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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > Closed-system pressurized fermentation technique!
View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 83 11.16%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 21 2.82%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.54%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 556 74.73%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 80 10.75%
Voters: 744. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 12-04-2010, 04:40 AM   #581
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Is it just me or does this look like it the conical product i was mentioning a few posts ago?

http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?...ndex&cPath=257

Even says they are going to be adding ball lock connections.

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Old 12-04-2010, 01:43 PM   #582
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Just took a sample to check gravity. I decided to leave the pressure set at 5psi under introduced co2 pressure. That of course went down to about 2psi due to absorption. Once it was back up to 5psi after 3 days from pitching, I ramped it up to 15psi at 62 deg. I'll be curious if this slows the fermentation down at all. Here's an embed of my set up for dual corny filling a la counter pressure fill. All parts via mcmaster, Lowes, and Northern Brewer. I love it. It was my first fill which I used on my last IPA which I'm currently draining. I've since figured out how to minimize the foam and co2 issue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BETMDQGzFjs
I'm draining my first pressure fermented batch, a scottish 80 schilling. The taste is awesome, the technique very cool. I ran mine through a 5 micron filter on its way to 3 cornies but had the same problem with foaming and the beer isnt clear.

Any hints?
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Old 12-04-2010, 06:48 PM   #583
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I am wondering if the fact that the housing isn't vented all the way is the problem. How was the filter filled prior to transfer? I am in the process now of tracking down filtration equipment that I can use for other things as well. I want to use a 1 micron for beer polishing, and maybe a lot larger micron for mash to kettle filtration or kettle to cooler filtration and pre-chiller hopping. In my opinion, the filter needs to be filled and vented completely prior to the start of filling kegs from it. Never having used a canister type filter before, I don't know (especially, filtering carbonated beer). I am glad someone else is doing the experimenting so I can get a better idea before I dive in.

I tried to taste a keg I transferred prior to Thanksgiving, and it is very yeasty even yesterday. I don't understand this at all from previous experiences where I had clear beer with no filter.

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Old 12-06-2010, 03:33 AM   #584
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I am wondering if the fact that the housing isn't vented all the way is the problem. How was the filter filled prior to transfer? I am in the process now of tracking down filtration equipment that I can use for other things as well. I want to use a 1 micron for beer polishing, and maybe a lot larger micron for mash to kettle filtration or kettle to cooler filtration and pre-chiller hopping. In my opinion, the filter needs to be filled and vented completely prior to the start of filling kegs from it. Never having used a canister type filter before, I don't know (especially, filtering carbonated beer). I am glad someone else is doing the experimenting so I can get a better idea before I dive in.

I tried to taste a keg I transferred prior to Thanksgiving, and it is very yeasty even yesterday. I don't understand this at all from previous experiences where I had clear beer with no filter.
I didn't fill the filter before transfer. I just pressurized the corny to 10, CO2 in on the sankey to 12-15. Bled the corny with an S valve until beer started flowing. It took about 8 psi difference to get the beer going through a 5 micron filter.

The filter housing never really filled all the way to the top. It was mostly foam...
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Old 12-06-2010, 01:10 PM   #585
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Once my filter was about half to 3/4 full, I turned it over and then turn back, and it filled up almost to the top. The beer into the corny was pure liquid flow with an occasional co2 bubble or two. The venting idea would be good prior to connecting to the cornies. The last beer I transferred my beer was carbed to14lb psi, set the cornies to 14psi and then slowly opened the valve to start transfer. It wasn't anymore difficult at 14psi than my original transfer at 8psi.

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Old 12-06-2010, 01:48 PM   #586
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This is what I was hoping to hear flananuts! It just doesn't make sense that there would be that much foam under pressure on both ends. I gave up on the idea of a post-serving keg to pre-tap filter idea due to the fact it would be open on the exiting end, hence allowing foam. I had heard that even the Randall foamed for a while and a pitcher was needed. I am confident that I will use a 1 micron absolute for my beer polishing. Now, I just have to decide on pleated vs. non-pleated and if I want to go the extra money for something autoclavable vs. throw away after finally clogging. I have heard that the SS filter cartridges aren't absolute due to them being mesh and not micron measured??? I still have some hardcore research on that before I settle.

