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View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 81 11.27%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 20 2.78%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.56%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 535 74.41%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 79 10.99%
Voters: 719. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 08-20-2013, 07:32 PM   #1821
MyNameIsPaul
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Man, so much info in this thread! Thanks for all the contributions, everyone.

I'm about to try this for the first time and wonder if someone could critique my process:

-Make wort!
-Cool wort!
-Put wort in sanitized corny keg
-Add some Fermcap S
-Pitch yeast
-Purge with CO2
-Set spunding set up to 5 PSI
-Ferment at 65* (Or whichever temp for that yeast)
-After approx 3-4 days, turn spunding valve up to 30 PSI
-Wait a week
-Crash Cool to 34*
-Wait a week
-Release most of the pressure via spunding valve adjustments
-Use Cobra tap to clear dip tube/keg of trub/sediment
-When line runs clear, transfer via jumper to cold, waiting corny via a few PSI
-Enjoy!

What says the hive?
-

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Last edited by MyNameIsPaul; 08-20-2013 at 07:32 PM. Reason: Forgot step!
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:24 PM   #1822
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This has probably already been covered, but I don't have the time to read the entire thread and a cursory search didn't yield anything.

What do you guys make of Greg Noonan's assertion that "during the primary fermentation, it is essential that virtually no carbon dioxide remain in solution, since it carries malt and hop debris into the head and sulphur compounds and esters out of the ferment"? (New Brewing Lager Beer, Vol. 2, p. 171).

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Old 08-20-2013, 10:02 PM   #1823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyNameIsPaul View Post
Man, so much info in this thread! Thanks for all the contributions, everyone.

I'm about to try this for the first time and wonder if someone could critique my process:

-Make wort!
-Cool wort!
-Put wort in sanitized corny keg
-Add some Fermcap S
-Pitch yeast
-Purge with CO2
-Set spunding set up to 5 PSI
-Ferment at 65* (Or whichever temp for that yeast)
-After approx 3-4 days, turn spunding valve up to 30 PSI
-Wait a week
-Crash Cool to 34*
-Wait a week
-Release most of the pressure via spunding valve adjustments
-Use Cobra tap to clear dip tube/keg of trub/sediment
-When line runs clear, transfer via jumper to cold, waiting corny via a few PSI
-Enjoy!

What says the hive?
-
What do you do for wort oxygenation, and why are you purging the keg with CO2 before fermentation has started?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gavagai View Post
This has probably already been covered, but I don't have the time to read the entire thread and a cursory search didn't yield anything.

What do you guys make of Greg Noonan's assertion that "during the primary fermentation, it is essential that virtually no carbon dioxide remain in solution, since it carries malt and hop debris into the head and sulphur compounds and esters out of the ferment"? (New Brewing Lager Beer, Vol. 2, p. 171).
It is true that the CO2 carries a lot of nasty stuff out of solution. That's why breweries who use CO2 recapture systems require really high tech filters and scrubbers. Most of those compounds are created in the earlier most active stages of fermentation, and carried away whether you use a spunding valve or not (unless you have it set really really high). I'm sure there are slightly higher levels of those compounds in the beer when more CO2 is left in solution. For many yeast strains the wort being under pressure reduces many of those same undesireable compounds, so in some ways it could counteract the fact that there's more CO2 in solution. I imagine it would be yeast strain dependent.
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:33 PM   #1824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuanMoore View Post
What do you do for wort oxygenation, and why are you purging the keg with CO2 before fermentation has started?


Thanks for the catch, yes, I need to get some oxygen in there, not CO2. Planning on a red oxy bottle from Home Depot connected to a liquid in quick disconnect.

Other than that, how am I looking?
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:43 AM   #1825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyNameIsPaul View Post

Thanks for the catch, yes, I need to get some oxygen in there, not CO2. Planning on a red oxy bottle from Home Depot connected to a liquid in quick disconnect.

