Spike Brewing 12.5 Conical Fermenter Giveaway - Enter Now!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > General Techniques > 1800w Burton Induction Hot Plate

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 12-03-2012, 10:22 PM   #21
Schlomo
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Fenton, Michigan
Posts: 154
Liked 11 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Well its "Boiling" now, not very strong boil though.. i would be sure to insulate your kettle.

__________________
Schlomo is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-03-2012, 10:25 PM   #22
wobdee
Junior Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Lake Wissota, Wisconsin
Posts: 503
Liked 37 Times on 28 Posts

Default

Thanks, how long did that take?

__________________
wobdee is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-03-2012, 10:29 PM   #23
Schlomo
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Fenton, Michigan
Posts: 154
Liked 11 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

hour and 20 or so, but that was starting at about 120-140deg

__________________
Schlomo is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-03-2012, 10:58 PM   #24
wobdee
Junior Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Lake Wissota, Wisconsin
Posts: 503
Liked 37 Times on 28 Posts

Default

Wow! That's a pretty long time. I have a few batches of extract to go through before I convert to BIAB so I'll only be boiling 3 gl for those, hopefully it will come up quicker.

Insulating the kettle sounds like a must if you want to boil higher volumes. I'm also going to run it's own seperate circuit so it can be run on full power. Thanks for the help.

__________________
wobdee is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-03-2012, 11:03 PM   #25
Schlomo
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Fenton, Michigan
Posts: 154
Liked 11 Times on 10 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

I did 3g boils in mine and it took between 30-45 mins to hit boil. I'm using 3500 in a keggle now with 2 heating elements and my boil time is about 30 minutes for 7.5 gallons. I'd look into a heat stick if you want to do biab with the burton. Maintain mash temps with the burton, get to boil with the heatstick, remove once hits boil and the burton should be able to do the rest.

__________________
Schlomo is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-08-2012, 03:59 PM   #26
wobdee
Junior Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Lake Wissota, Wisconsin
Posts: 503
Liked 37 Times on 28 Posts

Default

I received my 1800w induction burner and after a few tests this is what I got. I'm using an 8gl mega pot from Morebeer which may be a little to wide for this burner, I'd recommend a smaller diameter pot since the heating element seems to be around 6" diameter.

First test was 6gl of 110 degree tap water and it took 1 hour 15 minutes to a boil. As soon as you take off the lid it settles down to a strong simmer. It does hold a good boil with the lid on.

Second test was 4 gl and it took 50 minutes to boil and it also needed the lid to keep a good rolling boil.

Third test was 3 gl extract brew. I disolved the DME in 3gl hot tap water, turned on the burner and it took about 45 min to reach boil. I kept the top about 3/4 covered with the lid to keep a good rolling boil for 30 min. It boiled down to just over 2.5gl in 30 min.

I think this will work fine for what I want to do. In the near future I'm switching to 2.5gl all grain and figure doing the BIAB method and I'll be using around 4gl of water. Reaching a 160 mash in temp with 4gl took about 25 min and I'm figuring about another 25 min to bring her up to boil. The burner also has a 1-10 heat control so it should be easy to hold mash temp.

These times could probably be cut down some with some kind of insulation wrap but I'm holding off on that for now. If someone was planning to brew 5 gal batches this burner would work good for partial boils but full boils may take awhile.

__________________
wobdee is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-10-2012, 06:04 PM   #27
BBBF
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,058
Liked 49 Times on 39 Posts
Likes Given: 10

Default

How wide would a pot have to be to have it straddle two burners?

__________________
BBBF is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-11-2012, 12:46 PM   #28
wobdee
Junior Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Lake Wissota, Wisconsin
Posts: 503
Liked 37 Times on 28 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BBBF View Post
How wide would a pot have to be to have it straddle two burners?
My burner is 12.5" wide so if you put two together the width between the outer edge of the two elements would be about 21". It would take a pretty wide pot to fit but I guess it could be done.
__________________
wobdee is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-07-2013, 02:23 AM   #29
BoABrewer
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2
Default

So I am one of "those guys" who is looking at posts trying to figure out what works for home brewing and what doesn't based on others' feedback. So, I finally wanted to contribute... And in case you were wondering, I wanted to step up (and am in the process of stepping up) my batches from 10 gallon to 20 - 1BBL.