Does anyone have a link (sorry I lost the one I was given) to a cheaper cartridge that is autoclavable for sure and is known to fit the common housings? I sure would appreciate the added confidence that I was sterile before running to a serving keg. I know I could use Star-San, and I would, I just want to have autoclavable. Heck, I just got done autoclaving my Therminator, brewery hoses (silicone), and all my fittings just to be sure after forgetting to clean out my mash tun for almost a month.

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Old 12-06-2010, 04:49 PM   #587
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Does anyone have a link (sorry I lost the one I was given) to a cheaper cartridge that is autoclavable for sure and is known to fit the common housings?
Fiberglass Media, Polypropylene Core, with SS Ring - $36

Polypropylene Media, Polypropylene Core, without SS Ring - $31.25

I wouldn't recommend relying on Star San to sanitize a filter. Heat is your friend. 200F for 5 minutes is considered sterile if that is your goal.

I've been using pasteurization temperatures (162F - 170F) for 10 minutes with excellent results. Yeast and bacteria capable of growing in beer can not survive pasteurization temperatures.
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Old 12-06-2010, 05:32 PM   #588
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Fiberglass Media, Polypropylene Core, with SS Ring - $36

Polypropylene Media, Polypropylene Core, without SS Ring - $31.25

I wouldn't recommend relying on Star San to sanitize a filter. Heat is your friend. 200F for 5 minutes is considered sterile if that is your goal.

I've been using pasteurization temperatures (162F - 170F) for 10 minutes with excellent results. Yeast and bacteria capable of growing in beer can not survive pasteurization temperatures.

Just to be clear, the second of those 2 links is only rated to 175 degrees F and states you should get the models with the SS ring should you need higher temps since the ring will protect the integrity of the end caps.

Which filter densities do you guys go with? I have heard 5 micron (as one other poster was using) is desirable for filtration, but have no personal experience.
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Old 12-06-2010, 06:49 PM   #589
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Just to be clear, the second of those 2 links is only rated to 175 degrees F and states you should get the models with the SS ring should you need higher temps since the ring will protect the integrity of the end caps.
Just to be clear, it states the Operating Temperature (pressurized) is 175F. Polypropylene is 100% autoclavable.

And, the "potential warping after repeated autoclave cycles" is really only an issue with the non-flat end caps. The flat end cap filters, which most folks use, wouldn't warp enough to prevent a good seal.
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Old 12-06-2010, 10:36 PM   #590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lamarguy
I wouldn't recommend relying on Star San to sanitize a filter. Heat is your friend. 200F for 5 minutes is considered sterile if that is your goal.

I've been using pasteurization temperatures (162F - 170F) for 10 minutes with excellent results. Yeast and bacteria capable of growing in beer can not survive pasteurization temperatures.
Sweet! Thanks again for the links to the filters. I really didn't want to be having to rely on a liquid sanitizer. I plan on using my pressure canner like I do for my Therminator and brewing hoses.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamarguy View Post
Just to be clear, it states the Operating Temperature (pressurized) is 175F. Polypropylene is 100% autoclavable.

And, the "potential warping after repeated autoclave cycles" is really only an issue with the non-flat end caps. The flat end cap filters, which most folks use, wouldn't warp enough to prevent a good seal.
I am sold after reading more about polypropylene. I guess the only worry is the EPDM gaskets if anything, and that can handle 200-220*F so maybe not worth worrying about at all. I am guessing that all 10" filters are really 9.75" and that when someone says 10" they mean the housing. I'm not finding 3/4" fittings on the uswatersystems site that I would use. I really wish they had a 1/2" inlet and outlet to hook my two ball valves to.
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