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Old 08-17-2010, 07:23 PM   #21
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It can be debated whether a volume difference isomerizes acids more or less, but adding top off water would change the bitterness in a different sense. Just think of concentration and dilution.

If you add a half gallon to 40IBU 5 gallon wort, you will have <40 IBU in 5.5 gallons since the concentration of acid is now lower. Granted, the OG will also be lowered so it wouldn't necessarily make it seem less bitter.

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Old 08-17-2010, 07:26 PM   #22
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petep, strictly out of curiosity, why does a double batch take you 40-45 more minutes? i can usually get my two batch sparges done within 10 minutes of each other.
I'm assuming he's talking about the time it's taking him to heat his water also. I used to use a 6.5 gallon pot to heat my strike/sparge water in, and with some beers (if I wanted to do a double batch) I wouldn't be able to fit the entire amount of water in the pot. I'd have to heat the first portion, sparge, then heat the next portion while the first one is draining..
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Old 08-17-2010, 07:27 PM   #23
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I'm somewhat new to this but here is what I'm doing and it works well. I'm using a 60 qt rectangular Igloo. I tried a bazooka Braid first and all it did was clog, PITA, so i found instructions in the book for building a copper manifold, so I did with some 1/2 scrap copper I had in the garage. works perfectly. no more clogging. so I mash for 60 minutes, recirculate the 1st gallon or so, then take the 1st runnings. Add sparge water and let it set for 10 minutes.Drain. I am getting almost all my water/wort back, and have hit my target for Ales at 1.45-1.50 each time. I did screw up a little on my last mash sunday, as i missed my temp, came out at 144-143 dg, and hit 1.039 sg. we will see how that beer turns out. tasted the wort and it wasent as sweet as my others.

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Old 08-17-2010, 09:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by android View Post
petep, strictly out of curiosity, why does a double batch take you 40-45 more minutes? i can usually get my two batch sparges done within 10 minutes of each other.
Brings up an interesting question I had when doing my first batch sparge this weekend. How long is the desired wait between sparges? I think Denny advocates about 10 min. Which is what I was keeping to. But does that 10 min include recirc time? I would put the next round of water in, wait 10 min, then start to recirculate. I found that after the initial running, I had to recirculate very little until I got a clear running. A quart or less.

Then I would just drain and fill again.
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Old 08-18-2010, 11:46 AM   #25
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10min is my standard, but whether it's common (or makes logical/mathmatical sense) or not, i've found a slight increase in efficiency (~5%) when i've forgotten about the wait and it's been extended to 20-25min.

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Old 08-18-2010, 09:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suthrncomfrt1884 View Post
I'm assuming he's talking about the time it's taking him to heat his water also. I used to use a 6.5 gallon pot to heat my strike/sparge water in, and with some beers (if I wanted to do a double batch) I wouldn't be able to fit the entire amount of water in the pot. I'd have to heat the first portion, sparge, then heat the next portion while the first one is draining..
didn't think of that...

i normally wait 5 minutes or less, i just stir the heck out of it, let it settle and then let her rip. i always vorlauf a 2qt pitcher and it's generally clear by that time. i haven't noticed any difference in efficiency letting it sit a longer period.
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Old 08-19-2010, 05:42 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conroe View Post
With a braid you should batch sparge, with a false bottom you could fly sparge (but you should batch sparge.) At a homebrew level there is little to be gained fly sparging. To fly spage you need a very good launtering system (manifold/false bottom.) A braid/bazooka is not a very good launter device. You also need a good sparge diffuser to fly sparge. Channeling is a big problem that batch spaging totally eliminates.
I fly sparge, and the set up is rather elementary. I have a 5 gallon MLT, and a SS braid. I cut my sparge at 6 gallons, which gives me consistently over 80%. I could get over 90 at 7 gallons, but I'd rather not risk the extra tannin extraction. My Diffuser-- 2 pie tins with holes punches. The bottom one is flattened, the top one is a bowl shape. Works great.
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