Get your HBT Growlers, Shirts and Membership before the Rush!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > Belgian Trippel help
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-10-2014, 09:58 PM   #21
homebrewer26
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 19
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default

I'm not yet set up for yeast starters but I was going to pitch 3 packs of the 3787 and add the nutrient. I haven't done the exact math on how much yeast so if three sounds like too much or too little let me know.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Home Brew mobile app

__________________
homebrewer26 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-10-2014, 10:38 PM   #22
sweetcell
Swollen Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
sweetcell's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 4,256
Liked 721 Times on 531 Posts
Likes Given: 277

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by homebrewer26 View Post
I'm not yet set up for yeast starters but I was going to pitch 3 packs of the 3787 and add the nutrient. I haven't done the exact math on how much yeast so if three sounds like too much or too little let me know.
how big is your batch, and what is your projected OG (without the sugar that you'll be adding after fermentation is well underway)? plug these numbers, plus the freshness of the yeast, into mrmalty.com and it'll tell you how many packs you need.

ex: if you're fermenting 5.5 gallons of 1.068 wort (late sugar additions bring you up to 1.080), you'll need 3.4 packs of yeast that are a month old. i'd consider 3 packs close enough. so as long as the yeast isn't more than a month old, and your recipe falls within the above numbers, you should be good to go.
__________________
.
What hops should I grow? Hop grower's comparison table. Looking for cheap honey?

Drinking: galaxy/conan IPA, a farmhouse with ECY08 & brett blend
Aging: imperial chocolate stout, sour cherry mead, rye sour ECY20/ECY34 split, oud bruin & a few other sours, acerglyn, a BDSA
sweetcell is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-10-2014, 11:11 PM   #23
SaguaroMan
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
SaguaroMan's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 169
Liked 10 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default

Also, you don't necessarily need an lab flask to create a starter. You can clean and sanitize an old growler too. Really clean it tho.

I'd definitely go with a starter though on this one.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Home Brew mobile app

__________________
SaguaroMan is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-13-2014, 04:05 PM   #24
bknifefight
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 1,905
Liked 95 Times on 73 Posts
Likes Given: 42

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by homebrewer26 View Post
I'm not yet set up for yeast starters but I was going to pitch 3 packs of the 3787 and add the nutrient. I haven't done the exact math on how much yeast so if three sounds like too much or too little let me know.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Home Brew mobile app
3 packs of yeast?!
__________________
bknifefight is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-13-2014, 09:55 PM   #25
SaguaroMan
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
SaguaroMan's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 169
Liked 10 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default

^----- Ha, for real!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Home Brew mobile app

__________________
SaguaroMan is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-13-2014, 09:55 PM   #26
pvault98
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Altadena, CA
Posts: 176
Liked 9 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

I usually start my Triple out at 62 and hold it steady for about 48 hours or slightly more until the krausen starts up pretty active, then let it free rise slowly over several days until reaching 70. At this point the krausen and blow off will be big and I leave it there until the krausen just starts to subside and that is when I add in my sugar. I usually add just enough water and boil it to make a moderately thick syrup. Your fermentation should remain very active and I keep ramping the temperature up 1-2 degrees as I see the activity slowing. You can get the temps up to the mid 70's up to about 77 or 78 without any flavor issues as the growth phase as already done. I usually hold it around 75-77 for a week or so to try get it to attenuate out. Overall my fermentation for this beer will be about 2.5 weeks; I keep an eye on the activity and once I feel that is should be complete I take a hydrometer reading and do a forced diacetyl test. By 3 weeks I transfer it to a keg for cold conditioning. I wouldn't bother with a secondary, especially if you are bottle conditioning. The yeast are pretty tired out after a big beer like this and I find it best to bottle as soon as the fermentation is done, let them carb up at room temp and then cold condition for a month or longer to get the alcohol to soften up some.

The most important aspect of making this beer is pitching the right amount of yeast and supplying adequate oxygen and yeast nutrient. I usually do 1 min of O2 when pitching and then about 4 hours later I add another minute of O2 to really give the yeast what they need. You really want this beer to attenuate well and be dry, any perceived sweetness should come from the alcohol, not unfermented sugars.

