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Old 12-29-2011, 04:01 AM   #11
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I rarely dry hop in the fermenters any longer, preferring to use a 3" tea infuser ball filled 1/2 full (to allow for expansion) of pellet hops, then added directly to the keg. Amazing aromas and minimal sediment. Of course, if you bottle this won't be of much help.

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Old 10-06-2012, 02:10 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by bottlebomber View Post
Its a great idea, and has become standard operating procedure. When you think about it, what astringency could you possibly extract that boiling them for an hour wouldn't? I just did this with 4 ounces a few weeks ago, and the beer is amazing.
Oxidation and infection both seem like possibilities.
Granted its a small amount of beer, but increased splashing and handling it makes me nervous.
I've been going straight pellets into the carboy and SS teaballs for keg hops. I don't use much leaf, but I use them the same way (nylon bag instead of teaball for keg).
I just suck up whatever hop sludge with the racking cane necessary during racking and pull a sample every day while carbonating to clear the sediment. I may start using gelatin or give the bag over the racking cane a try though since I am finding I like hop flavor but not hops in suspension.

The hard part is multi-phase dry hop schedules where you are supposed to remove additions, I tend to do the first phase in carboy (64f for 5-14 days) then cold crash and keg then do the second phase in keg @ 36f for the life of the keg.
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Old 10-06-2012, 08:37 AM   #13
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Just my $0.02, but I've always tossed dry hop pellets or whole cones directly into the primary after the beer has dropped bright for a 5-7 days and then packaged. I am not a careful racker and have never had an issue.

Please to enjoy this anecdotal evidence.

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Old 01-08-2013, 11:31 PM   #14
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If using a nylon bag over the auto-siphon do I still need to cold crash?

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Old 01-09-2013, 12:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopHeady
If using a nylon bag over the auto-siphon do I still need to cold crash?
Cold crashing doesn't help with hop debris, it's for getting excess yeast and protein to drop, the size of which is much smaller than the holes in your nylon filter. Cold crashing lets you take clearer beer to the bottle, resulting in cleaner bottles of homebrew. It is always a worthwhile step.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:19 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bottlebomber View Post
Cold crashing doesn't help with hop debris[...]
Totally wrong. Period. End o' story...

Cheers though!
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:39 AM   #17
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Well now I'm more confused

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Old 01-10-2013, 02:51 AM   #18
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Well now I'm more confused
Welcome to threads about hops. Mysteriously wonderful plants.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:54 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bottlebomber View Post
Its a great idea, and has become standard operating procedure. When you think about it, what astringency could you possibly extract that boiling them for an hour wouldn't? I just did this with 4 ounces a few weeks ago, and the beer is amazing.
BB - check out this thread discussing this very topic....I'd be curious to hear more of your thoughts/experience.

I concluded through very unscientific tests that I didn't like squeezing the dry hop bag, but I'd love to be challenged on that.
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:37 AM   #20
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I bought some polyester sheer fabric at the fabric store and sewed up a few sausage-shaped hop bags, about an inch wide and about 16 inches long. When dry hopping, I put a few glass marbles into the polyester sausages, followed by up to about 2 ounces of pellet hops, and then a few more marbles before closing them off with a sanitized rubber band. They are easy going in, but require a bit of maneuvering to remove after racking. This has worked out well for me, although I don't think it would be very easy loading the sausage-bags with whole hops.

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