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01-27-2013, 08:29 AM
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#21
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bridgewater, Nova Scotia
Posts: 15
Likes Given: 2
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I grind my hop pellets in an old school coffee grinder....The hops stay somewhat suspended, but if you give the carboy a bump once a day for a couple days you can watch the hop particles fall beautifully. Cover racking cane with a filter of choice, great hop flavor and aroma is sure to follow. I must say, I like the idea of adding hops in the keg, I will be trying that to. Cheers
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01-27-2013, 12:47 PM
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#22
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 100
Liked 3 Times on 2 Posts Likes Given: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bierliebhaber
For your 0min addition, cool the wort to 180F before you add it. Then, let it steep for 20-30min.
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^This is a great technique for getting more hope aroma and flavor. I actually will skip all hop additions (except for bitter) and then pitch hops right after the boil, no cooling. The extra heat seems to add more flavor, if thats what you are looking for. If you listen to a lot of brewers talk, they say their IPAs have all of their flavor and aroma added in whirlpool, which is pretty much the same thing as the steep.
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01-27-2013, 01:04 PM
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#23
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: albany ny, NY
Posts: 404
Liked 13 Times on 12 Posts Likes Given: 14
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I was reading DFH extreme brewing book yesterday. The Russian River guy said they use between 0.5-1.5oz per gallon. So there is certainly room for a couple more oz there, if you like their beers.
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01-27-2013, 01:38 PM
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#24
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 724
Liked 27 Times on 24 Posts Likes Given: 5
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You might consider dry hopping in the primary. I've been battling a similar issue with my hoppy beers. I've been attacking it from all angles and it seems like oxidation is the most likely culprit. It muddles the hop flavor no matter how many ounces you add. My last batch I skipped dry hopping altogether and I seemed to get a much cleaner hop flavor. Next batch ill dry hop in primary. People will tell you that using a secondary wont cause that much oxidation, but my experience is different. Perhaps I'm just sensitive to oxidation... I can't stand old, stale hoppy beers... But it might be something to look into.
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01-28-2013, 02:41 AM
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#25
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 72
Liked 11 Times on 10 Posts Likes Given: 2
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Great thread, albeit confusing with so many different "facts".
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01-28-2013, 03:36 AM
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#26
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 12
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Portland water is very low in minerals. Usually for an IPA you want to spike the sulphates to 50-150 ppm. I'm from Seattle and have a very similar profile. Sulphates at 0-5 ppm. Granted you should still have something coming through when dryhopping. I would check the quality of the hops or your technique. Oxidation, mentioned a few threads back, could be a good culprit.
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01-28-2013, 03:37 AM
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#27
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 12
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Portland water is very low in minerals. Usually for an IPA you want to spike the sulphates to 50-150 ppm. I'm from Seattle and have a very similar profile. Sulphates at 0-5 ppm. Granted you should still have something coming through when dryhopping. I would check the quality of the hops or your brewing technique. Oxidation, mentioned a few threads back, could be a good culprit.
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01-28-2013, 06:03 AM
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#28
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: edwardsburg, MI
Posts: 771
Liked 14 Times on 13 Posts Likes Given: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leginx
Portland water is very low in minerals. Usually for an IPA you want to spike the sulphates to 50-150 ppm. I'm from Seattle and have a very similar profile. Sulphates at 0-5 ppm. Granted you should still have something coming through when dryhopping. I would check the quality of the hops or your brewing technique. Oxidation, mentioned a few threads back, could be a good culprit.
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The ratio of sulphate to chloride is what youre looking for. Anything up to 9:1 is acceptable with that being the absolute highest you would want to go. I like to do around 6:1 in my IPA's but thats just how I like them.
__________________
Fermenting:
B's Best Code Brown Ale
Nippy Nipples RIS
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01-29-2013, 05:44 PM
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#29
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 662
Liked 20 Times on 16 Posts Likes Given: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfrank85
The ratio of sulphate to chloride is what youre looking for. Anything up to 9:1 is acceptable with that being the absolute highest you would want to go. I like to do around 6:1 in my IPA's but thats just how I like them.
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I disagree. Sulphate adds a sharpness to your bitter, it has no affect on hop flavor or aroma. I brew with ZERO sulphate in my beers and have terrific aroma and flavor in my hoppy beers. Some people prefer the bite of sulphate but I find beers without it (especially highly bitter beers) to be more pleasant.
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Oh no! Bitter beer face!!!
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01-29-2013, 06:27 PM
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#30
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: edwardsburg, MI
Posts: 771
Liked 14 Times on 13 Posts Likes Given: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC_Ryan
I disagree. Sulphate adds a sharpness to your bitter, it has no affect on hop flavor or aroma. I brew with ZERO sulphate in my beers and have terrific aroma and flavor in my hoppy beers. Some people prefer the bite of sulphate but I find beers without it (especially highly bitter beers) to be more pleasant.
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I was merely commenting on the quote about sulphate numbers, not it's correlation to aroma or flavor.
__________________
Fermenting:
B's Best Code Brown Ale
Nippy Nipples RIS
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