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View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 75 11.00%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 20 2.93%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.59%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 510 74.78%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 73 10.70%
Voters: 682. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 03-20-2013, 11:30 PM   #1721
Kirbuno
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Default Spunding Valves

Those valves are probably the coolest thing ever but I still like the cheapies. I bought two of the higher pressure ones and one of the lighter pressure one, and have been using these for about a year and a half now with no issues. I was poo-pooed for getting them but I still like them because they are simple don't get seem to get clogged and can be easily cleaned.

The first is rated as adjustable for 0-20 psi I find it really only holds at about 18 psi or lower, which is great for transfer from keg to corny keg as it has a finer adjustment, it is McMaster-Car #48935K25 found on this page:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/488/=lyrxni
I have been having better luck keeping my final fermentation below 18 anyways. I can always connect the corny's to a higher psi later. (Addendum: After thinking about it for a while I remembered why I use this one for transfer to corny kegs rather than for fermenting. It tends to leak pressure slowly over a period of time. Not important during transfer or initial fermentation but a problem during the last phase of fermenting.)

The second and the one I bought first and still use most using the yellow or weakest spring which is rated at 25 - 50 psi, but I find easily adjustable down to about 2-3 psi and up, is a bit sensitive to adjust, but easy if your tolerance is within + or _ 1 psi, which for me is way close enough. Again simple contruction easy to clean, uses the same body as the first but has a stronger spring and a silicone and brass insert instead of a spring and ball bearing.
This is McMaster-Carr # 50265K23 found on this page:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#brass-relief-valves/=lys25o

If you are on a budget like I am, I love the prices of these, I can buy two or three, and don't have to interchange my setups so much. I would recommend them to anyone who can't taste the difference between a beer that was mostly fermented at 9 psi or 11 psi. Yes they are brass but the beer shouldn't be touching them anyway.
My two cents.







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Old 03-22-2013, 05:06 PM   #1722
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Default

I'll probably purchase 2 of the 25-50 PSI versions you mentioned above since you can adjust them to 2-3PSI. It appears two of my other ones I got from grainger for $30 a piece are shot.

Thanks for the tip.

How are people using fining agents like gelatin when fermenting under pressure? Are you putting the gelatin in your serving kegs and just accepting that your first few draws will pull the crap that gelatin settles out?



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Old 03-22-2013, 08:41 PM   #1723
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Default Word of caution on the 25-50 psi version.

[QUOTE=-MG-;5033307]I'll probably purchase 2 of the 25-50 PSI versions you mentioned above since you can adjust them to 2-3PSI. It appears two of my other ones I got from grainger for $30 a piece are shot.


At the lower end it takes a gentle hand to adjust it just right, and don't over-tighten the valve or you will cut into the soft pad, making it harder to adjust later.

Good luck with these, I think you will like them once you get used to them.

I have been thinking about using geletin for some of my less clear beers but have thought myself out of it again. I'd be interested in the reply as well.

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Old 03-30-2013, 04:55 PM   #1724
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Haven't read the whole thread but has anyone cut the gas tube shorter. You could probably cut close to 3/4" off and still use it as normal. Might save a little bit of blow off

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Old 04-03-2013, 07:57 PM   #1725
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I'm interested to try this method in Corny kegs.
How do you take gravity reading?

I assume that you can attach picnic tap on liquid side, but since it goes to bottom it will mostly pick yeast and trub material...

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Old 04-03-2013, 08:14 PM   #1726
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diS, Yes, that's how you do it. I first draw a little out into a jar (big one), then draw my sample into a small jar. You need to de-gas the sample by putting a lid on it and shaking it. I usually wait several hours, as I am not in a hurry.


2/20/2013 by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr


2/20/2013 by Mad Scientist Brewhaus, on Flickr

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Old 04-03-2013, 08:26 PM   #1727
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diS View Post
I'm interested to try this method in Corny kegs.
How do you take gravity reading?

I assume that you can attach picnic tap on liquid side, but since it goes to bottom it will mostly pick yeast and trub material...
I leave a block of wood (or a wedge would work) under the side of the Corny where the long dip tube is (my fermenting Corny has the tube come down the side, not the center). That gets the tube out of the worst of the muck. I still have to do a couple pulls on the Picnic Tap to clear things, but it's usually a lot less than when I leave the Corny flat. Results vary by the type of yeast and how much trub is in there, of course.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:08 PM   #1728
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Invest in a refractometer. You still get trub/yeast but you need only a few drops, and you don' have to wait for temp or CO2. Also you won't know how you did without one on the brew side once you start using it. I have been loving mine.

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Old 04-04-2013, 01:14 AM   #1729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirbuno View Post
Invest in a refractometer. You still get trub/yeast but you need only a few drops, and you don' have to wait for temp or CO2. Also you won't know how you did without one on the brew side once you start using it. I have been loving mine.
love mine too.. there are plenty of calcs out there that will adjust for fermented beer as well.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:25 AM   #1730
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I don't like refractometer for FG reading since it always needs different correction factor (at least my cheap e-bay refractometer).
I'll try with picnic tap and degassing method, thanks.



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