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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 713
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I give away a lot of beer to friends, but I hate the looks on some of their faces when I explain how to pour and leave the yeast sediment behind. For me, sediment is fine, but friends new to homebrew think it means that my beer is inherently different (worse) than commercial beer.
So I came up with this idea, which I'm sure has been done before but I haven't read about it anywhere. For us bottle conditioners, why not bottle condition with slightly more priming sugar in a 2-Liter pop bottle and after 3 weeks in the large bottle, put it in the fridge until chill haze is gone, and when it is time to bottle freeze the standard beer bottles and rack into them. This method is an extra step, but it would be nice to have a six-pack of perfectly clear, sediment-free beers for gifts or competition, when the beer has to be as presentable as possible. Anyone tried this? As far as I can tell, the biggest issue would be foaming during the second transfer. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Easier and better solution...
Educate your friends and family. No one complains about sediment in my beer, but then most of the friends and family that drink some are interested in the process and have an appreciation for beer. Ofcourse it probably helps that I never make a blonde beer ![]() As for your method, it should work for short term storage of your beer. The problem is the beer in your bottles will be exposed to additional oxygen from the transfer and rebottling. Oxygen absorbing caps may help some. Also you will have to work out some kind of fill mechanism that allows for a softer fill of the bottles. Pouring the beer into the bottles will cause an excessive amount of foam. Craig
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Primary - Strong Bitter, Flanders Red, Sweet Mead, Dry Mead Secondary - Cyser, Pumpkin Pie Mead, 09-09-09 Barleywine, Black Raspberry Mead Conditioning - Blueberry cyser, Cran Cyser, traditional mead Drinking - Roggenbier, Oatmeal Stout, Mild, Chinook IPA, Fresh Hop IPA, Pinot Noir Pymet, Grape Braggot Up Next - IPA or maybe a Stout??? |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 757
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champagne makers let their wine bottle condition then store the bottles upside down rotating them periodically until all the yeast is in the neck of the bottle then freeze the yeast plug in the neck of the bottle and pop the cork this blows out the yeast with a little bit of wine, the bottles are topped up with unfermented grape juice and left to carbonate a little more leaving sparkling clear carbonated wine.
not sure if this helps but its interesting and possibly adaptable to beer. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Jugga jigga wugga
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Definitely adaptable to beer if you have the patience:
Methode Champenoise for Beer - Maltose Falcons Home Brewing Society (Los Angeles Homebrewing)
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Pri: SMaSH 2-row/Liberty/W-34/70, AHS Session Brown Porter Keg: AHS Pale Rye (4th), AHS Pale Rye (#5) Bot: AHS Pale Rye (3rd go), Busted Wing IPA (extract 3 gallon), EdWort's Bee Cave Hefe, AHS Delirium Tremens |
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#6 (permalink) | ||
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Post Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc
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Quote:
Here's a rant I wrote on this subject, don't take it personal I'm not ranting at you....It just contains some info you might be able to use in your edumacation of your friends and family about "living beers." Some homebrewers on here who make labels for the beers they give away usually have a note on it about living yeasts and pouring properly. IIRC, someone on here has a logo with a graphic on one of the side panels showing how to pour. If you are giving your beers away you might want to consider doing the same. I wish I could recall who did it for the label. Anyway here's the "rant." (like I said it was to someone else.) Quote:
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Michigan HBT'ers, come check in at; If you ask; Glass vs Plastic- Both work Water Bottles vs Betterbottles- I use both, both Work. Aluminum vs Stainless- I have one of each, doesn't matter, both work. Batch vs Fly Sparge- I batch, some fly, both work. Long Primary vs secondary- I long primary, some secondary, both work. Yeast vs Dry Yeast- Uh huh. In ALL THE VS QUESTIONS, about process or equipment, they All Make Beer! So choose and do. Last edited by Revvy : 12-04-2008 at 12:00 AM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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BEER HAS EVERYTHING???
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leave them in the fridge for a couple of months. all that crap will get stuck to the bottom so hard, there's no way it'll pour out unless they shake the **** out of it. it'll be more clear, too
![]() or you could start bottling from the keg after filtering. bring out your keg of beer, transfer through a wine filter (plate filter) to another keg, and counter-pressure fill into the bottle. brilliant clarity and no sediment!
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Fermenting/Conditioning: Hefeweizen, Peasant Ale, Blood Ale, RIS 08/08/08 (v2), Belgian Dark Strong Ale, Irish Red Ale, ESB Bottled (aging): RIS 08/08/08 (og), Belgian Dubbel Drinking: Dunkelweizen, Steam Engine Ale, Light American Wheat BJCP Brew-all Primary: American Wheat, American Rye, Northern German Altbier Secondary: Cream Ale, Blonde Ale, Kölsch Easy Partial Mash Brewing - Stovetop All-Grain Brewing "Death is always with us." - Brewpastor |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Imma chargin mah lazerz
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I leave my beers in the primary at least a month, and rack into the bottling bucket without disturbing it. When I prime there's such a thin layer of yeast at the bottom of the bottle that it's barely noticeable.
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There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sheffield, UK
Posts: 1,035
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I had an idea about this, based on the rubbish wheat beer dry yeast that Safale brought out (it was WB-06 -thanks Chris). I made a wheat beer with it, and there was almost no yeast character to the beer at all - no cloves, no spice, no banana, no nothing. The only positive was that the yeast was drinkable, and didn't taste foul like the yeasty dregs of other beers. So I had the idea of using that yeast at a low temp for a non-wheat beer (say, an American Pale Ale). I would hope that it wouldn't taste much different to using US-05, but as you could drink the yeast, there'd be no need to worry about inept pourers. I've not tried it yet, but if it worked it'd make hosting the beer-ignorant much easier.
FWIW I completely agree that educating people about bottle conditioned beers is a good thing, and have no qualms about doing that to my friends. But on the other hand, if a friend of a friend (or someone I didn't know but wanted to welcome to my house as a guest) came round, and the first conversation we had was me lecturing them on how to drink a beer, I would feel a bit of an uptight wanker. And much as I know that bottle-conditioned beer kicks ass, I'd still much rather not have to stand by the fridge checking that everyone was capable of operating a bottle of beer safely.
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Secondary: Belgian Strong Dark Ale Next up: Big Ass Chocolate Stout Last edited by Danek : 12-04-2008 at 10:36 PM. |
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#10 (permalink) | ||
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Post Hoc Ergo Propter Hoc
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Quote:
I present to you; Quote:
So, what's wankery about that? ![]()
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Michigan HBT'ers, come check in at; If you ask; Glass vs Plastic- Both work Water Bottles vs Betterbottles- I use both, both Work. Aluminum vs Stainless- I have one of each, doesn't matter, both work. Batch vs Fly Sparge- I batch, some fly, both work. Long Primary vs secondary- I long primary, some secondary, both work. Yeast vs Dry Yeast- Uh huh. In ALL THE VS QUESTIONS, about process or equipment, they All Make Beer! So choose and do. Last edited by Revvy : 12-04-2008 at 05:12 PM. |
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