Other than that, how am I looking?
Looks good to me. You'll probably find that with the small diameter liquid diptube of a corny keg it will clog with yeast cake one out of 5 times, and you'll either need to bump the pressure or remove the diptube and clean it out before you can transfer.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:09 AM   #1826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuanMoore View Post

Looks good to me. You'll probably find that with the small diameter liquid diptube of a corny keg it will clog with yeast cake one out of 5 times, and you'll either need to bump the pressure or remove the diptube and clean it out before you can transfer.
Thanks Juan!
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:05 PM   #1827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyNameIsPaul View Post

I'm about to try this for the first time and wonder if someone could critique my process:

-Purge with CO2
-Set spunding set up to 5 PSI
-Release most of the pressure via spunding valve adjustments
Use Cobra tap to clear dip tube/keg of trub/sediment
When line runs clear, transfer via jumper to cold, waiting corny via a few PSI
I'll remark on these 3 points;
-My aeration is done by rolling kegs briskly and burping lids.
-Numerous pressure schedules out there, I have one posted 2 pages back.
-Try pressure transferring and keep all/most of the pressure you have on transfer day. Example, this is what I had in my fermenting corny at the time - Day 33 - pressure transferred to serving kegs
(pressure was 10.0 psi @ 33 F, 2.63 volumes of CO2)

For a more detailed description of pressure transferring to discard the first bit of yeast coming through the lines, let me know and I'll do a separate post.

One more thing; hop debris WILL clog your poppets.

You can view my photos at the link provided below. Hope this helps!
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:12 PM   #1828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MadScientist View Post
I'll remark on these 3 points;
-My aeration is done by rolling kegs briskly and burping lids.
-Numerous pressure schedules out there, I have one posted 2 pages back.
-Try pressure transferring and keep all/most of the pressure you have on transfer day. Example, this is what I had in my fermenting corny at the time - Day 33 - pressure transferred to serving kegs
(pressure was 10.0 psi @ 33 F, 2.63 volumes of CO2)

For a more detailed description of pressure transferring to discard the first bit of yeast coming through the lines, let me know and I'll do a separate post.

One more thing; hop debris WILL clog your poppets.

You can view my photos at the link provided below. Hope this helps!
Thanks MS! My settings show 40 posts/page so I'll have to find out which one you're referring to. I use a 40 mesh Hop Spider so no hops in the fermenter for me =)
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:25 PM   #1829
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Originally Posted by haeffnkr View Post
My keg is leaking at the coupler/spear.
I can see bubbles via starsan and my gauge is going down in pressure....
I only got the gauge up to 12 psi and it did not got higher...now it is going down, as fermentation is over.

I did not get the l snap ring in completely, is maybe the spear oring leaking because of this?
The snap ring was in far enough that I got the coupler on without issue ... so I thought.

Any tips on how to get the snap ring in... completely?
I used vise grips and worked it around the grove best I could.

edit - I meant spiral ring

thanks Kevin
In case anyone needs help in the future.

I pulled out the coupler and used 3 small vise grips, as clamps to get the spiral ring all the way down and around and seated.
The 3rd vise grip was the key, I would probably use 4 next time, as it held ring in place while I worked it in the grove and did NOT come out as I worked in place, as previously.

Thus stopping the leak around the spear.

thanks Kevin
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:20 PM   #1830
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I've got my spunding setup complete now, woohoo! One snag: I installed the glycerine-filled gauge into a brass T, and on the gauge there is a rubber cap on top with a sticker next to it that says "After Installation Cut Top As Shown" It's basically a tiny rubber nipple that you snip off with scissors. So I snipped it, and now the dang thing leaks glycerine from there! What was the purpose of cutting that nip off, does anyone know? If this thing leaks and goes dry, will it be effected? Here is the gauge in question: http://www.amazon.com/Zenport-LPG30-Zen-Tek-Glycerin-Pressure/dp/B004IRCADG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1378394433&sr=8-1&keywords=0-30+PSI+gauge

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