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View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 75 11.00%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 20 2.93%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.59%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 510 74.78%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 73 10.70%
Voters: 682. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 10-04-2010, 12:11 AM   #381
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Originally Posted by Dgonza9 View Post
How are you guys oxygenating your wort prior to pitch?
I have an inline oxygenator.


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Old 10-04-2010, 01:52 AM   #382
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How are you guys oxygenating your wort prior to pitch?
I recirculate back into my kettle during the big chill and have a Venturi device on the end of my kettle return hose. Works like a charm with tons of foam. Then, when I am knocking out to my fermenter it gets another last oxygenation with the same hose setup. Then I seal up the keg and attach my spunding valve.

On another note, this last lager I did on Saturday still hasn't done much other than a little psst when I release the tap connector relief valve. It is going so slow... I figured this one would be a rocket with all the yeast left in there from the first lager. Time will tell and pressure will tell me when it starts. Just wish it would do its thing already. This many years of brewing and I still want it to hurry up!


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Old 10-04-2010, 07:44 AM   #383
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I have read all 39 pages of this and have found it to be a very interesting idea. I am wondering about building a spunding valve modified sanke tap so I can ferment in a sanke. I ferment out in my garage (nowhere near my keezer and CO2).
But I was thinking for transfer to Corny kegs would I need to have my CO2 tank out there. Since the fermentation process has created CO2 (and carbed the beer) Couldn't I just put a gas line with corny gas post on a T before the spunding valve and a beer post on the beer out line. Wouldn't that work to equalize the pressure in the 2 vessels for counterpressure filling? Since the sanke fermenter would have enough initial pressure in it to pressurize the beer line, couldn't I just connect to the gas post to equalize the pressure between them, then hook up the beer out to the corny beer post and then place the corny lower than the Sanke to fill?
Would this work or have I got this confused?

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Old 10-04-2010, 11:44 AM   #384
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When you say, "open the relief valve on the cornies" do you mean a spunding valve? Or are you just saying that once the transfer starts I can release the pressure entirely in the destination kegs?

I'm thinking that I may not need spund valves to counter pressure fill my kegs. I suppose I can just hook the cornies up to my regulator set at 7 psi, and then set my sanke to 9 psi with a different co2 tank and regulator, which I do have.

Would this work? I have sanke spund valve and one corny spund valve. I'd like to use the "tee" filling idea posted above.
I thought I'd report on my 3 kegs at once in tandem Corny filling from a Sanke fermenter method since the topic has come up. I alluded to it about 3 pages ago. I've tested it a couple times with water, flat beer, and closed system carb'd beer. It is working well so far. I should probably do a new thread with this, but since it came up...

I thought of this and kind of hoped it would work since it didn't seem anyone else had done it on this forum (having asked a couple times). After going thru with it, I did notice that several commercial breweries do this. Notably, in my area, Cooperstown Brewery. They call it the "Octopus" and fill 7 kegs at a time right from the brite tank.

Anyhoo, the concept is that if you have your 3 kegs pressurized exactly the same, you can counterpressure fill at the exact same pace and end up with (near) equal volume transfer per keg. I do this by way of two items-

On the liquid side:
3 way pneumatic manifold (~$8 McMaster) that splits the input three ways at the same exact angle. I went with this instead of a cross because I figured two out of the three feeds would be at 90 degree angles and the third would be straight and I'd end up with unequal transfers (I'd love it if a fluid dynamicist would prove me wrong, I dunno). If you are trying to do just 2 kegs from a Sanke like the previous poster, I think a tee would be great.

On the gas side:
3 way gas manifold that has NO check valves in the shutoffs (since it is operating in the reverse direction it would in a kegerator). That's terminated with a corny post - so I could hop-scotch my spunding valve to and fro.


Technique:
1) Purge the 3 cornys at once and send out any remaining Starsan and pressurize to ~8 PSI.
2) Put the spunding valve on the gas manifold and calibrate to the kegs.
3) Hook up 'The Octopus' to the fermenter- without hooking up the three liquid ball locks (they are acting as a shut-off).
4) Hook up the gas to the fermenter and pressurize to the same PSI.
5) Put disconnects on the liquid in of each keg. Nothing happens since they are both at ~8 PSI.
6) Crank up the CO2 a couple PSI and watch the fun start. Alternately, turn down the spunding valve. Still not sure which is better, if one is.
7) Watch the frost line and drink a beer. Shut off CO2 when fermenter is empty.

