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View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 41 9.98%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 11 2.68%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 3 0.73%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 317 77.13%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 39 9.49%
Voters: 411. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 05-12-2008, 05:22 AM   #121
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I have a few questions for anyone who has tried this fermentation technique:
Will beers, such as a weizen, still taste right when fermented under pressure?
Will the yeast be as sesitive to temp swings as they are when fermented under an airlock? I want to try a lager. Will the dry yeast or liquid yeast work better with this technique?

Wortmonger: Where did you find the cheap back pressure relief valve?

Thanks for the interesting thread!


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Old 05-12-2008, 07:23 AM   #122
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A spreadsheet shows the equivalent volumes.

Because the Corny is so narrow it most likely would be less wort volume. I would think 3.5 gallons is all they can work with or you loose beer out the vent.

Sanke
T volume 15.500
batch 12.000
percent 77.42%

Corny
T volume 5.250
batch 4.065
percent 77.42%

I feel that it is worth it if you can only store corny's in a fridge and have plenty of them although cleaning so many of them would be quite a chore.

I would and have used Sanky's for fermentation and they are quite heavy to say the least but they are not hard to clean at all as described earlier in this thread.

I do not have all my equipment in one place and so I have to cart the wort to the fermenter and pump it into the fermenter which is not hard to do. I have my burner on a cart with wheels so I can finish cooling the wort in the back yard and then move it to the fermenter and let the trub settle. As soon as the trub is on the bottom I start the pump and fill the Sankey in the fridge and pitch the yeast. I made a relief valve and hold at 15 Psi after 3 days @ 65 F wort temperature. I use a Ranco controller to keep it at 62F (in the inside air) but after 4 days I tape it to the Keg. The reason for this is to minimize run time for the compressor and have more stable temperature for the beer. If you tape the sensor to the keg right away it cools the beer way to fast for the yeast. I use WLP001 yeast most of the time for ales and WLP830 for my lagers. In a hurry (Nottingham).
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Tap 1: Bill's House Ale II, Tap 2: German Hefewizen, Tap 3: Nut Brown Ale
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Last edited by WBC; 05-12-2008 at 07:26 AM.
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Old 05-14-2008, 07:05 PM   #123
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Default Don't go cheap!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dogtown brewing View Post
I have a few questions for anyone who has tried this fermentation technique:
Will beers, such as a weizen, still taste right when fermented under pressure?
Will the yeast be as sesitive to temp swings as they are when fermented under an airlock? I want to try a lager. Will the dry yeast or liquid yeast work better with this technique?

Wortmonger: Where did you find the cheap back pressure relief valve?

Thanks for the interesting thread!
Don't go cheap on your spunding valve. I told Poindexter what I would buy if doing it all over and his valve is superior to what I use. Here is post #39 in this thread about what I recommend he buy.

As for will beers like weizens taste right, I don't see how this would change them in any way. I ferment at the same temperatures I would normally, even though with this system you are supposed to have no ill effects at higher temperatures. The only thing I would be worried about in fermenting a hefe-weizen or any wheat beer is the krausen height. I don't think this is an issue though as Poindexter has done some experiments closer to this with his keg ferments. Here is his thread on his ferments both under pressure and with a keg blow off to see how much yeast came out during blow off. I can only "talk" about 12 gallons in a 15.5 gallon fermenter. I never have any problems with anything getting in my spunding valve except when I forgot to set my valve low enough and had to bleed pressure quickly. I got a couple of shots of foam and then after cleaning up the mess it was fine and nothing else made it to the outside of the fermenter.

Temperature swings I couldn't comment on either as I have mine in a temperature controlled lagerator during ferment. I wouldn't think there would be any difference in temperature in any fermentation technique unless yeast activity heat is considered, but I just figure the normal 5-10* core temperature rise of any ferment above ambient.