__________________
pvault98 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-14-2014, 12:44 AM   #27
adrock430
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 167
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by pvault98 View Post
I usually start my Triple out at 62 and hold it steady for about 48 hours or slightly more until the krausen starts up pretty active, then let it free rise slowly over several days until reaching 70. At this point the krausen and blow off will be big and I leave it there until the krausen just starts to subside and that is when I add in my sugar. I usually add just enough water and boil it to make a moderately thick syrup. Your fermentation should remain very active and I keep ramping the temperature up 1-2 degrees as I see the activity slowing. You can get the temps up to the mid 70's up to about 77 or 78 without any flavor issues as the growth phase as already done. I usually hold it around 75-77 for a week or so to try get it to attenuate out. Overall my fermentation for this beer will be about 2.5 weeks; I keep an eye on the activity and once I feel that is should be complete I take a hydrometer reading and do a forced diacetyl test. By 3 weeks I transfer it to a keg for cold conditioning. I wouldn't bother with a secondary, especially if you are bottle conditioning. The yeast are pretty tired out after a big beer like this and I find it best to bottle as soon as the fermentation is done, let them carb up at room temp and then cold condition for a month or longer to get the alcohol to soften up some.

The most important aspect of making this beer is pitching the right amount of yeast and supplying adequate oxygen and yeast nutrient. I usually do 1 min of O2 when pitching and then about 4 hours later I add another minute of O2 to really give the yeast what they need. You really want this beer to attenuate well and be dry, any perceived sweetness should come from the alcohol, not unfermented sugars.
+1 to this, follow these directions and you'll get a great tripel
__________________
adrock430 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-14-2014, 02:13 AM   #28
homebrewer26
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 19
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default

Okay I've gotten a bunch of great advice. Few more questions. If I were to do a starter how much would you suggest I do and do you think I will be able to achieve the temperature control close enough without an actual temperature controller? And I read that brew belts aren't meant for carboys is this true and if so what would you recommend using for the heat control?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Home Brew mobile app

__________________
homebrewer26 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-14-2014, 01:43 PM   #29
bknifefight
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 1,905
Liked 95 Times on 73 Posts
Likes Given: 42

Default

Here is a great calculator I use for starters. It's especially nice because it'll tell you the weight of the DME needed to make the starter at gravity:
http://www.brewersfriend.com/yeast-p...er-calculator/

__________________
bknifefight is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-14-2014, 04:43 PM   #30
sweetcell
Swollen Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
sweetcell's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 4,256
Liked 721 Times on 531 Posts
Likes Given: 277

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by homebrewer26 View Post
Okay I've gotten a bunch of great advice. Few more questions. If I were to do a starter how much would you suggest I do and do you think I will be able to achieve the temperature control close enough without an actual temperature controller? And I read that brew belts aren't meant for carboys is this true and if so what would you recommend using for the heat control?
size of starter will depend on age of the yeast, size of your batch (in gallons) and its gravity (OG).

starter calculators: http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html, or www.yeastcalc.com

temp control: look up "swamp cooler". you can make a "swamp heater" buy using an aquarium heater instead of ice. i sometimes use a cheap timer on my heat belt and have it turn on and off every 30 mins. that helps with an even heat ramping.

i've been using a brew belt on my carboys with no probs. be sure to keep the belt low, below the level of the liquid. do not put it up high above the beer. you don't want air on the other side of the belt, you want beer that can absorb and distribute the heat.
__________________
.
What hops should I grow? Hop grower's comparison table. Looking for cheap honey?

Drinking: galaxy/conan IPA, a farmhouse with ECY08 & brett blend
Aging: imperial chocolate stout, sour cherry mead, rye sour ECY20/ECY34 split, oud bruin & a few other sours, acerglyn, a BDSA
sweetcell is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Belgian Trippel smccarter General Beer Discussion 21 07-13-2014 08:26 PM
Belgian Trippel 9.1% ABV smccarter General Techniques 9 08-17-2013 11:50 PM
Belgian Trippel! Slipgate General Beer Discussion 1 07-21-2011 05:37 PM
Belgian Trippel? bc23 General Techniques 7 01-24-2008 11:48 AM
Belgian Trippel FG? Diablotastic Beginners Beer Brewing Forum 5 11-23-2007 04:53 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS