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Old 07-29-2008, 07:25 AM   #1
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Default confusion about hops at flame out

I am a bit confused at exactly what to do when a recipe says to add hops at flame out. I understand the basics, add them at flame out. My real confusion comes with how long do you leave them in the wort after flame out. 1 min, 5 min, 10 min, the entire time the wort is cooling? Please explain this to me as I have not been able to find an answer using the search button.



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Old 07-29-2008, 07:31 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by toddrod View Post
I am a bit confused at exactly what to do when a recipe says to add hops at flame out. I understand the basics, add them at flame out. My real confusion comes with how long do you leave them in the wort after flame out. 1 min, 5 min, 10 min, the entire time the wort is cooling? Please explain this to me as I have not been able to find an answer using the search button.
Yes, normally you leave them the entire time until you rack to fermentor. I would be difficoult to pull them out anyway


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Old 07-29-2008, 07:49 AM   #3
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If you do the sink/ice bath method it might take 30/45 minutes to cool. I would think that would make the beer more bitter and take away from flavor/aroma.

I had the same question recently and the guy at my LHBS told me to remove the hops while I'm letting it cool, but I suppose that is easier if you are using muslin bags.

He could have been wrong though, so I'm interested in hearing other opinions.

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Old 07-29-2008, 07:56 AM   #4
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Let me give a little more information.

I use pellets that I place in a nylon bag but i am will be making a bag with the paint strainer bag / PVC pipe mod that hangs from the top of the keggle.

I use a wort chiller that usually takes 15 minutes to get the wort down to 80-85 degrees.

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Old 07-29-2008, 08:58 AM   #5
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I use pellets that I place in a nylon bag
Pellets in a bag? I don't think it is a good technique for any hoping, and especially for such late hoping. I toss the pellets loose, hop utilisation is better that way, and the results are more repeatable.

Bittering can't be an issue here, you won't get any IBUs from late hoping, no matter how long they stay in the wort, the bittering compounds need to be boiled to get soluble. Here you acquire only some more volatile hop oils and aromas. Of course the results can be variable, depending how fast you chill the wort, but we can do nothing about it.
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Old 07-29-2008, 09:02 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by landis View Post
If you do the sink/ice bath method it might take 30/45 minutes to cool. I would think that would make the beer more bitter and take away from flavor/aroma...
It won't make the beer any more bitter, the hops need to be in the acutal boil to bitter the beer.

When I do flame out additions I just chuck them in when I flame out (or cut the electricity to the electric kettle) and leave them in there.
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:15 AM   #7
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Yeah, the time it takes to cool isn;t a large factor for bittering. Hops under a certain temp don't add effective bittering. You may get more aroma and flavour, but your beer won't be any extra bitter because it took 45min to cool down rather than 30min.

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Old 07-29-2008, 03:13 PM   #8
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Oh nice, I learn something new every day. It was always a pain to yank those out while it was cooling so it's nice to know that I can just leave them in next time. Thanks for the advice.

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Old 07-29-2008, 11:39 PM   #9
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Oh nice, I learn something new every day. It was always a pain to yank those out while it was cooling so it's nice to know that I can just leave them in next time. Thanks for the advice.
I believe you need 20-30 minutes of boiling temperatures to add significant bitterness to beer.

Also, many people use hop bags to steep their hops. Search "hop bag" here or on youtube and you'll find *lots* of information.

Nylon paint strainer bags are preferred.
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:51 PM   #10
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Pellets in a bag? I don't think it is a good technique for any hoping, and especially for such late hoping.
I adamantly disagree. Defend yourself. Give me one reference.

I have NEVER heard this advice before - pellet hops work JUST FINE in a bag, and using them in a bag is a GOOD technique for hopping. Throwing them in loose is also a good technique. So is throwing them into a suspended hop-strainer-pvc-apparatus like the one I own and like the one the OP is planning to build. About the only bad technique with hops is leaving them in an open, unsealed bag, in a hot windowsill in July, in the sun.

....

But even that's a good technique if you're trying to debitter them for a lambic.


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