Lager I haven't tried, but after brewing as many as I have under this technique I am confident it would only benefit a lager more than my ales. Dry or liquid is the same as any other preference. Which ever yeast you would like to use, use it. I am actually thinking of starting to use dry yeast in the future, but am happy now with White Labs liquid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WBC
I made a relief valve and hold at 15 Psi after 3 days @ 65 F wort temperature. I use a Ranco controller to keep it at 62F (in the inside air) but after 4 days I tape it to the Keg. The reason for this is to minimize run time for the compressor and have more stable temperature for the beer. If you tape the sensor to the keg right away it cools the beer way to fast for the yeast. I use WLP001 yeast most of the time for ales and WLP830 for my lagers. In a hurry (Nottingham).
I differ in that I hold my beer at 5 psi during the initial ferment until I am a few points from estimated finish (3-5 days and "estimate" with my refractometer) and then completely un-tap and let the keg fire up to whatever it goes to pressure-wise. After a complete week of primary, I drop to 33* and let sit a week. I am going to stretch this to two weeks total for my next batch and then a week at 33* before transfer to serving keg. I just feel like the yeast can clean the beer up a bunch more and maybe help with my new late clarifying issue on my last two beers. The last two for some reason have not cleared as fast and I think I rushed them too quick into the kegerator. They taste wonderful, but didn't clear until almost floated.

I don't worry about the beer chilling to fast for the yeast as I like to have the beer colder than ferment and let it ramp up to wanted temperature. I have always placed the sensor right on the keg and it has worked wonderful for me. I usually pitch at 60*F and set my controller for 65*F. I also use WLP001 for most all ales, and the next day I am always on temperature and have a strong odor of CO2 in my lagerator. I do have to say though, from what I have researched you could get a much faster ferment at a higher temperature with no noticeable negative results. I am brewing mine for smooth tastes and almost mimic lager brewing in my ales with the obvious differences of cold maturation and shorter primary fermentation times.

My batch before last was a regular single infusion with a mash out decoction. It turned out wonderful and was a fav around my friends. I filled a pig up for payment of a new Sanke keg and drank the rest very fast. I finished at 1.012 right on the money and was very pleased with the outcome of the beer. I anxiously awaited tasting the triple decoction next batch. Same recipe just different hop times at the end and no dry hopping. Wow, this beer was instantly smoother and rounded off flavors in the beginning. It still has a little yeast in suspension after a week in the kegerator and I figure won't clear until the near end like the last one did. Last beer I had in 3 1/6 bbl Sankes, this one is in one 1/2 bbl. I have to say that if you have never done a decoction, try one on your favorite beer recipe that you have brewed numerous times before and tell me how much more the beer tastes. I am blown away, this isn't even the same beer. I am pumped about doing a lager now, but have to wait. I was asked to brew a wedding keg for a friend using the same recipe as the last two, but this time I am going back to single infusion. I have a mighty tasty beverage in the triple decocted APA, but it doesn't taste like APA anymore. This next one will have lots of time to mature before it is even chilled for serving, and I may do a secondary racking to another keg prior to taking to the reception as I don't want to risk the cloudy beer I usually get in my home kegerator for the first couple of pints (well used to until these last two beers anyways).

So, am I happy with my system? Overwhelmingly yes! Does it still need improvement? Hells yeah! I hope the new two week primary at fermentation temperature followed by the week at 33*F for crashing will help me out, and we will see if it does. Until then I can only think filtering for faster beer might be in my future. I have never had to before, but I have also never gone through beer this fast before. I have more people than ever wanting to try it and they all have more than a glass. My hopes are that one of these tasters wants to help me and sees the possibilities of going big. Oh well, the dream remains the same, lol. Hope everyone is enjoying reading about the technique as I have doing it.
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Old 05-21-2008, 02:07 AM   #124
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Wortmonger,
Thanks for the reply. Originally I thought I could brew a lager at room temps under pressure and have it taste like it was fermented at 50F, but after more consideration I doubt this would be the case. I will try it however after I purchase a quality valve.

I was originally going to attempt this technique with a keg pressure tester w/needle valve. Becuase of my lack of spunding valve Ill have to put pressureized fermentation off untill I can purchase a good one.

