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Old 03-12-2013, 07:19 PM   #21
John1S
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I have a question about how critical the sparge temperature is. I start at 170F but all my sparge water is sitting on my stand waiting to go. I thought about this the other day when I was brewing on a cold day. By the time I got to the end of the sparge the temp had dropped significantly. I was close to 120. I guess I should go buy a small 2 gallon pail with a petcock and put up 1 gallon at a time at 170F. My efficiency is nothing to write home about (70%) and I am wondering if this is part of it.

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Old 03-12-2013, 07:25 PM   #22
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I do no sparge sometimes and use the second runnings for starter wort.

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Old 03-12-2013, 07:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John1S
I have a question about how critical the sparge temperature is. I start at 170F but all my sparge water is sitting on my stand waiting to go. I thought about this the other day when I was brewing on a cold day. By the time I got to the end of the sparge the temp had dropped significantly. I was close to 120. I guess I should go buy a small 2 gallon pail with a petcock and put up 1 gallon at a time at 170F. My efficiency is nothing to write home about (70%) and I am wondering if this is part of it.
A thread about not sparging is an odd place for a question about sparge temps, but the short answer is that it is not really critical at all.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:50 PM   #24
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I am not an AG guy yet but have been trying to decide what type of set up to build.

I have often wondered why not just have a big enough tun to hold all your liquid at once ( say 6.5- 7 gallons for a 5 gallon batch) and let it sit longer than the traditional 60-90 minutes or make a simple continuous stir to increase efficiency.

A simple motor or drill mounted to a stirring blade through the lid would probably do it.

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Old 03-12-2013, 09:03 PM   #25
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I am not an AG guy yet but have been trying to decide what type of set up to build.

I have often wondered why not just have a big enough tun to hold all your liquid at once ( say 6.5- 7 gallons for a 5 gallon batch) and let it sit longer than the traditional 60-90 minutes or make a simple continuous stir to increase efficiency.

A simple motor or drill mounted to a stirring blade through the lid would probably do it.
That's almost a description of BIAB but when you have that much liquid you really don't have to stir to get great efficiency. The difference with the system you are describing and BIAB is that with BIAB you have a huge filter area and pressure to get the liquid out so you can use a very fine crush/grind and still get your wort. With the fine crush, your efficiency goes up.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:18 AM   #26
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That begs the next question why not do BIAB?

Sounds like it is simpler

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Old 03-13-2013, 01:53 AM   #27
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Anyone Just give up sparging, and Mash No Sparge exclusively? I've done it a few times, and although efficiency can send this Virgo into fits, sure is less time consuming, and Some of the best beers Ive EVER brewed have been No Sparge. What are your thoughs on this.
Sparging is a process for making a beer. There is something bother in my mind as of now, how people calculate their sparge volumes when brewing stronger beer?
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:05 AM   #28
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I do BIAB and usually do no-sparge with 60 to 65% efficiency. This time I drained the wort into a pail and sparged once through the bag with two gallons of cold water. Efficiency rose to 75%. Can't complain about that.

Worxman02, you get 80% BIAB with no sparge? Nice. I gotta practice more.

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Old 03-13-2013, 02:16 AM   #29
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Sparging is a process for making a beer. There is something bother in my mind as of now, how people calculate their sparge volumes when brewing stronger beer?
While I do not make strong beers I can think of two ways to get a high gravity. Either just use the first runnings or boil down the batch to whatever gravity you want. I would think use the first runnings and then make a smaller beer out of the rest of the runnings.

I used to batch sparge but now just do a no sparge. I found I need to add a little grain to keep my efficiency up but the ease on brew day is worth it to me. Not to mention the chickens really love the grain if it is a little sweeter
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:49 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Epimetheus View Post
I do BIAB and usually do no-sparge with 60 to 65% efficiency. This time I drained the wort into a pail and sparged once through the bag with two gallons of cold water. Efficiency rose to 75%. Can't complain about that.

Worxman02, you get 80% BIAB with no sparge? Nice. I gotta practice more.
It isn't more practice you need, its a finer crush on your grain that is needed. My first few times of BIAB I got 80% efficiency but I used a Corona style mill and ground that grain until it looked like coarse corn meal with ripped up husks. It would have beer a problem setting a grain bed on a conventional mash tun but it works great on BIAB.
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