Closed-system pressurized fermentation technique! - Page 127

**Lennie** · 01-24-2012, 03:21 PM

MalFet, its not cheap but a Hop Rocket would fit the bill I think. Or they do make small moisture traps for compressed air systems.

I would think that if you could just pipe the spunding valve so it doens't drain back into the keg, you'd be OK. Mine is in-line to the angle on the ball-lock QD so it drains back, but with a little longer piece of copper tubing I could bend it downward.

SankePankey · 01-24-2012, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MalFet

Thanks Sanke, that makes sense.

I'm interested in setting up some kind of grant between my fermentor and my spunding valve...sort of like what you do with the 3gal cornie, but unfortunately I don't have space for that in my fermentation fridge.

Can anyone think of something that would work? Maybe two quarts, sealable and able to hold pressure, input and output...

I see some people going to town with a water filter housing. Those are definitely rated for pressure. My 3 gal sits right on the compressor hump of my 7.2 cu Magic Chefs chest freezers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by -MG-

How are you flushing that setup that you showed?

I just put it together, but I'll slap it on my seltzer keg after a brew to rinse it. I'm also gonna sacrifice a 5 gal corny (I got a bunch when they were still $20, back in the day

...) and fill it with 5 gal distilled water for a long term keep star san solution (with a little gas). Then I can hit the spunding valve with that and disassemble it and hang to dry until the next brew. I bet that will be enough.

SankePankey · 01-24-2012, 03:55 PM

Big time brew lesson learned for me: 'Moisture traps - seek and destroy'.

**kpr121** · 01-24-2012, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MalFet

Thanks Sanke, that makes sense.

I'm interested in setting up some kind of grant between my fermentor and my spunding valve...sort of like what you do with the 3gal cornie, but unfortunately I don't have space for that in my fermentation fridge.

Can anyone think of something that would work? Maybe two quarts, sealable and able to hold pressure, input and output...

Water filter has worked awesome for me! Except the one time that I accidently hooked my SV up to the liquid post instead of gas, its never filled up with krausen and gunk. If you leave it below the top of your fermenter, all moisture should drip down into it.

**MalFet** · 01-24-2012, 04:25 PM

To all those who suggested water filter housings, thanks. I can't believe I didn't think of that, especially since I have one already. Hop rocket sounds like a good idea too for those with a SS fetish.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lennie

I would think that if you could just pipe the spunding valve so it doens't drain back into the keg, you'd be OK. Mine is in-line to the angle on the ball-lock QD so it drains back, but with a little longer piece of copper tubing I could bend it downward.

I imagine that would totally work if all you were trying to avoid is backwash. I'm trying to avoid blowoff getting into my spunding valve, though. I'm not sure if gunk in the McMaster-Carr valves matter, but I'm hoping to set up some electronic controls here in the near future. Those wouldn't respond as well to trub in the line.

-MG- · 01-24-2012, 05:35 PM

After getting in a few of the 1/4" parts for the valve, I realized the gas in on my coupler:

http://rapidswholesale.com/beer/couplers/draught-technologies-single-valve-coupler-red-handle.html

Is not even close to right size for 1/4". It is bigger than 1/2" by just a little bit as it wouldn't fit in my T I have now. Anyone know what plumbing I can get to work. Is it something like 5/8" to 1/4"? It would have to be 5/8" female to 1/4" male.

**homebeerbrewer** · 01-25-2012, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SankePankey

Yes you'll need an 1/8" to 1/4" hex adapter. That's the one bummer about this PRV.

Here's my solution. It has a 1/4" tee with the 1/4" gauge, a flare to pipe adapter (both 1/4"), and a 1/8" to 1/4" hex adapter. There's an 1/8" to 1/4" barb on the other side of the PRV.

All bought (the fittings, minus the barb one I had) from beverageequipmentco.com for about $20 shipped.

This should fix my contamination problem. Now I can put a hose barb on the on the 1/4" flare fitting and then can take the hose off and flush it (and the valve) after fermentation and they will both dry out well.

Sanke, what's the part numbers from the site you mentioned? I looked, and I didn't see the tee. I just ordered the valve and gauge, now I need to get a sanke tap and the fittings.

Also, anyone got pictures of your setups? I've seen a few throughout the thread, but I'd like to see more pics.

**WortMonger** · 01-25-2012, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -MG-

Hi WortMonger!

First, thanks for your great post on pressurized fermentation. I have some questions that I know you can help me with:

After getting in a few of the 1/4" parts for the valve, I realized the gas in on my coupler:

http://rapidswholesale.com/beer/couplers/draught-technologies-single-valve-coupler-red-handle.html

Is not even close to right size for 1/4". It is bigger than 1/2" by just a little bit as it wouldn't fit in my T I have now. Anyone know what plumbing I can get to work. Is it something like 5/8" to 1/4"? It would have to be 5/8" female to 1/4" male.

Can you provide me a link?

The nuts that fit on a tap connector for a Sanke have what is called Beer Thread. I believe it has a British Pipe thread equivalent, but almost everyone that sells the connectors sells the nuts (both regular hex nuts and wing nut styles). I had to use a tailpiece that fit through the beer nut on the gas side to connect to my spunding valve assembly. The tailpiece is 1/4" NPT so it fits nicely into my "T". I honestly would just use the barbed nipple that normally goes with the connector for normal operation and then buy a threaded barbed nipple for the spunding assembly. This way you can add a yeast/crud collector with tubing and keep your spunding valve clean.

Quote:

I am also confused by the tap you have linked in your first post. You have a wing nut on the top that I don't understand, and the valve on the beer out line.

I was under the impression after removing the plastic and the little ball inside the coupler (this must be that system you talk about that would prevent things from going onl one way). That I connect the spunding valve to the gas in port, and can leave a picnic tap on the beer out. Do I have this right?

Thanks!

Martin

Ok, unsure exactly what pictures you are talking about but... either tap works the same so let me cover that. The top port on the tap is always the beer-out. The port on the side is always the gas-in. I have pictures of two different style tap connectors, one has a twist top.

The other is a lever tap.

The only wing nuts I use on my connectors are beer thread and that is so I don't have to use a tool to get them on or off. The spunding valve in all my pictures is on the gas-in port with the duck-bill check valve removed. The beer-out port usually has a penny or stopper, or it has a testing spigot. This port has the plastic holder and ball in it to prevent beer from going back into the keg when serving, or in this case testing. Here's a Sanke tap taken apart with all the parts mentioned.

Hope that helps.

**homebeerbrewer** · 01-26-2012, 02:26 AM

Ok, I'm a little confused by the two pictures below. Pankey, how do you connect your setup to Monger's setup?

Quote:

Originally Posted by SankePankey

And Monger, you mentioned a testing spigot. Do you have one? And can you provide a picture?

Quote:

Originally Posted by WortMonger

And BTW, thanks for the pictures. It helps to have a visual reference.

**WortMonger** · 01-26-2012, 03:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by homebeerbrewer

And Monger, you mentioned a testing spigot. Do you have one? And can you provide a picture?

No picture but, see where that penny is in the wingnut? Imagine that replaced with a barbed nipple held in with the beer nut>beer line>picnic tap. Just like you were serving beer, only no CO2 bottle attached to the tap.