canyonbrewer

Recipes 

do you cover with lid during the steep? also...are you recirculating during the steep?

SurlyBrew

Recipes 

Love this thread! Some great discussion here, lets keep it going!

I was thinking about doing a 2 oz flame out addition with some Falconers Flight, and whirlpooling it for 30 mins or so. Giving it the occasional stir and letting it sit with the lid on before cooling. I also plan on dry hopping with another 2 oz of this hop type as well. I love hops and hop aroma. Hope this works well!

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Primary: Chinook/Simcoe Black IPA, Scottish Wee Heavy

Bottled: Dunkelweizen, Caribou Slobber Ale, Smooth Nut Brown Ale, Surly Furious Clone, Amarillo Pale Ale, Falconers Flight IPA, Citra Pale Ale (Award Winner), Blue Moon Clone, Simcoe/Citra/Amarillo Pale Ale, English India Pale Ale, Cream ale, Liberty Cream ale, 2012 Harvest Ale, Dog Fish Head 60 Min, Cream of Three Crops

Kegged: KarmaCitra Pale Ale, Land Down Under Pale Ale (Motueka, Nelson Sauvin, & Aus Galaxy hops)

MacGruber

Recipes 

I just read the article on using Late Addition Hops only. Check out www.mrmalty.com . I'm a big fan of smooth (medium) bitterness, huge hop flavor, and huge hop aroma. I'll be making an IPA with a BASIC grain bill and US-05 this weekend and will be using a blend of Amarillo and Simcoe hops at 20, 10, and 5 only. I'll post my results in a few weeks.

CraigT

Recipes 

This sounds like something I may try on my next pale or ipa. But one thing i was reading about recently and was wondering about is dms not being boiled off during the hop steep. Does nobody worry about this because the hop flavor will cover any off flavor? Or do most people not really worry about dms at all. I never had notice any dms type favors in my 25 brews before I ever heard of it.

shortyjacobs

Recipes 

DMS precursors should be long gone by the end of a 60 minute boil, (90 min if you are using pilsner malt!), so no worries there.

I'd forgotten about this thread up until I saw it revived today. Just want to say, I've been doing 10-30 min recircs after flameout before chilling since I first read this, sometimes first chilling to 190 and holding it there for 10-30 min, sometimes just letting it sit hot at 210 (down to about 195 after 20 min). With all of them, I think I'm getting much better hop aroma than if I had started chilling immediately.

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Itchy Dog Brewery.

(As of 10-24-2011)
Primary - Steppe 112 PA, 2x Monday RyePA
Aging - None :-(
On tap - Big Dog, Apfelwein, Steppe 112 PA

My invisible AG sculpture, with no actual sculpture and a tiny footprint.
My Kegerator goes offroading!
My Coors Home Draft dispenser for boating/beering on the go.

markg388

Recipes 

yep, me too. ipas have been just perfect.

Lennie

Recipes 

Sounds good. You guys baggng your hops or using a hop spider? I just wonder if the difference might be less pronounced when adding pellets loose. Although if its like tea, theres a difference between steeping vs boiling.

shortyjacobs

Recipes 

I'm using loose pellets, and the difference is definitely noticeable. The extended whirlpool after flameout also helps to collect the hops in the center.

__________________
Itchy Dog Brewery.

(As of 10-24-2011)
Primary - Steppe 112 PA, 2x Monday RyePA
Aging - None :-(
On tap - Big Dog, Apfelwein, Steppe 112 PA

My invisible AG sculpture, with no actual sculpture and a tiny footprint.
My Kegerator goes offroading!
My Coors Home Draft dispenser for boating/beering on the go.

bobbrews

Recipes 

I will comment on the science of this…

Hops have many specific aromatic contributors that can favorably affect a beer’s aroma if utilized properly. The most important contributor when it comes to delivering that blast hop aroma is a hydrocarbon compound known as myrcene.

Myrcene is an important part of the essential aromatic oils in hops. Perfumeries frequently harness its power. And commercial American IPA brewers strongly favor hefty late and dryhop additions of high level myrcene hops like Citra, Amarillo, Simcoe, Centennial, Nugget, US Northern Brewer, and Horizon. Other hops like Columbus, Summit, Galaxy, and Chinook have moderately high amounts myrcene while still having very high total oil levels. The interesting thing about hops like these is that despite having high total oil levels and high myrcene, these hops tend to have low levels of caryophyllene, humulene, farnesene, and selinene. The opposite is true for European Noble hops which have low total oils, low myrcene, and moderately high levels of everything else.

Myrcene is highly volatile and subject to heat and oxidation. Thus it is found at very low levels when used early in the boil, but the levels are much higher during mid flameout and dryhop. A 60 minute hop stand during mid flameout (anywhere between 100-150 F) have provided the best results for me. This is easily attained by using a slow-cooling ice bath as opposed to a fast cooling wort chiller. I do this in my stainless steel sink, which covers the kettle about 3/4 of the way with ice-water. It quickly melts so you really need to keep re-icing to realistically cool it in one hour. Don't be afraid of adding ice. The kettle will be primarily covered to aid sanitation (aside from 2 or 3 short whirlpools). A covered kettle is necessary after the boil, but it retains a ton of heat.

I’m so glad I did not buy a wort chiller because I would have never stumbled on the benefits of a long hop stand, which has given me insane hop aroma. I always couple a long hop stand with a substantial dryhop at the rate of 0.50 to 1.00 ounce hops per gallon of beer (0.65 average), depending on gravity, time, and technique of the brewer. So both techniques in combination have really worked to wow me and my friends.

As with most other aspects of hop quality, there is a difference between whole hops and pellets as well. Whole hops can have as much as 70% more myrcene than pellets of the same variety, but that difference is flipped when the wort is hopped as only 5% of myrcene is extracted from whole hops compared to 17% from pellets. This is why I prefer pellets for flameout and dryhop additions. Pellets also release more of their oils in a shorter time frame. However, I try to stick with leaf hops during the boil because their quality is typically better since it cannot be masked through processing like pellet hops.

In closing, you're really looking for the following:

*High hop oil content
*High myrcene
*Low levels of the other Noble hop compounds
*Long hop stand between 100-150 F
*Using pellet hops late
*Using a slow-working ice bath with a couple whirlpools
*Implementing a substantial dryhop in combo with long hop stand

AngerManagement

Recipes 

I haven't tried the long hop stand, having just tried no-chill for the first time the other night on my latest batch. But I do know that substantial amounts of dry hops makes a big difference; I used 4 oz in my last 5-gal batch of pale ale. The result was orgasmic.

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Gold medal winning brewer, 2012 Great Arizona Homebrew Competition