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Old 06-01-2012, 02:18 PM   #1
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Default Dry hopping: Primary vs. secondary

I'm looking to dry hop an IPA I brewed last week, so I thought I'd check online for some more info. There seems to be a couple different schools of thought, would somebody be willing to share with the advantages and disadvantages of dry hopping in the primary vs. the secondary?

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Old 06-01-2012, 02:53 PM   #2
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Advantage of primary is you didn't waste your time and risk of oxygenation and infection by using a secondary. I'd only consider a secondary if I wasn't going to keg the beer (I dry hop most beers in the keg) and I wanted to keep the yeast. Another thought is that IIRC it is ideal to dry hop right at the tail end of fermentation so the CO2 can scrub out any introduced oxygen or something like that, so dry hopping in the keg like I do is not necessarily the best thing, just works for me being lazy.

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Old 06-01-2012, 03:25 PM   #3
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Each method provides very equal results if your procedure is sound. Let your yeast drop out of suspension and avoid agitating the carboy at all costs prior to bottling.

Sometimes racking to secondary is not an option due to headspace issues so dryhopping in the primary IS your only option. I add pellets without a bag, which eventually drop to the bottom. I feel this is the best way to dryhop in the primary.

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Old 06-01-2012, 04:36 PM   #4
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I think jamil zainasheff suggests only dry hopping for 5-7 days or else the taste is grassy.
So when I dry hop, I add it to the fermetoer 5-7 days before racking. The pellets just sink into the trub by the time I'm ready to rack.

As for risk of infection, the primary fermentation is complete, and the top is cracked open and the pellets poured in.
The risk seems minimal.

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Old 06-03-2012, 12:44 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arclight View Post
i think jamil zainasheff suggests only dry hopping for 5-7 days or else the taste is grassy.
So when i dry hop, i add it to the fermetoer 5-7 days before racking. The pellets just sink into the trub by the time i'm ready to rack.

As for risk of infection, the primary fermentation is complete, and the top is cracked open and the pellets poured in.
The risk seems minimal.

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Old 06-03-2012, 02:15 AM   #6
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If the purpose of dry hopping is to increase aroma (or flavor) of the hops....

I have seen it mentioned a few times here, that the optimum route for doing so is to chill your wort to around 190 degrees (give or take 10 degrees), and THEN pour your aroma hops in. Wait for 10 minutes, then continue chilling.

From what my friend's mother has taught me about cooking.... putting things on full blast/boil isn't the best way to bring out flavor / aroma. So I have reason to believe this 10 minutes at 190 degree theory is correct. I've also seen it mentioned that this is the method Sierra Nevada uses.... and they by far have the hoppiest damn beer I can enjoy.

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Old 06-03-2012, 02:18 AM   #7
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If you are going to dry hop in the primary it works best if you can cold crash first. It will drop out a lot of yeast. Warm it back up to 60-70 F for dry hopping. Apparently the yeast can absorb some of the hop oil so you want as little yeast as possible for maximum hop impact.

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Old 06-04-2012, 02:45 AM   #8
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I primary for 4 weeks and I have dry hopped anywhere from 7-14 days. Just depends on when I get around to adding them. I have never had any problem adding them in primary. I use leaf hops in a hop sock. I have also dry hopped in the keg for 3-4 months and had no grassy flavors. Either primary or secondary will work fine.

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Old 06-09-2012, 05:56 PM   #9
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Tossed the hops in a few days ago. Still smells ok, but is it supposed to look like this?

forumrunner_20120609_135411.jpg

Didn't cold crash it before hand due to lack of fridge space

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Old 06-09-2012, 06:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLExpat View Post
Tossed the hops in a few days ago. Still smells ok, but is it supposed to look like this?

Attachment 64251

Didn't cold crash it before hand due to lack of fridge space
Not if it got that way after dry hopping...unless the liquid is higher than it looks.
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