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View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 81 11.33%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 20 2.80%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.56%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 533 74.55%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 77 10.77%
Voters: 715. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 05-16-2012, 12:28 PM   #1481
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I fermented at 52 degrees then layered down to 32 for three weeks. This would have been a great beer to be able to dump trub from.

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Old 05-21-2012, 04:38 AM   #1482
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Need a little help getting a spear out of a miller Keg. I actually bought the drop in sanke removal tool that is supposed to compress the spear It compresses my other Miller keg's spear enough to remove the ring easily. This one, not so much. It released the pressure, but does not compress the spear enough to make o ring removal feasible. In the past, I just brute force got the ring out. I'm hoping to use finesse on this one.

I'm thinking I may have one of those screw in type miller spears. Or maybe I just needs some advice on how to proceed.

Can anyone lend a hand? My feeling is it might be a screw in type spear

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Old 05-21-2012, 05:20 AM   #1483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgonza9 View Post
Need a little help getting a spear out of a miller Keg. I actually bought the drop in sanke removal tool that is supposed to compress the spear It compresses my other Miller keg's spear enough to remove the ring easily. This one, not so much. It released the pressure, but does not compress the spear enough to make o ring removal feasible. In the past, I just brute force got the ring out. I'm hoping to use finesse on this one.

I'm thinking I may have one of those screw in type miller spears. Or maybe I just needs some advice on how to proceed.

Can anyone lend a hand? My feeling is it might be a screw in type spear
Nevermind, as Wort and a few others mentioned, get the mini screwdriver involved. I'm amazed at how easily I got that spiral ring out, back in and out again. The drop in sanke removal tool is actually pretty handy. Anyway, I'm back in business. I had moved to a Derrin's setup for a while because the snap rings popped off a few times and drained my CO2 tank. With the drop in valve removal tool, I can easily get the snap rings all the way in. I pressure tested to 25psi with no problems. Even better, that spiral ring is easy to get in and out with the tool and a mini screwdriver.

I'm psyched to be back to using the modified sanke coupler. I know many like their Derrin's setup. Wasn't for me, however. Too many pieces sticking out. Always felt like I needed a third hand when trying to get it locked on. Always a small leak if I tried to force carb during a cold crash.

Anyway, very psyched to return to fermenting in a sanke and with the modified coupler.

Cheers.
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Old 05-22-2012, 01:20 AM   #1484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgonza9

Nevermind, as Wort and a few others mentioned, get the mini screwdriver involved. I'm amazed at how easily I got that spiral ring out, back in and out again. The drop in sanke removal tool is actually pretty handy. Anyway, I'm back in business. I had moved to a Derrin's setup for a while because the snap rings popped off a few times and drained my CO2 tank. With the drop in valve removal tool, I can easily get the snap rings all the way in. I pressure tested to 25psi with no problems. Even better, that spiral ring is easy to get in and out with the tool and a mini screwdriver.

I'm psyched to be back to using the modified sanke coupler. I know many like their Derrin's setup. Wasn't for me, however. Too many pieces sticking out. Always felt like I needed a third hand when trying to get it locked on. Always a small leak if I tried to force carb during a cold crash.

Anyway, very psyched to return to fermenting in a sanke and with the modified coupler.

Cheers.
I bought the tool as well. Pretty tough to swallow the price when guys tell you they have no problem putting the ring back on. Some of the time I didn't have any trouble either, but when I did I was livid. Now I have no problem all of the time and life is good. I use the little screwdriver as well and it works great for me.
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:05 PM   #1485
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O. M. G. What an epic thread!

I just got done reading this entire thread and I have a question that isn't answered here..

I'm an Ale brewer only. I keg my beers, but serve out of 3 gal kegs. I normally ferment in an Ale Pail, but I have a functioning 10 gallon Corny. I don't have the ability to crash cool my entire batch - 10 gal corny won't fit in my beverage fridge..

So, I ask - is there any value for a brewer like me in Closed System Pressurized Fermenting with a Spunding Valve if I can't crash cool the entire batch before transferring to serving kegs?

I was thinking the value for me would be not having to mess with the swamp cooler/ice bottle situation (ester control) and also using the Spunding valve to add a little sparkle (ie free carbonation) to my beer at the end of fermenting.

Anybody else in my situation but employing this technique?

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Old 05-23-2012, 10:30 PM   #1486
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Default Relief Valve

Hey guys,

So for reasons unbeknownst to me, my relief valve (mcmaster 99045K46) has started leaking.

Does anyone have alternative valve recommendations? $37 is pricey for a piece of equipment that has been lightly handled, sustained no trauma and hasn't lasted 2 years....



Cheers!

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Old 05-23-2012, 11:07 PM   #1487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jknapp View Post
O. M. G. What an epic thread!

I just got done reading this entire thread and I have a question that isn't answered here..

I'm an Ale brewer only. I keg my beers, but serve out of 3 gal kegs. I normally ferment in an Ale Pail, but I have a functioning 10 gallon Corny. I don't have the ability to crash cool my entire batch - 10 gal corny won't fit in my beverage fridge..

So, I ask - is there any value for a brewer like me in Closed System Pressurized Fermenting with a Spunding Valve if I can't crash cool the entire batch before transferring to serving kegs?

I was thinking the value for me would be not having to mess with the swamp cooler/ice bottle situation (ester control) and also using the Spunding valve to add a little sparkle (ie free carbonation) to my beer at the end of fermenting.

Anybody else in my situation but employing this technique?
I don't know that crash cooling is any more or any less necessary with pressurized fermentation than it is with non-pressurized fermentation. A cold crash will get your yeast cake nice and compact, so you might need to consider cutting your diptube a bit if you plan on skipping the crash. That may or may not be necessary, so I'd give it a few trial batches before doing anything permanent. Otherwise, I see no problem. One of the advantages of pressurized fermentation is shorter turn-around time. You'd be undercutting that a bit without a cold crash, but that's only a problem if you're in a hurry.

That said, temperature control is still very important, even though you can stand to be a few degrees warmer. If you get a cold swing towards the end of fermentation, you'll still be vulnerable to underattenuation.
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Old 05-24-2012, 02:19 AM   #1488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lagavulin
Hey guys,

So for reasons unbeknownst to me, my relief valve (mcmaster 99045K46) has started leaking.

Does anyone have alternative valve recommendations? $37 is pricey for a piece of equipment that has been lightly handled, sustained no trauma and hasn't lasted 2 years....

Cheers!
Try taking it apart and cleaning in soap and water. They're pretty simple...but the least bit of gunk will cause them to leak.
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Old 05-24-2012, 12:32 PM   #1489
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Theres a brass one that goes to 100psi at Grainger, a little cheaper and definitely more robust. I agree though that all you need to do is loosen the spring up all the way and clean it out. You know theres going to be a little bit of something in the seal area.

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Old 05-24-2012, 01:16 PM   #1490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lagavulin View Post
Hey guys,

So for reasons unbeknownst to me, my relief valve (mcmaster 99045K46) has started leaking.

Does anyone have alternative valve recommendations? $37 is pricey for a piece of equipment that has been lightly handled, sustained no trauma and hasn't lasted 2 years....



Cheers!
What I use:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CDI...e-Relief-4TK26
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