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Old 09-01-2014, 12:48 PM   #11
john901
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I just got one of these. I was going to put it on when transferring to the bottling bucket or when bottling. How would filtering cause oxidation? Unless you mean pouring into a filter.
I do not see how adding a filter would cause oxidation. The only thing i see with a filter like this would possibly be contamination. I imagine i will clean and sanitize it well each time.
Im thinking it'll strain out all but little bits of yeast.
Anyone use one of these before?


http://www.homebrewing.org/14-b-Sanitary-in-line-Filter_p_3594.html

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Old 09-01-2014, 04:43 PM   #12
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Where do you currently keep your fermenter? To clarify your beer, you should be moving it to a colder place (ie. cold crashing) not a warmer place.

I've never used gelatin, but a couple days at 40F gets 3-4 ounces of dry hops completely out of suspension.

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Old 09-01-2014, 05:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john901 View Post
I just got one of these. I was going to put it on when transferring to the bottling bucket or when bottling. How would filtering cause oxidation? Unless you mean pouring into a filter.
I do not see how adding a filter would cause oxidation. The only thing i see with a filter like this would possibly be contamination. I imagine i will clean and sanitize it well each time.
Im thinking it'll strain out all but little bits of yeast.
Anyone use one of these before?


http://www.homebrewing.org/14-b-Sanitary-in-line-Filter_p_3594.html
You can't filter the yeast out of your beer then bottle carb. Besides that looks like an air filter, I don't see you having success pushing your beer through that with gravity. True filtering systems are done with CO2 and kegging, like this system. If you're talking about straining out dry hops then just put the nylon bag over the tip of your racking cane as you mentioned. Submerged in the beer that shouldn't oxidize it, but pouring it through a strainer on the way to the bottling bucket will. I don't personally find the need to strain my dry hops, they settle out after conditioning cold.
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Old 09-01-2014, 06:00 PM   #14
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Agreed. That seems to be a filter for air for oxygenating your wort. I can't imagine that you could gravity filter with that. And even if it could, it will clog almost immediately.

Filtering requires an actual filtering set up. 5 µm means that it would remove many of the things that cause haze but there would still be yeast to bottle carb. There are some wine filters that use a pump to do this, but most Brewers use CO2 and kegging equipment to push the beer.

You can only filter a fairly clear beer anyway because debris would clog the pads even if you use coarse pads in the first filtering round.

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Old 09-01-2014, 06:09 PM   #15
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It's tough to get a fairly clear batch through a large plate filter. That filter above is going to clog in 3 seconds.

If you don't have a kegging setup, rely on time, cold, and finings to clear your beer.

There, I think I repeated what everyone else said.

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Old 09-05-2014, 02:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jahdub View Post
Where do you currently keep your fermenter? To clarify your beer, you should be moving it to a colder place (ie. cold crashing) not a warmer place.

I've never used gelatin, but a couple days at 40F gets 3-4 ounces of dry hops completely out of suspension.
It sits in a basement closet at 65 degrees until the day before I transfer. I move it a day before to let everything settle from being moved.
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Old 09-05-2014, 05:08 PM   #17
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I'm thinking next time I got to bottle I will put a hop bag at the end of the hose secured by a stainless steel clamp to catch any particles in suspension

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Old 09-07-2014, 02:40 PM   #18
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I tried a hop bag after my first IPA bottling session was a disaster and didn't have much better results. 3rd IPA was left in my kitchen fridge overnight (all I could spare, since it was my only fridge) and the difference was amazing. I highly recommend cold crashing all hoppy beers. Using a ferm freezer makes it easy, I just turn it down to 40 a few days before I wanna bottle.

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