SpanishCastleAle

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I recently read somewhere that even when using a stone, most of the O2 doesn't get dissolved in the beer (sure, you could run it long enough if you can keep the foam down). The suggestion was to run the O2 enough to fill the headspace of the carboy (which ime will be full of foam by then) and then shake the crap out of the carboy.

I have the Williams kit and have run it with and without the filter and didn't notice a difference (other than it flowing better without it). I mostly just use it for starters and lagers, usually not for typical ales.

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Early brewers were primarily women, mostly because it was deemed a woman's job. Mesopotamian men, of some 3,800 years ago, were obviously complete assclowns and had yet to realize the pleasure of brewing beer.- Beer Advocate

Slurm

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Great... now I have something else that i really want to buy... That is an awesome piece of kit.

boo boo

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Good suggestion.

What I was told was to just let the O2 trickle into the fermenter so it can be absorbed, rather than being blown out into the headspace where it would be lost.

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malkore

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Yes, you just trickle the O2 in. I basically start my flow at the top fo the wort so I can see its actually bubbling, then I put it down ot the bottom and move it slowly around (I too have the williams 22" stainless wand airstone setup).

Doing this, I do not see the O2 make it to the surface. i don't actually get foam on top of the wort (in an appreciable amount). And from my experience with dissolving gas into liquid...the above tells me O2 is definitely going into the wort.

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Malkore
Primary: English Mild
On tap: Pale Ale, Lancelot's Wheat, English Brown Ale, Steam Beer, HoovNuts IPA
Bottled: MOAM, Braggot, Raspberry Melomel, Merlot, Apfelwein, Pyment, Sweet mead, Cabernet
Gal in 2009: 27, Gal in 2010: 34, Gal in 2011: 13, Gal in 2012: 10

Sarrsipius

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I've been using the disposable cylinders with the valve shown in this thread but have been very dissapointed with how many batches/cylinder I've been getting. Seems like I get about 5 or 6 minutes of O2 from a cylinder. I guess at 8 bucks a tank it's only a couple bucks extra per batch but it seems like I should get more from a tank that size. Anyone know what the pressure is on these when they are new? Are you guys getting better results?

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Keg 1: Milk Stout_______Keg 2: BDSA
Keg 3: Belcher's Nuggets_Keg 4: Air
Keg 5: Air _______Keg 6: Belcher's Nuggets

My HERMS rig

calebawilson

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can you buy the regulator or valve to dispense the o2 from the bottle at HD I have tubing and a airstone just need a way to get the o2 into it.

MikeSzwaya

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I just recently went back to the red O2 tank + SS stone method after years of using an aquarium pump/HEPA filter. This time though, I picked up a flowmeter to measure out the O2 rate.

The Yeast book noted that around 9-12 ppm O2 was optimal and was something you just couldn't get using atmospheric air (aquarium pump, shaking, etc).

I don't have the book in front of me now but I'm guessing it was White Labs that did an experiment where they measured O2 content in 5 gallons of wort after a set amount of oxygenation: 1 min, 2 min, etc. at 1 L/min. I think the 1 L/min for 1 minutes (basically 1 liter of O2) yielded 12 ppm O2.

The authors recommended a trial-and-error approach to dial the oxygenation rate in, assuming that people understandably didn't have a method to measure O2. Personally, I don't have the time or patience to experiment with getting oxygenation right.

For my 10 gallon batches, I've been adding 2 liters of O2, mainly at 0.5 L/min for 4 minutes because the 1L rate is pretty intense and causes a lot of foaming. Even at 0.5 L/min, the flowrate seems high. It foams and you can see the surface disturbance. I believe though that the O2 is trapped in the bubbles and that as the yeast goes through lag phase, it scours up the O2 in the headspace.

So far, the results have been really, really good. I'm getting far more consistent attenuation than I did with air.

Anyway, this went a little off track from the disposable O2 tank thread. Sorry.

To answer Sarrsipius, I've had this O2 bottle for a while. I think I've gotten at least a dozen batches out of it.

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Rundownhouse

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Mike,

That's awesome info, thanks. Any chance you could take a short video of your .5L/m flow into wort and post it? That could really help out all of us left just guessing how much O2 we're getting in our wort.

SankePankey

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Yeah, I want to get a flow meter. I have an in line stone that's right after the boil kettle, in stead of right after the plate chiller like alot of folks do, like sabco chill-wizard. (I chill in the kettle, so). The stone is inside a tri-clamp tee and on the outside is a ball lock corny post (this was a custom weld). Anyhoo, it's nice to have whatever tubing connected to the tank be removable from the stone rather than permanently attached. That way you can store the stone in Vodka or something if you want or clean it without discoloring your tubing or having to sanitize that.

Anyhoo, back to the point. In using the little red tanks, a flow meter would be great cause I'm just guessing at this point. And, I've found that as the tank becomes emptier, it flows way less than when new, so you just never know enough to know without a flow meter. I figure at some point, I'll graduate to a medical oxygen tank with a regulator that has a flow meter in it - rather than buying a separate flow meter from Dwyer or something because those are equally expensive and I have to go fill one tank (CO2) every so often anyways as it is.

caiafa

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I just bought a 2l refillable tank and pressure regulator. Have to go to fill it up next week.
I'm thinking of buying a oxygen meter to measure the dissolved gasses.