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Old 03-11-2014, 02:35 AM   #11
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I've had promising results cooling down to 125 (post boil) and doing a whirlpool for about 20 min. To get the temp down quickly in the post boil I recirculate through my plate chiller with the cooling water on as usual, when I get down to temp I just turn the cooling water off and continue to recirculate through the plate chiller; the temp will stay pretty stable, its worked out fine the couple of times I've tried it. The hop flavor is very good, its not as intense as dry hopping but it lasts the duration of the keg. Since I'm down at 125 I don't adjust for any additional bittering, there might be a little but it would be negligible. I tried this on a beer I've brewed several times so I had a good idea of the differences. I think I'll try the next one at 150 to see what it tastes like.

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Old 03-11-2014, 03:35 AM   #12
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I've had promising results cooling down to 125 (post boil) and doing a whirlpool for about 20 min. To get the temp down quickly in the post boil I recirculate through my plate chiller with the cooling water on as usual, when I get down to temp I just turn the cooling water off and continue to recirculate through the plate chiller; the temp will stay pretty stable, its worked out fine the couple of times I've tried it. The hop flavor is very good, its not as intense as dry hopping but it lasts the duration of the keg. Since I'm down at 125 I don't adjust for any additional bittering, there might be a little but it would be negligible. I tried this on a beer I've brewed several times so I had a good idea of the differences. I think I'll try the next one at 150 to see what it tastes like.
Interesting. Never read anything about sub 170f additions. Most of the whirlpool/hop stand techniques call for temps around 170/180f. Not doubting it. But if you could do it, it would be awesome to brew the same beer with different hop stand temps and durations to see what happens. I guess I would assume you'd extract a good amt of aroma but maybe not much flavor at sub 170 ?





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Old 03-11-2014, 10:35 AM   #13
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If you don't do a 60 minute addition, and instead do 15 minute additions, you will need twice as many hops to achieve the same bitterness, which will give you a much stronger hop flavor, which will affect the balance of the beer. (as well as require an extra ounce or two of hops).

Has anyone had experience doing this that they would be kind enough to share?
I do this all the time. I do a 20 minute addition. There will not be any sharpness to the bitterness so stick to the 60 if you like the bite. I do it nearly every time with my APAs or single hop experiments
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:43 PM   #14
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Interesting. Never read anything about sub 170f additions. Most of the whirlpool/hop stand techniques call for temps around 170/180f. Not doubting it. But if you could do it, it would be awesome to brew the same beer with different hop stand temps and durations to see what happens. I guess I would assume you'd extract a good amt of aroma but maybe not much flavor at sub 170 ?

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Brewed yesterday and whirlpooled for 30 minutes starting at 136 (wanted to start at 140 but in the 10 seconds it took me to shut water off plate chiller it chilled past that point). Think it dropped another 8 degrees by the end. Going to do a double dry hop as well and am anxious to see how much aroma the IPA has.


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Old 03-31-2014, 02:39 AM   #15
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Brewed yesterday and whirlpooled for 30 minutes starting at 136 (wanted to start at 140 but in the 10 seconds it took me to shut water off plate chiller it chilled past that point). Think it dropped another 8 degrees by the end. Going to do a double dry hop as well and am anxious to see how much aroma the IPA has.


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Old 03-31-2014, 02:41 PM   #16
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Thanks for putting this together KC. Very interesting that some are happy with <170F hopstands. I was not, but I am after bigger flavor not aroma. Stirring has made the largest impact on my hopstand over duration, temps, or pH. The first few I did I just chucked the hops in and just let em sit in fear of evaporation of the volatiles. After even an hour, the hops remained on the surface. Now I get a crazy whirlpool going before I add them and repeat every 5 minutes and they remain in suspension after the first 5 minutes.

Strangely enough, it has been suggested that the yeast strain may actually play a more important role in achieving what I am after.

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Old 03-31-2014, 10:02 PM   #17
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I've done some lower end hop stands as well (around 140 or so). I had one do quite well in a competition, but it had stands at other temperatures as well (the recipe is in my recipes if anyone is interested). I also did one where I brewed 10 gallons. Did a hop stand at flameout, drained off 5 gallons, dropped the temp to 130 (over shot the temp) and did another stand on the other half. Honestly, the beers were nearly identical and I may have only noticed a difference because I was looking for one. I should have done a bling triangle tasting to see if there really was a decreeable difference.

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Old 03-31-2014, 10:16 PM   #18
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I've done some lower end hop stands as well (around 140 or so). I had one do quite well in a competition, but it had stands at other temperatures as well (the recipe is in my recipes if anyone is interested). I also did one where I brewed 10 gallons. Did a hop stand at flameout, drained off 5 gallons, dropped the temp to 130 (over shot the temp) and did another stand on the other half. Honestly, the beers were nearly identical and I may have only noticed a difference because I was looking for one. I should have done a bling triangle tasting to see if there really was a decreeable difference.
So what do you think of 170 vs 130 for a hop stand?
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:26 PM   #19
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Unfortunately, I never did just a 170 rest and just a 140 rest, so I couldn't say between the two. I would say that the 140 is a waste of time if a higher stand is used. At least that is my experience with it.

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