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**pickles** · 11-12-2012, 11:20 PM

Do you use the kolsch yeast for APAs? I've always liked how clean my lagers turned out (only brewed a few) but I lager them traditionally. I assume your not fermenting the kolsch yeast in the mid-50's F right?

Anyone have a reliable APA or IPA recipe they've brewed with this technique? I'd love to get that dialed in as thats the majority of what I keep on tap.

**WortMonger** · 11-13-2012, 08:41 AM

Never used it on either of those styles, but I don't see why not. I have only used it in the mid 60's since it says optimum is 65-69*F.

My APA is simple, pale/crystal 40*L/munich or some other small specialty addition and then my hops. I usually stick to middle of style on my numbers. Best APA to date was just pale/crystal 40 and a triple decoction.

**pickles** · 11-13-2012, 12:46 PM

What yeast would you use for your APAs?

**WortMonger** · 11-13-2012, 04:02 PM

Wlp001, cal V, or this dry English ale I have been using.

Haputanlas · 11-30-2012, 07:49 PM

God, what a great find for a thread.

Something new for me to spend more time on!!!

Hopefully a future project that I can start in the next 3-4 months. Thanks for the info and the million previous replies with good info.

**WortMonger** · 11-30-2012, 08:51 PM

Welcome aboard! Let us all know how it worked for you.

Pinguen · 12-02-2012, 07:49 PM

I've been reading through the thread 56 pages and counting. Did anyone ever find a satisfactory way of "dry hopping" with an all Sanke setup. We are opening a nano-brewery and I'm looking at incorporating closed fermentation into our setup. Moving to a second keg under pressure doesn't seam like a big deal to me. I would prefer to have some method for either pellet or whole, sometimes you can only get one or the other.

Has anyone tried using a mesh over the spear in a manner similar to the sure screen for a corny? How has transferring with the in line Randal or hop rocket setup compared? Could that be done cold right from the cold crash into the serving kegs? A 15 gallon Corny with a sure screen as a dedicated dry hopping vessel could be an option for us. I've never tried hop tea but without the scrubbing action of the yeast off gassing maybe it could work for us. Am I worrying about nothing just use pellet and it drops out in the cold crash?

Sorry for the mass of questions but being able to get that dry hopped nature into the finished product is a crucial point for me as I tend to be of the opinion that if it isn't dry hopped it isn't an IPA. Similar to what Wortmonger said in another post when I have a problem the potential solutions keep me up at night dreaming logical dreams and my smartphone gives me way to easy access to research when I should be sleeping for my 345am job.

Thank you for any help and the already accumulated wealth of information in this thread.

**WortMonger** · 12-03-2012, 04:13 PM

I'm still thinking the idea of a pump and a filter housing fitted to keep the hops it contains separate. Maybe even rig two back to back so that you are filtering after dry hopping. This takes it into a whole other realm I have been thinking of called accelerated maturation like the big boys do. Bud uses beechwood for more surface area with the yeast to clean up their beers. Others, I read, use a filtered apparatus containing a huge amount of yeast to push the beer through for fermentation finishing clean up. This idea of the continuous filter would allow more contact area for the yeast as well. As for priming the pump, unless you go peristaltic, we have the pressure already needed in our fermentors to push up and out the beer port to prime the pump, "filter," and return atop the keg via the gas port. Since pressure would equalize in the system rather quickly, via the pressure relief in the housings, and you could always flush the filters with CO2 prior to hook up, it shouldn't have any problems recirculating through the setup. This is all in my head remember, so it is untested. But, I believe it would.

brieuxster · 12-06-2012, 08:06 PM

I need some help finishing the optimum hose and ball lock keg connections to this idea.
"Something Like a 15.5 gallon Mr. Beer" THE excellent gift for a new home brewer. In addition to the usual auto syphon, star-san, oxyclean, and Hydrometer, fresh 6 US Gal box of wort and liquid yeast, equipment to pressure ferment, and a 2.5 gal corny keg tailgate kit. one would need some bits to enable Sanke to Corny and Corny to Corny pressurized transfers.

Relief Valve and Pressure Gauge Norgren NRG-V07-200-NNKA and NRG-18-013-203 and This Sanke D Coupler

The tailgate kit comes with one cobra tap and CO2 cartridge with the gas and liquid Corny connections. I want to box this up before Dec 25

**WortMonger** · 12-07-2012, 01:16 PM

All you would need to do is buy some quick-disconnects to add to all your hose ends. Then when you have a sanke connection you want to transfer into a corny connection you just snap the two together and you have it. As for optimum hose length... Depends if you mean serving hose or transfer hose. If you have the right amount for serving ( I estimate the maximum psi of your serving keg / 2 in feet). Example, 12psi serving pressure = 6 feet of 3/16" ID beer tubing. Transfer tubing is up to you. I would buy a bigger CO2 bottle though to transfer with or that setup could get expensive fast.

If you didn't want to buy the quick-disconnects you could always just buy enough connectors for corny and beer nut/ tailpieces for sanke and have dedicated transfer, serving, etc hoses/ tubing. I only use disconnects on my gas bottle now and have dedicated tubing and fittings for the liquid side. Makes getting the bottle out of the kegerator to do a transfer on another beer easy without having to untap and take apart fittings from the keg I'm currently drinking.