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View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 81 11.27%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 20 2.78%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.56%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 535 74.41%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 79 10.99%
Voters: 719. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 09-27-2010, 02:57 PM   #371
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Originally Posted by flananuts
Hey WortMonger, what lager recipe did you use and did you make any particular changes to your fermentation schedule? Did you stay in primary, do a DA rest, then lager all in one fermentation vessel? I'm prepping for my first lager and want to use my closed pressure rig.
I did a version of an American/Canadian pilsner; 18# Pilsner, 3.6# carapils, 3# flaked corn, and 3 pounds of Munton's extra light DME (used 1.5# for a starter, then 1.5# for carbonation [another side note, using DME to carbonate is not a good idea]). 15 gallon "end" recipe with Brewer's Gold (9.1%) at 60 min, Gr. Tradition (6.2%) at 30 min, and Gr. Select (4.7%) at 10 min. I used my WLP802 Czech Pils starter like an ingredient in the recipe, or a RWS if you will. I brewed a 12.5 gallon recipe and added that to a keg (at 45*F) with 1 gallon of pre-boiled water, then added the starter.

I was using a brand new spunding valve, and apparently it had a leak. I had the thing set to 7 psi (I believe) and the fermentation freezer set to 50*F (natural ramp from 45*F), it was going great. Took a gravity sample and saw I was a couple points shy of predicted finish, so I cranked the release shut on the SV and added 2 degrees to the thermostat to start my D-rest. I did another 2 degrees for two more days to get me to 56*F from 50*F primary temperature.

After the D-rest, I went to go check on my pressure. I was hoping for enough to carbonate, but all of it had leaked out. I untapped the keg hoping to trap enough CO2 to carb, but to no avail. I then lagered the beer on top of the yeast for a couple of weeks. Well, lesson learned about the SV. I boiled the remaining 1.5# of DME in about 2 quarts of water, added to another keg, then transferred into the new keg. Sealed it back up, and then attached my newly checked spunding valve to watch the pressure build. I rolled the keg into the house and let it sit at room temperature. This took forever to get me to carbonation volumes with DME (next time this happens I'm using corn sugar).

After it was carbonated, I let it mature for a couple of months then tapped for serving. It took until the last 10-12 pints to pour a crystal clear beverage that didn't look like chill-haze, but a very great beer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LooyvilleLarry
I brought the keg up slowly for a 3 day D-rest (even though I could not taste any diacetyl) when the ferm was 75% through. I think the ability to get a sample without introducing contamination risk is awesome.
Yeah, I couldn't taste any diacetyl but would rather be safe. I love getting samples with this technique. Sooooo easy! Just brewed a simple Pilsner only recipe Saturday. Same hops, same yeast, so can't wait to taste this one. It will be carbonated too, lol.
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Old 10-03-2010, 04:37 AM   #372
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I've read almost this entire thread without finding my question, so here goes. If I'm filling five gallon cornies from my sanke, how will I know when the first corny is full if I'm counter pressure filling it?

Probably a dumb question, but since I'm still in the planning stages, figured I'd ask those with a few brews under their belt this way.

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Old 10-03-2010, 04:58 AM   #373
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I've read almost this entire thread without finding my question, so here goes. If I'm filling five gallon cornies from my 11 gallon sanke, how will I know when the first corny is full if I'm counter pressure filling it?
You can weigh the keg or, if the beer is cold, watch the frost line.
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Old 10-03-2010, 05:18 AM   #374
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Weigh the keg as you are filling it. There are programs that will tell you, or you could figure it out for your vessel. Just put your keg on the scale and start filling until you reach your numbers. Sorry such a short response, but I just checked my threads and have to go. Hope to talk more later.

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Old 10-03-2010, 01:19 PM   #375
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Or, and I say a better approach, is to fill both kegs at the same time using a Tee. This way, it should eliminate any differences between the two vessels.

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Old 10-03-2010, 11:22 PM   #376
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Default Great idea...

Quote:
Originally Posted by LooyvilleLarry View Post
Or, and I say a better approach, is to fill both kegs at the same time using a Tee. This way, it should eliminate any differences between the two vessels.
I appreciate the ideas. The tee seems like a really smart way to go, although it would require me to build two spund valves. one for each corny.. Getting kinda pricey.

Is it possible to fill cornys from your sanke while you have the lid open? I mean, will it foam like mad if you ferment no higher than 7psi? I'm less concerned about contamination and carbonation. Spent some $$$ this month already on two spund valves. Third isn't likely to happen.

Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:28 PM   #377
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If you are filling from a sanke (presumed), make the T to 2xBlack (out) connectors x 1 connector to the sanke.

Purge the cornies with co2, then when you start to transfer, open the relief valve on the cornies.

The incoming beer goes to the bottom, pushing the CO2 out as it fills.

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Old 10-03-2010, 11:47 PM   #378
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When you say, "open the relief valve on the cornies" do you mean a spunding valve? Or are you just saying that once the transfer starts I can release the pressure entirely in the destination kegs?

I'm thinking that I may not need spund valves to counter pressure fill my kegs. I suppose I can just hook the cornies up to my regulator set at 7 psi, and then set my sanke to 9 psi with a different co2 tank and regulator, which I do have.

Would this work? I have sanke spund valve and one corny spund valve. I'd like to use the "tee" filling idea posted above.

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Old 10-03-2010, 11:53 PM   #379
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How are you guys oxygenating your wort prior to pitch?

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Old 10-04-2010, 12:10 AM   #380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgonza9 View Post
When you say, "open the relief valve on the cornies" do you mean a spunding valve? Or are you just saying that once the transfer starts I can release the pressure entirely in the destination kegs?
The relief valve in the center of the corny lid, no spunding valve needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgonza9 View Post
I'm thinking that I may not need spund valves to counter pressure fill my kegs. I suppose I can just hook the cornies up to my regulator set at 7 psi, and then set my sanke to 9 psi with a different co2 tank and regulator, which I do have.

Would this work? I have sanke spund valve and one corny spund valve. I'd like to use the "tee" filling idea posted above.
Yes, that is exactly right.
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