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Old 05-02-2009, 01:54 AM   #11
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+1 on campden tablets or some other preservative. I believe that in even the most meticulously sanitized conditions the wort will begin to grow bugs after 4 days or so.

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Old 05-02-2009, 02:01 AM   #12
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I have been doing some "no chill" brewing and have not witnessed the "problems" that the nay sayers claim. Then again, I have not talked to a single nay sayer that has actually tried it. Go figure.

I have not stored my wort, but rather cooled over a 24 hour period while the RWS (real wort starter) gets churning, then pitch. Saves some time, saves water, uses less equipment etc.

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Old 05-02-2009, 04:20 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pen25 View Post
you could add a small amount of dri ice and vent. that would get rid of the oxygen and create a seal.you wont need much just enough to offset the oxygen. when you want to ferment then aerate and pitch.
Dry ice is not made in food safe conditions, and in many cases contains machine oils and other contaminants. Not a good choice for brewing.

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Brew a saison or belgian ale. That way, it can handle the higher than normal ale temps.
Great idea, but this idea is being thrown around, especially in Australian boards, why not give it a try here?

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+1 on campden tablets or some other preservative. I believe that in even the most meticulously sanitized conditions the wort will begin to grow bugs after 4 days or so.
I believe adding something like campden tablets to the wort at this point would also inhibit future growth of the yeast that I pitch later and actually want to grow.

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he only has enough room in his fermentation chamber for 10-gallons at a time, and ambient temps are too warm for his liking...

Personally, I'd just buy a couple tub and fill with water and ice bottles....
Yes, I only have capacity in my fermentation chiller for 2, 5-6 gallon carboys, and the ambient temps in the house during the day can reach 85-90deg even during this time of year since we are gone more than 12 hours out of the day and do not like running the AC during all that time.

I have done the "tub 'o ice water" fermentation cooling before, and while it works, why not try something new? I have the equipment, ingredients, and will to try, so why else not? I believe I addressed the major concerns above, but if there are any I have overlooked, please let me know so I can look at them before I try this out.
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Old 05-02-2009, 04:21 AM   #14
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Pol - do you use campden tablets, or do you literally just kill the heat, cover and set aside for 24 hours?

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Old 05-02-2009, 05:52 AM   #15
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you can get dri ice that is food grade. one reason it is used in the fog making punch.

http://www.dryicedirectory.com/

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Old 05-02-2009, 12:15 PM   #16
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Now if we consider we frequently tell noobs to chill their wort w/in 30 minutes using the sink and ice method, you have a rough window of ~20 minutes to bring the wort below 180 deg to prevent any detectable DMS formation.
FWIW, 140 is typically the threshold temp I see specified for SMM to be hydrolyzed to DMS

I'd be interested to see your results with this method.
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Old 05-02-2009, 01:00 PM   #17
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I believe adding something like campden tablets to the wort at this point would also inhibit future growth of the yeast that I pitch later and actually want to grow.
I have no idea how this would work, but I do know that sulfites (campden tablets) disapate with time. That's why wine makers re-add sulfites on a regular schedule. Either they use an so2 meter (expensive) to get around 50 ppm, or they guestimate by using a set amount, like 1 campden tablet per gallon at every other racking.

Wine yeast isn't particularly susceptible to sulfites, though. That's why it works pretty well. I'm not sure about ale yeast- I would think they can tolerate a bit of sulfite just as wine yeast do.
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Old 05-02-2009, 01:02 PM   #18
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Pol - do you use campden tablets, or do you literally just kill the heat, cover and set aside for 24 hours?
I drain the wort directly from the BK to the HDPE container at about 190F (10 minutes after the end of the boil) then seal it with the lid on.

I let it sit at 65F ambient for 24 hours

I then pitch my starter, made from wort from the actual beer I am making

No campden

No DMS

No Botulism

Works great

Lasts a long time

What is the point in using campden, or getting at all concerned with a 24 hour chill? I mean, some of my ferments in the past didnt start for up to 72 hours! And that wort was cooled in the open, transferred cool and placed in a container that was not sanitized with boiling hot wort. Eww, can you imagine the opportunity for infection in NORMAL chilling and brewing practices? No chill sounds MUCH more sanitary to me.
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Old 05-02-2009, 01:05 PM   #19
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FWIW, 140 is typically the threshold temp I see specified for SMM to be hydrolyzed to DMS

I'd be interested to see your results with this method.
Yeah, but unless you are using a lot of Pilsner malt and not boiling adequately, you wont have much SMM left.

I have always boiled for 90 minutes, since it is basically free to add 30 minutes to the boil. So going to "no chill" was easier, 90-100 minute boils leave extremely small ammounts of SMM in the wort, thusly, much less ability to produce DMS.

But like anything else, you have to try it. If any of us brewed the way that the "beer gods" said to back in the 1970's, can you imagine? Much has changed since then, much will change in the next 10-20 years.
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Old 05-02-2009, 01:13 PM   #20
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I just read an article in BYO that discusses a similar question from the reader. The question was about how to split the brew day.

Basically, the answer involved rapidly chilling the wort, then maintaining it as close to 32* as possible.

This is different than Pols method, where he is pitching the yeast in a day. The OP wants to wait a week or more.

If this were a one time thing, perhaps you could pick up a deep freeze ( or rent one ).

As far as that goes, you could get some 6 gal HDPE and a Love Controller and use that with your new deep freeze and have 20 gal of beer ready in a couple of weeks.

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