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Old 07-19-2009, 12:28 PM   #301
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My no chill heffe is ready for yeast this morning... 18 hours to cool it to pitching temps. The WLP300 starter liked the wort too, nice krausen on the starter this morning.

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Old 07-19-2009, 03:14 PM   #302
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Originally Posted by bkov View Post
i understand no chill brewing untill the wort naturally cools to pitching temps(say 24hours max)....but i dont get the extended aging of wort?

why not pitch the yeast and let it stay in primary for a month instead of letting it sit without yeast for a month? beer for the most part improves with age
Yeah, as hit on before it comes down to a time/space issue. I have very few free days to brew right now, so when I do get a free day I brew 20-30 gallons in a day. Now because of the local climate (read: hot as hell), I HAVE to ferment everything in my fermentation chiller unless I want to drink banana smoothies all summer. Now since my chiller only holds two carboys, with no chill I can ferment 10 gallons now, rack in 2-3 weeks and ferment some stored wort, rinse and repeat. Instead of having to try and shove a brew session in some time I really don't have enough time, I can plan a large brew day on my odd day off, invite friends over, have one massive brew day, and my pipeline does not suffer.
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Old 07-19-2009, 10:32 PM   #303
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The POL wrote: Yes, isomerization takes place even when hops are removed, the oils are in the wort, not the hops at this point.
Rob, from what you wrote, it would seem there would be no difference if your trub (with all the hop material) went in the cube or not. The question I have is do you have any idea how long into the boil the oils are out of the hop cone and into the wort?
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Old 07-19-2009, 11:30 PM   #304
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Rob, from what you wrote, it would seem there would be no difference if your trub (with all the hop material) went in the cube or not. The question I have is do you have any idea how long into the boil the oils are out of the hop cone and into the wort?
I have no idea...
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:23 AM   #305
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As to cubes I first ordered the 6 gallon white WinPacks. They were too stiff and it was hard to figure how much air I had left after the fill.

I ordered 5 Gallon Lightweight Carboys at US Plastic (link below) and have used them to fill 4 times. They hold almost 5.5 gallons and because they are soft sided you can close them, position them to get all the air at the cap and squeeze it out. I have no more than a few small bubbles of air I don't get out.

Today I brewed 10 gallons of blonde ale and 5 gallons of English brown and all are in these carboys.

Before now I would have had to schedule only a 5 gallon brew day because my fermentation chamber has room for only two 6 gallon carboys and I usually have one fermenting. My wort chillers are now gathering dust.

Like Deathweed I don't brew real often, at least in the summer. The heat is a killer. This weekend it was cooler - I think it was just under 100° - so I started at 6AM and was done by noon. Next weekend is supposed to be under 95° - I need more carboys!!!

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Old 07-20-2009, 03:42 AM   #306
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The 6 gallon Winpaks are pretty stiff, but they are probably not the best choice if you are storing wort for any period anyway, with all the headspace.

The 6 gallon Winpak was my choice because I dont store my wort. I pitch within 24 hours, so I dont remove the air from the container, and I wanted more headspace for the ferment.

The Winpak is basically a HDPE fermentor, which is capable of the temps associated with no chill so that you do not require a chilling vessel and a fermenting vessel.

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Old 07-20-2009, 08:28 AM   #307
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i havent read a lot of the posts...wheres the cheapest place to get cubes or winpacks?

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Old 07-20-2009, 11:44 AM   #308
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Cheapest? Dunno... about the ONLY place I found them was USPlastics.com. $15 for a 6 gallon fermentor that is indestructibe and has a handle on it, is a pretty good deal!

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Old 07-22-2009, 02:34 AM   #309
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Going to be packing up my gear and driving to my parents house for a visit. My dad wants to learn how to brew but is not going to purchasing equipment just yet. Basically I figure I have two options while bringing the wort back home after the visit and brew day (AG), chill and siphon into a sanitized cube, or go no chill and siphon into a sanitized cube.

From flameout to pitching will involve no more than 24 hours with 4.5 of those hours in the car.

The question is, which will yield a better beer? Or will there be no discernible differences? Probably going to brew something like Edwort's haus pale ale. I think the thing I am most worried about is bacteria, but if both methods are going to bacteria safe, I would like to choose the one that will yield the better beer.

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Old 07-22-2009, 02:44 AM   #310
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Originally Posted by dcgrp View Post
Going to be packing up my gear and driving to my parents house for a visit. My dad wants to learn how to brew but is not going to purchasing equipment just yet. Basically I figure I have two options while bringing the wort back home after the visit and brew day (AG), chill and siphon into a sanitized cube, or go no chill and siphon into a sanitized cube.

From flameout to pitching will involve no more than 24 hours with 4.5 of those hours in the car.

The question is, which will yield a better beer? Or will there be no discernible differences? Probably going to brew something like Edwort's haus pale ale. I think the thing I am most worried about is bacteria, but if both methods are going to bacteria safe, I would like to choose the one that will yield the better beer.

If you go no chill, you will have to adjust your hop additions. You will get about 20 minutes of additional utilization if you no chill. Other than that, you wont taste or see a difference in your beer, no one else I have spoken to has.
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