Closed-system pressurized fermentation technique! - Page 41

**lamarguy** · 10-07-2010, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by humann_brewing

So are you guys just dumping in hops to the kegs?

I rack and coarse filter (5 micron) to a new keg before dry hopping. I do this for a couple of reasons:

Excessive yeast will adsorb and reduce the dry hop character.
Re-pitching "dry hopped" yeast to another batch carries over a certain amount of flavor/aroma. Not always desirable.
I prefer to keep the beer under pressure once carbonated during primary fermentation. Opening the lid to throw in some hops would defeat the purpose.
I use a SureScreen filter on my "dry hop" kegs. So, I just toss in the hops, purge with CO2, and rack to the keg.

**humann_brewing** · 10-07-2010, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lamarguy

I rack and coarse filter (5 micron) to a new keg before dry hopping. I do this for a couple of reasons:

Excessive yeast will adsorb and reduce the dry hop character.
Re-pitching "dry hopped" yeast to another batch carries over a certain amount of flavor/aroma. Not always desirable.
I prefer to keep the beer under pressure once carbonated during primary fermentation. Opening the lid to throw in some hops would defeat the purpose.
I use a SureScreen filter on my "dry hop" kegs. So, I just toss in the hops, purge with CO2, and rack to the keg.

Very nice, I saw your filtering transfer, I think I might try to go that route too. so 2 questions on the dry hop

so you have the beer carbed and cold, so you dry hop cold? wouldn't this take a lot longer?

the surescreen looks good but I use pellets and it says they tend to get clogged. do you use pellet or whole

**lamarguy** · 10-07-2010, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by humann_brewing

so you have the beer carbed and cold, so you dry hop cold? wouldn't this take a lot longer?

Before I filter, I cold crash to ~30F for 24 hours to settle as much yeast as possible and to enhance long-term flavor stability (concept supported by brewing literature). At that point, the beer is carbonated to about 2 volumes and in the low 30's.

If I'm dry hopping, I then set the fridge temp controller to ~70F and let it rest for ~7 days. So, no, I don't dry hop cold.

Quote:

Originally Posted by humann_brewing

the surescreen looks good but I use pellets and it says they tend to get clogged. do you use pellet or whole

Ya, that's why I use whole hops exclusively for dry hopping. Pellet hops for hot-side and whole hops for cold-side...Otherwise, I'd have to use bags and what not.

**humann_brewing** · 10-07-2010, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lamarguy

Before I filter, I cold crash to ~30F for 24 hours to settle as much yeast as possible and to enhance long-term flavor stability (concept supported by brewing literature). At that point, the beer is carbonated to about 2 volumes and in the low 30's.

If I'm dry hopping, I then set the fridge temp controller to ~70F and let it rest for ~7 days. So, no, I don't dry hop cold.

Ya, that's why I use whole hops exclusively for dry hopping. Pellet hops for hot-side and whole hops for cold-side...Otherwise, I'd have to use bags and what not.

ok, so I guess I need to get some whole hops or figure something else out.

**lamarguy** · 10-07-2010, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by humann_brewing

ok, so I guess I need to get some whole hops or figure something else out.

Of course, there's no "wrong" answer. Do whatever is comfortable to you and your brewing process.

**humann_brewing** · 10-07-2010, 03:40 PM

sounds good, so is there any preference update as to what pressure relief valve and gauge?

**lamarguy** · 10-07-2010, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by humann_brewing

sounds good, so is there any preference update as to what pressure relief valve and gauge?

McMaster has a fine adjustment relief valve that costs more but is more precise (my preference).

The inexpensive relief valve will work just fine for what you're doing, though.

Any pressure gauge will work. I recommend a 0 - 30 PSI range.

**humann_brewing** · 10-07-2010, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lamarguy

McMaster has a fine adjustment relief valve that costs more but is more precise (my preference).

The inexpensive relief valve will work just fine for what you're doing, though.

Any pressure gauge will work. I recommend a 0 - 30 PSI range.

Thanks!

So the size coming off ball lock QD is 1/4" right?

so, I could get something like

given the right sizes

**lamarguy** · 10-07-2010, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by humann_brewing

Thanks!

So the size coming off ball lock QD is 1/4" right?

The disconnects have flare fittings. I recommend you connect the disconnect to the pressure relief assembly with a hose that has swivel nut fittings on both ends:

and a female flare fitting on the pressure relief assembly:

That allows you to reuse and reconfigure as necessary. Here's an example of an assembly with a push-to-connect fitting instead of a flare fitting:

SpanishCastleAle · 10-07-2010, 05:19 PM

Was just looking at McMaster's flared-tube fittings and they don't have back-to-backs, aka 'double-swivels'. (i.e. two female flared-tube connections, back-to-back with a wrench hex sandwiched between). Surprised they don't have them as they can make some jobs much easier.

AA1271 on page 1 or KC171 on page 2