Generally, I get about a quart margin-of-error of being exactly the same volume per keg. And then I have equal headroom in the kegs to force carb (which I can do 3 at once with the same manifold) or whatever I want to do. Also, I have tested this just filling two kegs and it works the same. Since the ball lock connectors are like shutoffs, it works just as well with a pair (gas/liq) just hangin out.

The part number for the pneumatic fitting from McMaster is: 5465K71. Unfortunately it's Aluminum. Stainless manifolds like this are real pricy.

Here are a few pics. The first is the liquid side (which is terminated with tri-clamp). I can do a video if anyone's interested. I'll be transferring in couple days- cold crashing right now.




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Old 10-04-2010, 10:04 PM   #385
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I'll be the first to say yes to a video. I do 10 gal batches in a keg/fermentor, plus I don't have anything new at the moment to build for my beer/porn affliction

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Old 10-04-2010, 11:59 PM   #386
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Originally Posted by stoneman View Post
I have read all 39 pages of this and have found it to be a very interesting idea. I am wondering about building a spunding valve modified sanke tap so I can ferment in a sanke. I ferment out in my garage (nowhere near my keezer and CO2).
But I was thinking for transfer to Corny kegs would I need to have my CO2 tank out there. Since the fermentation process has created CO2 (and carbed the beer) Couldn't I just put a gas line with corny gas post on a T before the spunding valve and a beer post on the beer out line. Wouldn't that work to equalize the pressure in the 2 vessels for counterpressure filling? Since the sanke fermenter would have enough initial pressure in it to pressurize the beer line, couldn't I just connect to the gas post to equalize the pressure between them, then hook up the beer out to the corny beer post and then place the corny lower than the Sanke to fill?
Would this work or have I got this confused?
I'm not quite clear on what you are asking/wanting to do. I am not very good with reading about things I don't use very often, like cornies. I hope someone can answer your specific questions. Other than that, SankeyPankey has a cool idea.
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Old 10-05-2010, 12:00 AM   #387
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SankePankey, video away!!!!!!!! Can't wait to see it in action.

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Old 10-05-2010, 12:21 AM   #388
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I would definately like to see it in action.

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Old 10-05-2010, 03:50 AM   #389
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I'm not quite clear on what you are asking/wanting to do. I am not very good with reading about things I don't use very often, like cornies. I hope someone can answer your specific questions. Other than that, SankeyPankey has a cool idea.
I quess what I am saying is couldn't you just use the natural pressure in the fermenter to pressurize the receiving vessel, then connect the beer line and open the relief valve on the receiver?
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Old 10-05-2010, 10:07 AM   #390
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Sure, give me a couple days to cold crash.

Here's a question for the crowd before I do that.

I have a piece of tubing at the end of my spunding valve, so I can catch any (if any) liquid in a tray.

How do I get it to stop singing at me? It's a constant A flat. Any clues?


Quote:
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I quess what I am saying is couldn't you just use the natural pressure in the fermenter to pressurize the receiving vessel, then connect the beer line and open the relief valve on the receiver?
I think that would work. This is kind of what I do, but not for the same reason. I use a 3 gal corny as a blow-off top cropper and then I take the blow-off tube and harvest from the bottom dump. (You'll see in my vid). A yeast brink, of sorts.

Long story short, I put the spunding valve on the 3 gal corny at .5 PSI to act as an airlock. It's not needed since the blowoff bubbles out the beverage dip tube, but I figure to keep oxygen away from the yeast. I could naturally carb my primary from the blow-off vessel by just turning up the valve if I wanted, but haven't tried that yet. For your method, then remove and jumper liquid out to liquid out and release pressure from the receiver with the spunding valve (more gentle/measurable than using the PRV on the lid-to avoid foaming).

I think using blowoff CO2 to purge ox from receiving kegs is a good idea. You'd have to avoid collecting trub like I am doing on purpose.

That's like the Reinheitsgebot version of kegging!


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