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Old 10-03-2011, 01:36 PM   #1091
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In terms of clarity, I don't think No Chill has ANY impact on final clarity. Meaning that there are other reasons for your haze. My clearest ale ever was a Scottish Ale that I No Chilled, and it was crystal clear from the very first bottle (no lagering).
While I don't doubt there could be other things in my process lending towards foggy beers, all my previous chilled beers have been quite clear, if not crystal clear.

Is there something else I can do during the brewing process, be it the use of additional ingredients, boil time, etc, that would help?
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Old 10-03-2011, 02:30 PM   #1092
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Is there something else I can do during the brewing process, be it the use of additional ingredients, boil time, etc, that would help?
Clarity is something that "just works" for me for beers I want it to without me thinking about it too much. All my lagers drop clear after a few weeks, and my malty ales seem to do the same. My beers with late hop additions or dry hops all seem to be cloudy, as do my wheat beers and brown ales. Fortunately, this isn't a problem stylistically for these brews (well, I'd like the browns a little clearer maybe...). Especially with the hoppy beers, the haze never clears, even after lagering.

For the record, I use whirflock on all my beers (even wheats) and I boil pretty vigorously in a turkey frier for 60-80 mins.

There are several post-fermentation products out now to help with haze. The names escape me at the moment, but ask at your local home brew shop. If you aren't opposed to non-vegan beer, try Isinglass or gelatin. (They aren't for me, but to each his own)
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Old 10-03-2011, 04:43 PM   #1093
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OK...Updated my E-Biab w/ No Chill experiment (post #1081).

John

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Old 10-03-2011, 08:22 PM   #1094
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Great, thanks for the information. I am going to give Whirlfloc a try and start using Irish Moss in my beers again to see if that helps clear them up. Other than the cloudiness, I am really loving No Chill. Beers turn out just as good as chilled, minus the immense hassle and wasted water of chilling.

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Old 10-04-2011, 04:40 AM   #1095
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Originally Posted by ghpeel

Clarity is something that "just works" for me for beers I want it to without me thinking about it too much. All my lagers drop clear after a few weeks, and my malty ales seem to do the same. My beers with late hop additions or dry hops all seem to be cloudy, as do my wheat beers and brown ales. Fortunately, this isn't a problem stylistically for these brews (well, I'd like the browns a little clearer maybe...). Especially with the hoppy beers, the haze never clears, even after lagering.

For the record, I use whirflock on all my beers (even wheats) and I boil pretty vigorously in a turkey frier for 60-80 mins.

There are several post-fermentation products out now to help with haze. The names escape me at the moment, but ask at your local home brew shop. If you aren't opposed to non-vegan beer, try Isinglass or gelatin. (They aren't for me, but to each his own)
My west coast IPA with 6 oz of late hops, both whole and pellet was the second clearest beer I ever brewed. The first was an ESB with gelatin for clearing. My Munich lager never cleared in the keg and when I bottled with the beer gun it only cleared a little more in the fridge.

I think yeast has a lot to do with clarity.
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:07 PM   #1096
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OK...Updated my E-Biab w/ No Chill experiment (post #1081).

John
A little (okay a lot) off topic. You mentioned in your #2 Update that you saved back some wort for a starter. I have often read that you want to keep your starter at 1.020-1.030 OG. Am I correct in assuming yours was 1.065? If so, have you done this in the past? If so, I would assume you have good results?

Thanks.
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:09 PM   #1097
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A little (okay a lot) off topic. You mentioned in your #2 Update that you saved back some wort for a starter. I have often read that you want to keep your starter at 1.020-1.030 OG. Am I correct in assuming yours was 1.065? If so, have you done this in the past? If so, I would assume you have good results?

Thanks.
It's called a Real Wort Starter (RWS), the thought is that you are acclimating your yeast to the actual wort you are going to be pitching it in to. I've done 5-6 RWS's in the past without any issues.
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:36 PM   #1098
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It's called a Real Wort Starter (RWS), the thought is that you are acclimating your yeast to the actual wort you are going to be pitching it in to. I've done 5-6 RWS's in the past without any issues.
Thank you.
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:40 PM   #1099
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Thank you.
No worries. FWIW, since my groundwater temp is pretty low & I've got a plate chiller, I've all but stopped doing No-Chill batches. I do support the idea and can say that it worked wonderfully for me, but I'm impatient so I am back to chilling my batches.
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:48 PM   #1100
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I'm with wyzazz now.... I did about 30 no chill batches using the 'cool in the kettle' technique. Then I borrowed a buds wort chiller and frankly, it was pretty easy to get it chilled and pitched; didn't take more than 30 minutes to chill and another 10 to get it into the fridge.

As a result, I bought copper on line earlier this week and will have an IC up and running soon. I still value the technique and I KNOW it works and would recommend it to anyone familiar with proper sanitation techniques. For me, no chill was a cost savings necessity (I didn't want to invest in the chiller). But I found some inexpensive copper online and I'm going to take a year off and start chilling.

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