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View Poll Results: What do you guys think about pressure fermentations? Time for a poll.
I've done it and I liked it just fine! 80 11.28%
I've done it, nothing wrong with it, but prefer normal fermentation techniques. 20 2.82%
I've done it, hate it, and never will do it again! 4 0.56%
I've never done it, but it is on my list! 528 74.47%
I've never done anything. I only brew beer in my mind. 77 10.86%
Voters: 709. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 11-30-2011, 02:15 AM   #1121
cmuench
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I did a batch and forgot to engage the lever. I thought I had abused my yeast when I had no pressure after 2 days. When I figured out what was wrong and engaged the lever, the gauge was pegged. The faceful of yeast I received is a reminder for me to always check the lever before I put the keg to bed.

As far as dry hopping goes...I've had good luck with my 15 gal batch, pressure transfer through a filter into 3 cornies with a paint bag full of dry hops in the bottom of the keg. I just serve out of these until the beer is gone. No bad flavors or anything like that no matter how long the beer sits on the hops.

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Old 11-30-2011, 10:32 PM   #1122
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Yeah I guess I'm lucky that the valve was pointed away from me although it was hard not to get wet regardless. If I know I will be drinking the beer relatively fast I think straight into the serving keg is fine but if it's going to last a while I would be worried about over hopping (if that's at all possible). No data to back me up on this assumption of course... More worried about making it extra green/grassy than deliciously hoppy.

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Old 12-01-2011, 12:04 AM   #1123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cino101 View Post
. More worried about making it extra green/grassy than deliciously hoppy.
remember, IPA's went on a 5-7 month ocean voyage while dry hopped.. longer isn't going to hurt it..
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Old 12-01-2011, 10:43 AM   #1124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysticmead View Post
remember, IPA's went on a 5-7 month ocean voyage while dry hopped.. longer isn't going to hurt it..
Hasn't anyone heard of breweries now a days limiting dry hop time to 5-7 days to avoid vegetal flavors?

I've heard of that a couple times on BN interviews.
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:27 AM   #1125
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I try to put all my IPA's on a boat for 5-7 months while on dry hops. Modern techniques be damned.

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Old 12-04-2011, 07:12 AM   #1126
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so I'm hearing 2 weeks and an IPA 7% is ready with this technique..

So does this taste better than a bucket fementor or is just faster?

also..Do hops also taste better using this technique as in... does it taste like I just added 1 more oz of hops or does it also give a better flavor profile of the hops.

have you guys compared same recipe using the 2 different techniques?

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Old 12-05-2011, 12:12 AM   #1127
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Hey guys, thanks for this great thread. I've got a couple questions, and I'll admit to reading a lot of it, but not all 1127 previous posts So I apologize if these have already been answered.

Background: I've got a Brewhemoth, and am making 15-20 gallon batches. I keg in Cornelius kegs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiki
Another approach, that I do not consider Closed-System Pressurized Fermentation only as far as this article is concerned, is to ferment open (meaning normally, like with a blow-off tube or an air-lock) and then "spund" at the last part of primary fermentation. This is done with the last 20% or so points of potential gravity so that you can still achieve natural carbonation.
This is what I'd like to do with the Brewhemoth - it will hold pressure, so I want to cap it towards the end of fermentation. My concern with a fully closed ferment would be with blow-off exiting through the spunding valve. Even with my not-so-vigorous ferments, there always seems to be some gunk that is left in the blowoff tube. Do you find any issues in your ferments just using a spunding valve and no blowoff?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiki
Since you have carbonated beer at this point, you will have to use counter-pressure transfer to get from your primary fermentor to your serving keg...I always see the beer clear the line and hear bubbles in the keg, at which time I un-tap the serving/target keg and then the fermentor keg to stop the process.
I also want to do this, but now I'm wondering how you know when the keg is full. Since I have 15+ gallons in the conical and only 5 gallon kegs, I can't use the method above. I'd really rather not let the beer come up into the OUT diptube, since that's already too late. I can't open the thing to look in, because there goes my counter pressure. Anyone have a good solution for this?

Thanks!

-Joe
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:57 AM   #1128
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Quote:

I also want to do this, but now I'm wondering how you know when the keg is full. Since I have 15+ gallons in the conical and only 5 gallon kegs, I can't use the method above. I'd really rather not let the beer come up into the OUT diptube, since that's already too late. I can't open the thing to look in, because there goes my counter pressure. Anyone have a good solution for this?

Thanks!

-Joe


Hey Joe,

Two options I can think of are:

1. Jumper one keg to another from 'IN' on the first to the 'OUT' (dip tube) on the second, that way when the first is full one next will start.

2. (the one I use) Use a scale. I have weighed my empty kegs and have written their 'dry' weights on them. 8.33 lbs is 1 gallon of water -- beer is similar enough for me. I add the weight of the keg to 41.65 and sit the keg on a scale while I transfer. I usually stop the transfer 0.5-1 lb from hitting the 5 gallon weight. OR you could zero the scale with the keg on it and transfer till just before 41.65.

I've done this about 7 times and so far its worked well.



Cheers!
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:06 AM   #1129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nostalgia
Hey guys, thanks for this great thread. I've got a couple questions, and I'll admit to reading a lot of it, but not all 1127 previous posts So I apologize if these have already been answered.

Background: I've got a Brewhemoth, and am making 15-20 gallon batches. I keg in Cornelius kegs.

This is what I'd like to do with the Brewhemoth - it will hold pressure, so I want to cap it towards the end of fermentation. My concern with a fully closed ferment would be with blow-off exiting through the spunding valve. Even with my not-so-vigorous ferments, there always seems to be some gunk that is left in the blowoff tube. Do you find any issues in your ferments just using a spunding valve and no blowoff?

I also want to do this, but now I'm wondering how you know when the keg is full. Since I have 15+ gallons in the conical and only 5 gallon kegs, I can't use the method above. I'd really rather not let the beer come up into the OUT diptube, since that's already too late. I can't open the thing to look in, because there goes my counter pressure. Anyone have a good solution for this?

Thanks!

-Joe
My volume is similar to yours but I ferment in a Sankey. I do 15 gal and use a blow off tube for the first 24-48 hours. Then put on the PRV and crank it up.

Hop particulate and other solids in the krausen will plug your PRV and make a keg bomb. I've done that many times settling on the technique I'm now using. If you whirpool your boil kettle for 15 min before chilling you can minimize how much hop particulate gets in the fermenter.

If you weigh a corny full of water it's somewhere between 45-50 pounds. I crash cool then counter pressure transfer my fully carbonated beer through a filter to 3 cornies. I put each corny on a scale while transferring and stop when I get close to the desired weight. Also, you'll see a sweat line on the side of the corny to indicate the beer level depending on ambient temp and humidity.

I would encourage you to try the technique. It's simple and works great!
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:47 AM   #1130
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Has anyone done this in a keg that isn't ever moved. I have a "huge" 7 foot tall crawl space under the house that I could put a couple of sankes down into to ferment in, but the access blows, and I wouldn't want to ever go down there (trapdoor in floor with no ladder). I could run lines to the kegs however...

Will silicone tubing and tube clamps hold the pressure between keg fittings and spunding valve located 5-7 feet above?

Could I effectively collect and wash yeast?

Could I clean well enough using a pbr then rinse then sanitize method without rocking the keg?

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