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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > Does anyone WHIRLPOOL when transferring to secondary???
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:49 PM   #71
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OP should name his creation Grndslm's Cardboard Ale and post it up on the recipe board.

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Old 06-06-2012, 08:11 PM   #72
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After conferring with Tasty about this thread. His EXACT words are

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tasty
Post #28 sums it up for me
Here is "post 28"

Quote:
Originally Posted by weirdboy View Post
I still don't get why the OP is advocating whirlpooling before transferring into secondary. It accomplishes absolutely nothing except potentially oxidizing the beer, and if anything it stirs up sediment that would otherwise have stayed in the primary.


Also, to the OP, you clearly do not understand why people whirlpool in brewing.

The purpose of the whirlpool post-boil is that it concentrates the sediment into the center of the vessel. The sediment doesn't automatically drop out when you whirlpool, though. You whirlpool, and then you WAIT, 20 minutes or so, until the sediment has formed a nice, neat cone in the center. Then you carefully rack the liquid from the kettle. The reason you want a cone in the center is because the dip tube in your boil kettle is on the edge of the kettle, so the cone in the center keeps sediment from going into the dip tube.

When you are transferring to secondary, there is absolutely no need to whirlpool because you typically use a racking cane or autosiphon, which pulls liquid from above the sediment, which is settled across the bottom in a nice compact cake (usually).


If you cant take advice from us, please take advice from a professional in the business. No one is saying not to push the limits of brewing but try to take into consideration the mistakes others have made before you. You are still new to brewing. Get a handle on the basics and get a few brews under your belt. No one want to see good beer go to waste and a newbie get deterred when his beer dose not turn out as planned.

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Old 06-06-2012, 08:17 PM   #73
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Wow.

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Piratwolf: "I've heard that Belgian Blondes can be "panty droppers" but they're not particularly high IBU nor cheap."

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Wait. You're not talking about beer, right?
You're talking about beer. That could have been a whole lot more fun.
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:48 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeBronco
Intelligence is learning from your own mistakes
Wisdom is learning from the mistakes of others
+1
Truth. Well said, JoeBronco.
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:01 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grndslm View Post
--- ALL I AM DOING IS ASKING QUESTIONS BASED ON MY UNDERSTANDING OF A COUPLE BOOKS AND THIS FORUM.
can you rephrase the question?
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:18 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grndslm View Post


I am not 100% sure where I read about the brewers who rolled the lager carboys on the ground, but I'll try to find it.

I'm definitely going to cease replying until I have finished this Yeast book, however. So...

YOU WIN!!



I know the OP said he's "out" so that's fine. but something was bugging me about the color change described. During brewing this afternoon, it hit me!

The wort color will be the finished beer color. It can't get darker or lighter - except for while there are hundreds of billions of yeast in suspension and then it will get back to its original color after much of the yeast falls out and the beer clears.

If the beer darkens, and it's not attributable to the yeast falling out of suspension, it is probably due to oxidation. One of the classic signs of oxidation is a darkening of the beer.

For example, I brewed today. Here is a photo of my hydrometer sample. I'm by the light because I want to check color and clarity.

dscn0333.jpg

It's not a great picture, because of the light streaming in the window, but I think it illustrates my point. The beer will be this color when it is finished. It has to be. It can not be darker, and it cannot be lighter once it clears.

The OP stated that the beer went from light yellow to dark rusty. If it turns rusty or dark colored, it almost is certainly oxidation.

(Look at all that cold break in the bottom of my test jar!)
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:39 PM   #77
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This thread has taught me the value of capitalizing random words when arguing on the internet.

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Old 06-06-2012, 09:42 PM   #78
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@Yooper~ a thoughtful & useful reply, as ever. It seemed strange to me also, but I wouldn't have clarified the response as well.

As for the cold break, what if you swirled your test tube vigorously... (I kid! I kid!)

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Piratwolf: "I've heard that Belgian Blondes can be "panty droppers" but they're not particularly high IBU nor cheap."

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Wait. You're not talking about beer, right?
You're talking about beer. That could have been a whole lot more fun.
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:23 PM   #79
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Allow me to answer in the simplest way possible:

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Old 06-07-2012, 12:37 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grndslm
I guess what I really need is a 5-gallon stir plate.
I actually have a 5-gallon stirplate, which I've tried on whole batches (doesn't cause oxidation because of positive pressure). I got it as a test unit but I believe it's sold under the name "Black Maxx".

It speeds up the fermentation of beer a bit, but that's about it. I find it mostly useful for mead.
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