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Old 08-01-2014, 12:54 AM   #11
JustinSane
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Originally Posted by day_trippr View Post
fwiw, I use free-swimming pellets for dry hopping in carboys, sink them with a good cold crash, then do a CO2 push to kegs. I use a piece of nylon hop bag material rubber-banded over the end of my stainless racking tube - and with a stainless steel flat washer just small enough to fit through the carboy neck inside the nylon material - all sanitized, of course. The washer prevents the nylon from collapsing around the tube and keeps the beer flowing easily even with the largest pellet charge. Debris never makes it to a keg...

Cheers!

What is a CO2 push to keg? A picture of your setup with the washer and the nylon material would be awesome. That sounds like it would work well.
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Old 08-01-2014, 01:05 AM   #12
normonster
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Whole hops + grain bag.

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Old 08-02-2014, 01:07 AM   #13
day_trippr
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What is a CO2 push to keg? A picture of your setup with the washer and the nylon material would be awesome. That sounds like it would work well.
Ok, so I use the longer rig on the carboy holding beer, snap on a gas QD from one of my CO2 systems, then either attach the tubing with the black beer QD if I'm transferring to a keg, or the plain tubing to connect to the shorter rig if I'm racking to a clean carboy for "secondary" purposes (these days I only do this for my stouts, fwiw). The SS washer is ~1-1/8" OD and is inside a piece of nylon hop bag material roughly 4" square rubber banded to the end of the longer dip tube.

The "push" rig (longer) has worm clamps everywhere to conserve CO2. I found without them the cap would leak around the carboy neck and around the dip tube, and of course the gas connector itself.

I start out with everything connected and the long dip tube pulled up above the beer line. If I'm racking to a keg I lock the manual PRV open, turn on the CO2 at about a half psi, and let the system flush for awhile. Essentially the same if racking between carboys, just no QD or PRV involved.

Then I submerge the diptube in the beer to within an inch or so of the yellow marker to get the beer moving. Near the end of the transfer I'll slide the diptube down so the washer rests on top of the hops and trubby substrate and can draw the whole carboy virtually dry without issue - and leaving all the debris behind (not quite done with that last pic but getting there).

As I exclusively "slow carb" (aka "set and forget") there'll be a good two to three weeks minimum at dispensing temperature in my carbing/cold-holding fridge for any smaller bits to settle out on the bottom of the keg. Typically there's just a coating left, a couple of tablespoons at most...

Cheers!
File Type: jpg push_rigs.jpg (54.1 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg ab_july_24_2014_01.jpg (70.0 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg ab_july_24_2014_03.jpg (59.8 KB, 45 views)
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:17 PM   #14
JustinSane
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Originally Posted by day_trippr View Post
Ok, so I use the longer rig on the carboy holding beer, snap on a gas QD from one of my CO2 systems, then either attach the tubing with the black beer QD if I'm transferring to a keg, or the plain tubing to connect to the shorter rig if I'm racking to a clean carboy for "secondary" purposes (these days I only do this for my stouts, fwiw). The SS washer is ~1-1/8" OD and is inside a piece of nylon hop bag material roughly 4" square rubber banded to the end of the longer dip tube.

The "push" rig (longer) has worm clamps everywhere to conserve CO2. I found without them the cap would leak around the carboy neck and around the dip tube, and of course the gas connector itself.

I start out with everything connected and the long dip tube pulled up above the beer line. If I'm racking to a keg I lock the manual PRV open, turn on the CO2 at about a half psi, and let the system flush for awhile. Essentially the same if racking between carboys, just no QD or PRV involved.

Then I submerge the diptube in the beer to within an inch or so of the yellow marker to get the beer moving. Near the end of the transfer I'll slide the diptube down so the washer rests on top of the hops and trubby substrate and can draw the whole carboy virtually dry without issue - and leaving all the debris behind (not quite done with that last pic but getting there).

As I exclusively "slow carb" (aka "set and forget") there'll be a good two to three weeks minimum at dispensing temperature in my carbing/cold-holding fridge for any smaller bits to settle out on the bottom of the keg. Typically there's just a coating left, a couple of tablespoons at most...

Cheers!
I appreciate the time you took to share. This is great. I've never seen this before. I did attempt to use a washer and hop bag last weekend with poor results. Half way through the transfer the hop bag clogged up with debris. I had to pull the siphon out, remove the bag and transfer. I hope I didn't contaminate. I wonder if #1, your setup works better than mine because of the carbonation push vs. my siphon or #2 because your pulling the beer from about an inch above the hops & yeast cake and not grabbing beer from the bottom until the very end??? Either way, my first attempt was a failure at this with my siphon, hop bag & washer. I ended up filtering the beer through my filter system to another keg and ended up with a very clean product, so I made it all work out, but I've got to get this problem figured out. I'm almost always doing heavy dry hopping.
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