe. I added some DME and water the next day. That beer went on to win a medal at a big comp.
I used a similar AG version of this recipe for a Honey Pilsner that was frickin' awesome so I guess I actually knew the answer to this question since I always add honey after ferm has started. The question now then is how do I calculate how much to add to achieve my target OG now that I know my actual OG?

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Originally Posted by E-Mursed View Post
Sometimes you just have ride these perceived mistakes out and see what happens.

My advice would be to take readings from each every 2-3 days and record your results. This will give u the chance to see if your readings level out, which yeast ferments faster, and which finishes first.


Work with what u have and make your experiment work for the variables present.
This is great advice. Thank you.

Part of my problem is the damage to my ego. I'm not exactly a noob. I feel pretty damned stupid having made so many errors. But a very important lesson was learned. I need to be careful every time I brew and never again take things like process, technique, and measurements for granted.
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Old 02-02-2012, 04:00 AM   #8
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here's an article I found related to taking an OG reading that I found helpful. I provide for anyone who finds this thread searching for similar info: http://www.byo.com/stories/wizard/article/section/121-mr-wizard/1642-whats-the-best-way-to-take-an-accurate-original-specific-gravity-reading
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Old 02-05-2012, 05:58 PM   #9
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SNAFU

Some New Adventures Fixing Unhappiness.

I've done a few things brewing I will never intentionally duplicate.


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