I do think I will use what I've got on hand to try "green racking" (4-8 pts from finish into a sealed keg) for natural carbonation. Any tips on this technique would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:43 PM   #125
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Only thing I would do if you are doing your "green racking" is to wait until you are 2-4 pts not 4-8 from finish. That is more than plenty to get you to whatever carbonation level you are wanting. If you did that then just let the keg alone until you are sure you are finished and then chill it. Only thing is you will have a lot more yeast sediment in your keg than I do. This isn't that bad though since after a few servings it too will all come out and be clear beer. Honestly, the only way I know you would have the clearest beer is to finish the full ferment and add priming sugar in your target keg before transferring your finished clear beer into it. Then do just as you would for the couple of pts off technique that you are trying anyways. Try a bunch of stuff, it's all cool and a great learning experience. I am now leaving my beers in the primary keg longer for extra sediment drop prior to transfer. We'll see if this helps my clarity in the kegerator. Good luck and let me know if I can help you out anymore, but I think you will get it done easily. ;D
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Old 08-05-2008, 05:56 PM   #126
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Default Another successful pressure ferment!

Well, I rolled out my last batch just this past weekend. It was intended as a wedding present for a friend, but due to absolutely no one with any sense of intelligence I was told at the last minute I couldn't serve that beer for free because they sold alcohol on the premises. I had asked about this and everyone said it was fine until the day of... So I have 14.5 gallons of refreshment and didn't even have to go to his wedding, lol. We ended up giving them a nice crystal vase so I figure that was good enough.

As for the beer I am sure you are reading this for, wow. I brewed 12.5 gallons of a higher gravity beer than I wanted initially with the intention of blending down to what I really wanted. I used the hop tea dry hop method talked about in the Hot French Randall thread and man am I happy. I didn't use enough, but I am happy. It was very simple to do and add to my pre-boiled blending water. I added this concoction to a keg and transferred the primary under counter-pressure to my blended keg. Wow, that went very easy and now I had 14.5 gallons of a nice light 3.8% ABV session beer. I let it mature at room temperature for a month and then transferred to another keg for absolute clarity of a traveling keg (I normally don't use a secondary but this keg was going places). The result, a clear keg of beer with lots of bubbles and a nice smooth taste. Not watery as some might suspect, just a weaker beer. I upped the carbonation to take in account the lighter mouth feel and it worked great to make a crispy beer. I now have what I need to move on to lager brewing and space saving fermentation. Blending wasn't hard to do and I get 2 more gallons of delicious beer for the same fermentation space as before. I'm finally where I want to be.

God, I love the HBT!
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:31 PM   #127
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Hmmm... thread bump, trying to catch up. I've heard of folks using Sanke kegs as fermenters before but didn't know about the tradeoffs. I've been thinking (far far from now) when I go to 10 gallon batches I'd do that for sure, since kegs are plentiful and cheap.

Now I think I've caught the bug... I have a recipe here for a 3 gallon batch of IPA I put together I was going to do in a Mr Beer since all my 6 gal fermenters are full. I might just have to toss it in a corny and throw on a spunding valve instead. I've been wanting to get one anyway for conditioning. Other than the valve I think I'd just need to build a beer-line hose with out-out QDs to do the counter-pressure transfer once I'm done with the dry hop. I have all the rest of the hardware.

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Old 08-05-2008, 08:39 PM   #128
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Awesome, sounds like a plan then, lol. I really just like the fact I have a pressurized vessel to ferment in that surpasses the Blichmann in psi rating. We used cornies to make starters in for 15bbl cylindroconicals at the brewery and they worked great for that. I figure with a spunding valve you can ferment in a corny easily. If done at high enough pressure you could do 4 gallons in a 5 gallon corny. Poindexter has a corny spunded ferment thread here.
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Old 08-07-2008, 01:12 AM   #129
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OK I ordered the hardware and am getting stuff together to make a 3 gal batch of Broken Halo IPA clone.
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Old 08-07-2008, 04:34 PM   #130
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You doing the spunding valve I recommended to Poindexter? I really should practice what I preach and drop the cash on this stuff as well. Mine is getting rusty and the damn relief valve ball sticks if you leave it on a minimal spew of beer from transferring. I wonder how the "recommended" relief valve works and how easy it is to clean. Maybe I will PM Poindexter and find out.


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