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Old 12-27-2013, 08:37 PM   #21
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Thanks for all your post!!! I love to hear how everyone has a little bit different way of doing things but in the end it all equals BEER. So far I had fermented for 7 days, removed and washed as much of the yeast as I could ( I'm using a homemade experimental conical fermenter) and it has now set for a grand total of 16 days. One thing that I think is a little odd is that I'm still getting a little action on the airlock. I did do a yeast starter and within 10 hours of pitching it was at a strong fermentation. I did use oxygen in the wort and the yeast that I used was harvested from a 6 pack of two hearted ale. This is a two hearted ale clone. I think I plan on dry hopping in maybe 4 days and kegging 5 days after giving me a total time of 25 days from start to finish in the fermenter. Please let me know what you think!!!!!
And, not only do we all do things a bit differently, sometimes I even do things differently myself.

Here's an example. Tomorrow I am kegging an IPA. I made a 10 gallon batch, split into two fermenters about 12 days ago. I used two different yeast strains, and wanted to reuse one of them. So about 5 days ago, I racked that fermenter to secondary. I dryhopped both fermenters- adding hops (no bag) to each. One is in the primary, one is in secondary. Both are clear and are finished, so I added the dryhops to finished beer in both cases.

I know that there will be no differences in the finished beers- except for a slight difference in attenuation and flavor due to different yeast strains. (One is an English strain, one is an American strain).

That's a fun experiment for anybody. Even using the same strain, split a batch and see what you think and then decide for yourself!
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Old 12-27-2013, 08:56 PM   #22
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You should dry hop in your keg! Get a stainless steel tea ball and place it in the keg during your conditioning. It works awesome and the hop nose given off is insane!

As for the action in the fermenter. If it is still working, keep in in primary for a few more days. It will help to drop gravity more. When your airlock is completely silent, or REALLY long between bubbles, transfer to your secondary or keg.

What FG are you shooting for?

I do have a stainless steel tea ball that I did use in a keg on a beer that just didn't turn out quite right and after setting for a few days it was a very enjoyable beer. I started with gravity around 1.059 (14.8 brix) and would like to see it around 1.01 or so. I haven't checked it since I took the original gravity. I'll post it when I take it. A for the ball idea, I think that is what I'm going to do. Thanks for reminding me I had that.
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:10 PM   #23
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I'm never in a rush so I let my brews ferment for 3 weeks or more. Depends on what else I'm doing. I ferment cold at close to 60*F using dry yeast. I dry hop in the primary and usually cold crash everything for at least a week just because I can, (bought a little fridge just for that). I have lots to choose from that's ready to drink so there is no rush in my pipeline. Prost.

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Old 12-29-2013, 03:04 AM   #24
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Any tricks or suggestions on how to get the most beer out of your secondary and leave behind the hops, last time I dry hopped I left behind tool much beer using just my auto siphon :-(
I use a inline hop filter made out of copper pipe filled with copper mesh and fresh leaf hops and this lets me get every drop without the trub
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Old 01-02-2014, 04:58 PM   #25
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I use a inline hop filter made out of copper pipe filled with copper mesh and fresh leaf hops and this lets me get every drop without the trub
Do you use this in conjunction with an autosiphon? Can you share a picture of it?

I'd like to learn more about that. I would love a sanitary solution for separating trub that doesn't clog up.
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:14 PM   #26
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imageuploadedbyhome-brew1388686457.672174.jpg
Just got this from ritebrew.com and it worked great.
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:35 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthwestBrewman2013 View Post
You should dry hop in your keg! Get a stainless steel tea ball and place it in the keg during your conditioning. It works awesome and the hop nose given off is insane!

As for the action in the fermenter. If it is still working, keep in in primary for a few more days. It will help to drop gravity more. When your airlock is completely silent, or REALLY long between bubbles, transfer to your secondary or keg.

What FG are you shooting for?



I was short on time so I just dry hopped in the carboy. my gravity ended up at about 7.25 brix, sg of 1.013 if I did the math right and it says it is at 6.44%.
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:00 AM   #28
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Do you use this in conjunction with an autosiphon? Can you share a picture of it?

I'd like to learn more about that. I would love a sanitary solution for separating trub that doesn't clog up.
As soon as I get back home I will snap a photo for you and will try and do a video on my next brew day.
I use a pump but I'm sure if I made it bigger I could use a auto siphon
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Old 01-22-2014, 11:00 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by LovesIPA View Post
Do you use this in conjunction with an autosiphon? Can you share a picture of it?

I'd like to learn more about that. I would love a sanitary solution for separating trub that doesn't clog up.
imageuploadedbyhome-brew1390434863.683271.jpg

Hear are the parts I used for my inline filter.
It's 1" copper reduced to 1/2"
I pack the inlet side of the threaded pipe loosely with leaf hops and the outlet side with the copper mesh.
You can use this in many ways but I mostly use it at flameout and at bottling.
I built a 23" one for my buddy's keg line
Hope this helps
Cheers
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