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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > Closed-system pressurized fermentation technique!
View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 83 11.16%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 21 2.82%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.54%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 556 74.73%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 80 10.75%
Voters: 744. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 06-30-2013, 06:20 PM   #1781
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Originally Posted by WortMonger View Post
How did the ramp go? Did you get up to wanted CO2 volumes? Just curious how well it worked for you.
It worked great. The beer cleaned up nicely. It didn't come out completely carbed. I don't think I let it sit at that level long enough. I either have a very small leak or it needed more co2 to absorb into the beer. It's slightly under carbed, but nothing a day or two at my serving pressure can't fix.

I have a red irish ale going now that is fermenting warmer than I expected (72 F). However, I believe I read that with this technique you don't have to worry as much about esters as they are suppressed more under pressure. I'll see if things settle out by tonight to the high 60s.
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Old 07-01-2013, 04:07 PM   #1782
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I brewed a Kolsch yesterday and tried out the medical O2 aeration method. I hooked up the O2 to the gas port and pressurized for 1 minute and then shook it for a few minutes. I hooked up the spunding valve and it showed 6psi so I dropped it down to 3psi where it's currently fermenting right along. Hopefully adding the pure O2 will take care of the missed FG's that I have been having lately.

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Old 07-05-2013, 01:21 AM   #1783
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I've read through most of this thread over the past few months and decided to give this approach a try on my next brew day. I've got one question (probably more later) on the process: what's the most effective way of pitching yeast? I've seen two approaches mentioned here:

1. Remove spear, transfer wort to keg/fermenter, pitch yeast, re-insert spear. Issue with this is you are not purely closed-system from kettle to fermenter; plus dealing with a sanke keg spear is a big unknown for me so I'm not sure if it will cause issues when trying to close it back up. Not sure if either is really an issue.

2. Pitch yeast into chilled wort in brew kettle (I use an immersion chiller), then transfer to keg/fermenter through tap's beer-out port. Issue with this is I'll be using a hop filter on the kettle output; I'm thinking the filter might block some yeast, especially if gummed up with hop & break.

I'm still in system-testing mode; my spunding valve seems to be controlling pressure nicely:

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Old 07-05-2013, 05:41 AM   #1784
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Borgstrom,


Is that a beer nut to 1/2" fitting on your Sankey tap, and if so where did you get it?

As far as pitching yeast, I use a method different from the two you mentioned. I use a plate chiller, so I can't pitch into the kettle. Here is my method.

Ten gallon batch in a 1/2BBL Sankey gravity fed with the help of a wort wizard. Transfer 2-3 gallons from the kettle through the hop back and plate chiller. Stop the transfer and remove the transfer hose from the Sankey and put a funnel in the tap. Pour yeast slurry into funnel (the wort wizard helps a lot here because it creates a vacuum in the keg and sucks the yeast in.) Once the yeast is pitched, put the hose back and continue transfer from kettle.

Hope this helps.

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Old 07-05-2013, 06:28 AM   #1785
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RoundKid -- it's a shutoff valve from Micromatic.

Cool idea with the wort wizard...had never heard of that...not sure how easy it would be to use with my immersion chiller.

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Old 07-08-2013, 11:45 PM   #1786
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I redesigned my gas line . I over engineered the last one that had a valve on one line, didn't need it.

Quick disconnects function whether one or two fermenters are hooked up.

6/5/2013 by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr

Pressure fermenting 9.5 gallons of a Rogue Dead Guy.

6/5/2013 by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr

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Old 07-09-2013, 04:14 AM   #1787
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Quote:
...not sure how easy it would be to use with my immersion chiller.
The type of chiller doesn't matter, how do you transfer from the kettle? Do you use an auto-syphon or do you have a valve?
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:01 AM   #1788
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Hi All,

I have read through this thread and the majority of the people do not cut the dip tubes, but I dont understand why?

I have about 1 to 1 1/2" of yeast and trub in my 6.5 gallon fermenters.
I usually scale up my recipes to finish at 6.75 gallons of wort in the kettle so that end up with 5 gallons of clear beer in my serving keg.

So with this pressurized system if I dont cut the sanke spear short I will get pint(s) of sludge any time I try to get a sample or when I transfer.

Please help me understand this process.

thanks Kevin

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Old 07-09-2013, 06:31 AM   #1789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haeffnkr
Hi All,

I have read through this thread and the majority of the people do not cut the dip tubes, but I dont understand why?

I have about 1 to 1 1/2" of yeast and trub in my 6.5 gallon fermenters.
I usually scale up my recipes to finish at 6.75 gallons of wort in the kettle so that end up with 5 gallons of clear beer in my serving keg.

So with this pressurized system if I dont cut the sanke spear short I will get pint(s) of sludge any time I try to get a sample or when I transfer.

Please help me understand this process.

thanks Kevin
First off, yes you will get some sludge when you sample, and when you start to transfer, but not pints worth. I ferment in unmodified sankey kegs. Last night I took a sample (about 4oz), I shook it up and degassed it for a while and then let it sit for about 20 minutes. It settled and there was a layer of yeast/trub in the glass but not much, maybe 1/2 cm. Then I decanted the liquid off into my sample beaker to take a gravity reading. No big deal.

When the beer is done and cold crashed, the yeast compacts and most of it stays put. I pour about 8-10oz in a glass before I start the transfer (it is cold, carbonated beer-I drink it). Then switch to my transfer hose and go for it. If you are fermenting under pressure, you are probably also kegging, so any yeast that gets in will just settle out anyway. You probably get some yeast when you transfer now, so what is the difference? Have you ever let your racking cane slip down into the trub? It is not like the whole cake flows into the cane, just a small divot around it, the same is true inside the keg. Once the divot is gone, everything else stays put.

If you cut the spear, you create other problems.

First, you leave beer in the keg! I don't know how much, but definitely some.

Second, it makes it harder to clean. You can't drain it completely while the keg is upright (I use an air compressor) and when you rinse it with a hose or pump upside down the water will not blast against the bottom and cascade down the sides.

Third, it makes it harder to harvest yeast. Because you leave liquid in the keg, when you try to rinse the yeast and push it out, you won't be able to get all of it.

Fourth, if you ever want to use it as an actual keg again, you want it to be complete.

Somewhere in this massive thread I believe WortMonger (the Godfather so to speak) said he cut his spear and wished he hadn't.

Finally, I would say this. You don't know until you try it. Do it at least once with the spear unmodified and see how it goes. You can always cut the spear later, you can't reattach it when you wish you hadn't cut it.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:46 AM   #1790
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The type of chiller doesn't matter, how do you transfer from the kettle? Do you use an auto-syphon or do you have a valve?
I've got a 1.5" tri-clamp butterfly valve
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