And more than that, if you're like me, I wanted an alternative to propane and induction seemed like the way to go...here's my experiment...

I finally went for it and bought a couple 25 gallon Northern Brewer kettles and a 15 gallon one, too (that one is mainly for a rigged HERMS system I am going to set up).

Also, I bought two Duxtop 1800 watt induction cookers (http://www.amazon.com/1800-Watt-Portable-Induction-Countertop-8100MC/dp/B0045QEPYM) from amazon.

I wanted to put it to the test so here is what I had:

*For this TEST, my 25 gallon kettle is on a rigged rail system (if I can upload a photo I will, otherwise I'll attach a link) whereby I put the edges of the kettle on two 2x4's and used cardboard as wedges to fit everything to height and induction plates right underneath the kettle...here's what I got:

**My actual system will not be using 2x4's!!! I only did this as a test to see how fast and and what temperatures I can get my 25 gallon kettle of WATER to certain temperatures**

ADDITIONAL INFO: Water was about 65 degrees fahrenheit , outside temperature roughly 70 degrees fahrenheit, in an open garage, little wind. During the course of the experiment, outside temp decreased to 67. Also, the induction plate on the backside of the garage didn't have the best fan/air circulation so I kept it at a heating # of 8/10 (the max) while the other was at 9/10 (max). I did end up increasing the back induction plate to 9/10 roughly halfway through.

65 degrees: 3:55 PM
78 degrees: 4:05
88 degrees: 4:15
95 degrees: 4:25
104 degrees: 4:35
114 degrees: 4:45
paused and checked 20 minutes later
135 degrees: 5:05
145 degrees: 5:15

and so on...

Essentially, I was getting about 1-1.2 degrees a minute increase with my setup.

But there was a few things to keep in mind. I have the sides of my kettle wrapped in Reflectix (double) but the top was only covered by kettle top not reflectix, which to me meant some heat loss as opposed to being covered by insulation (since we know heat rises). Additionally, and possibly more important, I don't have my kettles drilled for ball valve drains, glass sights, or temp probes, so I had to manually open the top (heat loss) and measure for 45+ seconds the temperature. Last, with ideal conditions, the induction plates would be at 10/10 the entire time.

Keeping that in mind, like I wrote, I was getting about 1-1.2 degree increase per minute. When I get probes inserted/cover the top in insulation/etc. I hope to have a steady/increase that rate (although increasing won't be dramatic/too much).

So that's it. Just my own home experiment.

If anyone wants to know, I am planning on upgrading to 3500 W induction plates in the next 8-10 months. I just don't have the ability to run $$$ 220V extension cords to my appliance outlet. Later I will, but not now. Also, I will be using my 15 gallon kettle (on induction plates) with an added copper coil to act as a HERMS system to recirculate wort to my mash. After I sparge, I plan on using induction to heat to boil.

That's my experiment.

img_20130906_182106.jpg  
__________________
BoABrewer is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-07-2013, 02:42 PM   #30
wobdee
Junior Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Lake Wissota, Wisconsin
Posts: 503
Liked 37 Times on 28 Posts

Default

I ended up going back to my propane burner and BIAB. The Burton plate just takes too long to bring up 4+ gal of wort to a boil and you need the lid 3/4 on or it will just simmer. I still use it to heat up a small amount of sparge water for bigger brews.

__________________
wobdee is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Induction Plate not Boiling quite right travlinScott Electric Brewing 38 09-07-2013 02:29 AM
For Sale - (2) 1800W Induction cook tops uberg33k For Sale 16 05-31-2012 08:20 PM
Induction??? Katie225 Electric Brewing 1 10-26-2011 06:20 PM
Induction [again] maztec Equipment/Sanitation 30 07-30-2010 01:04 AM
1800W Induction cooktop BrewDoc Extract Brewing 1 01-11-2009 11:05 PM