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Old 12-21-2011, 12:47 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by bottlebomber View Post
My instincts tell me that a pregnant woman should be able to enjoy a very moderate amount of alcohol. Of course this is horribly taboo, but the children who suffer from FAS had mothers that consumed considerable amounts of booze. I really don't see a liter of Mild throughout a weeks time amounting to any kind of risk, and I'll bet I could get the blessing of several physicians on that arrangement. The kind of beer we drink is chock full of nutrition, and I considerably different than having a couple mixed drinks every day. I would feel way weirder about my wife having a diet soda every day than a 6 ounce glass of low gravity beer.
This.
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:59 PM   #22
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prolly like malta
Never tried it, but from the description, sounds heavy and cloyingly sweet. I would want more carbonation, and some bitterness, basically, a craft non-alcoholic beer.
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Old 12-21-2011, 01:29 PM   #23
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OK OK... sorry but I will not be able to answer all of your questions!! First of all, I think bighorn_brew is right, I will brew a good one for the birth of the baby instead!! Secondly, I know that pregnant women can drink one beer or one cup of wine per day without problems. But with the coming holidays I thought it could be a good idea to brew a beer without alcohol so she could drink 2 beers without stress.

Now, I will considerate all of your suggestions and tried to develop another method... for the next baby, because I agree with the fact that brewing beer is for alcohol!! and taste...

So, thanks to all of you for your help! And I wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!!

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Old 12-21-2011, 01:40 PM   #24
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OK OK... sorry but I will not be able to answer all of your questions!
We don't care, its only your thread for the first three posts.

Happy Holidays to you too and thanks for bringing up an interesting topic. I rarely think about producing low ABV beers.
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Old 12-21-2011, 02:30 PM   #25
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Look into reverse osmosis: http://www.desline.com/articoli/7861.pdf

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Carbonic bite? Is that like the bubonic plague?
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Needless to say after more than a few drams my mental efficiency matched my mashing efficiency.
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:58 PM   #26
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I have had success removing alcohol from homebrew after two failed attempts.
It is possible I am pleased to say. You need to go well above 176 degrees, my
success came from boiling and the flavor was still good. My failures came exactly
the same way as the OP by heating to 170-odd degrees. This should still be possible
if you do it for many hours. I boiled for about an hour and a half and let the resulting
and obviously lower final volume of the liquid be my guide. I used also a campden
tablet since I did not have a chiller, to keep out unwanted bugs. After you boil,
prime and cool, make sure you re-aerate somehow before you repitch new yeast
or the beer may not carb well.

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Old 12-22-2011, 04:45 PM   #27
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Denature enzymes, yes. Tannin extraction is much more dependent on pH than temp, though. If it wasn't, you couldn't do decoctions. In a decoction mash, you boil the grain, yet you don't get excessive tannins from it.
in a decoction, the grist (which is where the tannins are) is not subjected to temperatures over 172, but left in the mash tun. only wort is drawn off and boiled. you are correct though, that too-high of a pH will also cause tannin extraction.

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This. I mean, it sounds simple, but if you're not boiling, you're not boiling. You're just doing hot evaporation. And while that is faster than a cool evaporation, I don't think you can expect to drive of a significant amount of ethanol in a reltively short period of time without boiling it.
if the boiling point of ethanol is 173, than you are boiling ethanol at 173. just because the majority of the liquid doesnt boil at 173 does not mean that you are not boiling off ethanol at that temperature.

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After you boil,
prime and cool, make sure you re-aerate somehow before you repitch new yeast or the beer may not carb well.
you should never do this. do not airerate already-fermented beer uness you are trying to induce off flavors. this is exactly how to produce diacetal.

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You need to go well above 176 degrees
the only problem with that is heat destroys the desireable flavors in the already-fermented beer, and induces undesireable off-flavors and will completely undo your hopping schedule. hop aromas are the first to be destroyed. and if you cant reach the boiling point without negatively effecting the beer, then you would need to reduce the boiling point. you do that by changing the pressure on the liquid.
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:00 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by audger View Post
in a decoction, the grist (which is where the tannins are) is not subjected to temperatures over 172, but left in the mash tun. only wort is drawn off and boiled. you are correct though, that too-high of a pH will also cause tannin extraction.
I'm sorry, but in a traditional decoction mash you pull part of the grist and boil it. The liquid, which contains the enzymes, remains in the mash tun. The method you describe is used in a triple decoction mash as the third decoction. At that point, conversion is complete so you can boil the liquid and denature the enzymes.
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:00 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audger View Post
in a decoction, the grist (which is where the tannins are) is not subjected to temperatures over 172, but left in the mash tun. only wort is drawn off and boiled. you are correct though, that too-high of a pH will also cause tannin extraction.
Actually, this is not true. You do, indeed, pull off grain in a true decoction.

Edit: Sorry, Denny already pointed that out.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:54 PM   #30
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Althought it's minimal, but the act of naturally carbing your bottles with yeast and sugar will produce alcohol as the bottles carb up.

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