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Old 02-29-2012, 11:21 AM   #1
brbecker87
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Default Alternative Cooling Methods

So here's my situation. I recently moved into a new apartment, and much to my dismay, there is no exterior faucet to connect a hose to, nor is the kitchen sink amenable to connecting the hose. I have two copper chillers, so I thought that setting up a bucket with ice water for prechiller and using a pond pump to move the liquid through the system. My question is, how big of a pump should I be looking for? I know I will need something strong enough to push the water through 75' of copper coil + the plastic tubing. What should I look for as far as GPH? I would love to go with a march pump, but along with moving into the new apartment came a large rent obligation.

Thanks

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Old 02-29-2012, 11:27 AM   #2
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A pond pump should work, since your coolant should not come into contact with wort. I'd err on the larger side if I were you, though. Not so much to make sure it CAN push the water through, it also needs to push it through fast enough to be an effective chiller.

I'd go for the best pump you can afford. You might also check into aquarium pumps or a waterbed pump if you can find one with a little oomph.

Just my $.02.

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Old 02-29-2012, 11:43 AM   #3
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what about the bathroom sink's faucet?

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Old 02-29-2012, 12:55 PM   #4
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So I assume that your kitchen sink faucet will not accept a garden hose adapter? Is there a washing machine hookup in your apt.?

In my experience, pre-chillers are not as effective as recirculating ice water through the chiller - just fill a large tub with ice water and put an immersible pump in the tub - return the water from the chiller to the tub. Of course, I only do that after I have already knocked the wort temp. down to about 100º F first, so don't know how well that would work starting at boiling temp. But putting a pre-chiller in series just adds more resistance in the line, which cuts down your flow rate.

When looking at pumps, the "lift" or "head" rating may be more important than the "gallons per hour" rating. The lift rating determines how much pressure the pump can develop and you need some pressure to force the water through your chiller. For example, I use a 1/6 hp pump from Harbor Freight which is rated at 1350 gallons per hour and 21 foot lift. What I actually get through my 50 foor, 3/8 OD copper chiller is about 65 or 70 gallons per hour, not 1350, because of the restriction of the chiller coil.

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Old 03-01-2012, 01:09 AM   #5
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I checked the connections for the washer and water heater and it looks like a no go. Plus I don't want to mess with any of it (landlord is a police chief).

How well does the 1/6 HP work with the 50' coil? And how much did it cost? after thinking about it you might be right about prechiller being unnecessary if I can directly add cold water going through the sytem. I could run a bucket of cold tap water through it first, then when its cooler, run a bucket of ice water through it.

Any guess as to how many gallons to get it to 100°?

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Old 03-01-2012, 05:02 PM   #6
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Here's the pump I use - bought it for $50 at my local Harbor Freight store.

http://www.harborfreight.com/16-hors...ump-68422.html

Hard to say how many gallons of water you need to get down to approx 100º - I know I have a lot more flow using tap water than with my pump, but it doesn't take long to get from boiling to 100º - maybe 10 or 12 minutes? I'd guesstimate I'm running maybe 3-4 gpm, so it could still be quite a bit of water. Once I shift to pumping ice water, I'm just recirculating about 10 gallons. I found my March pump to be ineffective for recirculating through my chiller - just got a trickle because the March pump couldn't develop enough pressure (not criticizing March pumps, this is just the wrong application for them). As I said, I only get a little over one gallon per minute with the HF pump, but it works pretty well.

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Old 03-02-2012, 11:30 AM   #7
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Are you sure you couldn't use a non-permanent solution like this quick disconnect?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQ...mp_bxgy_p_dp_y

If you're not sure, you can always ask your landlord. The worst he'll do is tell you no.

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Old 03-02-2012, 11:49 AM   #8
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There has to be an aerator on your kitchen or bathroom faucet. A faucet adapter will just screw on if you remove the areator that is in place currently.
The faucet adapters have both male and female threads on them and will work on most faucets. They run about $3 at your LHBS.
Bull

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Old 03-02-2012, 12:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullinachinashop
There has to be an aerator on your kitchen or bathroom faucet. A faucet adapter will just screw on if you remove the areator that is in place currently.
The faucet adapters have both male and female threads on them and will work on most faucets. They run about $3 at your LHBS.
Bull
not necessarily true. newer kitchen faucets with pullout combination spray heads won't work. bathroom faucet are more likely to work but can also have integrated heads
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:17 PM   #10
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http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_792_792

This might be what you're looking for! Been using it for a year now, and it's been a champ.
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