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Old 03-12-2014, 01:49 AM   #1
salty_dog_68
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Default How to: dry hopping??

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I tried dry hopping an IPA for the first time using 1 oz of fuggle leaf hops and a muslin bag. I fermented in a bucket/primary for two weeks and then racked over the hops in a carboy. It was a pain in the a$$ to get the bag in the carboy(and I probably contaminated the batch...even though I washed my hands very well before the ordeal). So, my question is how do you get the hop bag in to the fermenter? Or Is it best to dry hop in a bucket? Thanks in advance.


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Old 03-12-2014, 01:54 AM   #2
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I dry hop in a bucket, but I also hate carboys and won't use them or even own one. This is one of the many reasons. The cons far outweigh the pros of a carboy

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Old 03-12-2014, 01:57 AM   #3
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I just throw my dry hops in primary. I do not have hazing issues, and there is no hop matter in the keg (or bottles if you bottle) because I cold crash. I would recommend getting a super cheap dorm fridge that you can fit your primary bucket in, throwing the dry hops in there, and cold crashing after 4-5 days. Leave it in the fridge to for 24-72 hours and you'll have delicious, clear, dry hopped beer without worrying about the bag!

I am one of those on this forum who strongly feel that secondary for homebrewer is almost never necessary - only on very high gravity beers that need extended aging (< months). So throw them in, cold crash, and enjoy!


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Old 03-12-2014, 01:59 AM   #4
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I put the hops right into the carboy without a bag. I did the bag thing once and it wasn't worth doing again. Putting the hops straight into the carboy makes it a little more difficult to siphon out and clean but I prefer not to force the bag into the carboy opening.

I figure, by the time you have jammed the bag of hops through the hole you have already broken down the hops to the point were particles can get out making the process somewhat pointless (minus the siphoning easier).

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Old 03-12-2014, 02:02 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewWNC View Post
I put the hops right into the carboy without a bag. I did the bag thing once and it wasn't worth doing again. Putting the hops straight into the carboy makes it a little more difficult to siphon out and clean but I prefer not to force the bag into the carboy opening.



I figure, by the time you have jammed the bag of hops through the hole you have already broken down the hops to the point were particles can get out making the process somewhat pointless (minus the siphoning easier).

True. Another method is instead if bagging hops, bag the siphon - tie a bag or Some stainless steel mesh around the end of your racking cane or auto siphon, and you'll leave nearly all the hops behind. I still think cold crashing is better for many other reasons which you can find on here, but either method will work for filtering out unbagged dry hops.


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Old 03-12-2014, 02:04 AM   #6
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I was given this piece of advice by the gentleman at my local HBS. I have not tried it yet, but plan to when I brew my next ipa or apa.

He said to add the hops to your primary fermenter when it is done fermenting. Leave it there for no more than 3 days then rack over to secondary for aging and cold crashing. He said by dry hoping this way you will eliminate the piney flavor that often comes with dry hopping for too long.

Like I said... I haven't tried yet but I know that on previous IPAs I've made I let dry hop a week or longer (because I was out of town) and the piney flavor was very predominant.






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Old 03-12-2014, 02:13 AM   #7
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Default How to: dry hopping??

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Originally Posted by budonze View Post
I was given this piece of advice by the gentleman at my local HBS. I have not tried it yet, but plan to when I brew my next ipa or apa.

He said to add the hops to your primary fermenter when it is done fermenting. Leave it there for no more than 3 days then rack over to secondary for aging and cold crashing. He said by dry hoping this way you will eliminate the piney flavor that often comes with dry hopping for too long.

Like I said... I haven't tried yet but I know that on previous IPAs I've made I let dry hop a week or longer (because I was out of town) and the piney flavor was predominant.

Most people describe a grassy flavor when dry hops are left in too long. Piney flavors come from specific types of hops (chinook, simcoe, Columbus, etc). Most people agree that 5-7 days is fine. I usually keep it to 4-5 days, but don't freak out about 3 days.

Regarding secondary: does not help clarity. It actually takes longer for the beer to clear if you move it. Think about it - beer clears from the top down. If you let it stay in primary, it'll clear. If you rack to secondary (and therefore mix all of the beer up by siphoning into a new container) it'll ruin all that clarifying that has already happened! How silly! And it's not like the particles are like "damn there's too much sediment at the bottom of this bucket, better stay in suspension." No. So leave it in primary if you want it to clear faster. Also, leaving it in primary you aren't introducing unnecessary oxygen, possible contamination from the auto siphon, the tubing, or the secondary fermenter itself, or anything else. Cold crashing will work of course in either primary or secondary, but remember that if you mix all the beer up by moving it to secondary and then cold crash it, it'll take longer. Just throw the partially cleared primary fermenter into the fridge and cold crash that. It'll clear much more quickly, be more convenient, be less oxidized, etc. there are virtually zero advantages to secondary (excepting long term aging, like more than 2-3 months, and even then it's debatable!).



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Old 03-12-2014, 02:31 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salty_dog_68 View Post
Attachment 185224

I tried dry hopping an IPA for the first time using 1 oz of fuggle leaf hops and a muslin bag. I fermented in a bucket/primary for two weeks and then racked over the hops in a carboy. It was a pain in the a$$ to get the bag in the carboy(and I probably contaminated the batch...even though I washed my hands very well before the ordeal). So, my question is how do you get the hop bag in to the fermenter? Or Is it best to dry hop in a bucket? Thanks in advance.


The object of life is not to arrive at the grave intact and with a well preserved body...but rather to skid in sideways, beaten up and broken down, screaming, "holy ****! What a ride!"
Look in to the Big Mouth Bubbler. Perfect for dry hoping and such. Basically a carboy with a wide mouth like a bucket.

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Old 03-16-2014, 01:59 PM   #9
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+1 using muslin bag on the siphon. I am going to dry hop this next batch (a heady topper clone) in primary for 4 days, transfer to secondary to next dry hop, and then after 4 days cold crash and into the keg. The muslin bag and cold crashing keeps a lot of gunk out of the beer.

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Old 03-16-2014, 02:31 PM   #10
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Just dump the hops in the primary. I've tried all of the above methods and they aren't worth the extra hassle. Having the hops swim free seems to produce better aroma IMHO.

Of course I am assuming you have the ability to cold crash, at least to some extent.

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