Batch Sparge Method

**Cacaman** · 11-23-2011, 07:06 PM

Hey guys, I am ready to perform my first AG with my new Rubbermaid mash tun. I have searched, searched, and searched some more, and have yet to find an exact "how to" process on how to do a proper batch sparge. Now I know there is no "right" way to achieve batch sparging, but I have read several people are getting efficiencies over 75%. From my past research I have learned the following:

(Anything in red is what I am unsure of, but feel free to correct any part of the process.)

Step 1) Preheat cooler, and insert strike water (rule of thumb 1.25qt/lb of grain). Using a calculator such as greenbay rackers will help determine the temperature of the strike water. Let it sit for 60-90 mins depending on the recipe WITHOUT mixing during the mash to prevent heat loss.

Step 2) Recirculate about 2 quarts of water, or until wort runs clear, whatever comes last.

Step 3) Here is where I am most confused. John Palmer states, "Batch Sparging is a U.S. homebrewing practice where the full volume of sparge water is mixed into the mash[...] You can use more than one batch of water if you need to". This sounds like a "mash out" to me. My understanding was to FIRST drain out the mash, then add the first sparge (using close to boiling water to try to get as close to 170F as possible), mix the heck out of it for 10 mins or so, recirc, drain, and repeat if you want.

Normally I wouldn't care about such technicalities, but BeerSmith gives me several mash profiles, and I have no idea which one to pick, which in term, reflects if I'm going to accurately determine my efficiency.

**BierMuncher** · 11-23-2011, 07:17 PM

Without getting into the fly VS batch sparge technique, you might consider that you are one bucket with some tiny holes drilled in the bottom, from doing a fly sparge and not worrying about measuring, mixing, stirring.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/hybrid-fly-sparge-technique-75454/

Never be afraid to get in and give your mash one good stir for fear of temp loss. Dry clumps of improperly mixed mash will hurt your beer more than a one degree loss.

maffewl · 11-23-2011, 07:21 PM

1. I pour the strike water into my mash tun at about 10 degrees (maybe more depending on the outside temperature) above what the temp needs to be when I dough-in. I then tilt the cooler a couple of times to allow the insulation to absorb some of the heat from the water.

2. When the water gets to the correct temp., I dough in (stir like crazy) and hold at my mash temp for 60-90 min.

3. I like to do a mash-out, it's not a requirement, but I prefer one. So while the mash is going, I heat my mash-out water which I will add to the mash when the 60-90 min. time is up and let it rest for 10 min. that will raise the mash temp. to around 168 degrees. (While this is resting, I begin heating the first 1/2 of my batch sparge amount of water to 168 degrees.)

4. After about 10 minutes or so, I vorlauf, then pour the wort back into the mash tun, and drain the runnings.

5. Once drained, my first round of batch sparge water is usually ready, and I add it to the mash tun. Stir like crazy and leave for 10 min. (While this is resting, I begin heating my second 1/2 of batch sparge water to 168 degrees.)

6. Repeat step 4.

7. I then add my second half of batch sparge water, and let rest for 10 min.

8. Repeat step 4.

Done.

Ready for boil.

**Cacaman** · 11-23-2011, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BierMuncher

Without getting into the fly VS batch sparge technique, you might consider that you are one bucket with some tiny holes drilled in the bottom, from doing a fly sparge and not worrying about measuring, mixing, stirring.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/hybrid-fly-sparge-technique-75454/

Never be afraid to get in and give your mash one good stir for fear of temp loss. Dry clumps of improperly mixed mash will hurt your beer more than a one degree loss.

I read your thread last week, BierMuncher, and was pretty sold on the idea. I actually thought fly sparging would be easier to do, the only difference would be a little bit more attention on my end (which isn't a big deal since I never really leave anything alone during brew day). I believe I read some posts by Bobby saying he was batch sparging at about 85%. Now, while I am not the brewer Bobby is, nor have his equipment, I was pretty intrigued that batch sparging was capable of reaching such high efficiencies.

In any case, I'll look a little more into your hybrid process, and if I can get an exact picture in my head of how to do it, with out a doubt will try it. (I'm a visual learner

)

**Cacaman** · 11-23-2011, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maffewl

1. I pour the strike water into my mash tun at about 10 degrees (maybe more depending on the outside temperature) above what the temp needs to be when I dough-in. I then tilt the cooler a couple of times to allow the insulation to absorb some of the heat from the water.

2. When the water gets to the correct temp., I dough in (stir like crazy) and hold at my mash temp for 60-90 min.

3. I like to do a mash-out, it's not a requirement, but I prefer one. So while the mash is going, I heat my mash-out water which I will add to the mash when the 60-90 min. time is up and let it rest for 10 min. that will raise the mash temp. to around 168 degrees. (While this is resting, I begin heating the first 1/2 of my batch sparge amount of water to 168 degrees.)

4. After about 10 minutes or so, I vorlauf, then pour the wort back into the mash tun, and drain the runnings.

5. Once drained, my first round of batch sparge water is usually ready, and I add it to the mash tun. Stir like crazy and leave for 10 min. (While this is resting, I begin heating my second 1/2 of batch sparge water to 168 degrees.)

6. Repeat step 4.

7. I then add my second half of batch sparge water, and let rest for 10 min.

8. Repeat step 4.

Done.

Ready for boil.

Thanks for this as well, that's exactly what I had pictured in my head. What's throwing me off are the water volumes on brewsmith, and how it calculates efficiency. I was used to promash. My question to you is how much amount of water do you usually use for your mash out, first and second sparge. Are they equally divided by 3 to reach your pre boil volume?

**BierMuncher** · 11-23-2011, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cacaman

(I'm a visual learner

)

Try this:

Fly Sparge Bucket - YouTube

maffewl · 11-23-2011, 07:44 PM

It's a case by case basis... but I use the 1.25 quart per lb. for the mash... mash-out is usually around 1-1.5 gallons... and the batch sparge is the amount of water left that will reach my pre-boil amount. I split this batch sparge amount in half for two separate sparges.

maffewl · 11-23-2011, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maffewl

It's a case by case basis... but I use the 1.25 quart per lb. for the mash... mash-out is usually around 1-1.5 gallons... and the batch sparge is the amount of water left that will reach my pre-boil amount. I split this batch sparge amount in half for two separate sparges.

EDIT: It looks like BierMuncher and myself are playing dueling replies

**Cacaman** · 11-23-2011, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BierMuncher

Try this:

Fly Sparge Bucket - YouTube

Oooooo nice! AND home made! The only thing I would have to figure out there is finding a way to match the output speed with the input speed, and how many/how large holes to drill. Other than that, I'd love to use that!

**Cacaman** · 11-23-2011, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maffewl

EDIT: It looks like BierMuncher and myself are playing dueling replies

I like your method, its simple and can use basic rules of thumb to calculate. However, BM's method will allow me to sit back and drink a beer while watching the work be done before me