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Old 07-30-2010, 08:16 PM   #11
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A mash is a mash regardless of 2 lbs or twenty. It will take 30-60 minutes to fully convert. Without doing an Idodine test to check, you wait 60 to be sure. Now if you're not boiling that portion of the wort, you're not concentrating it therefore your OG will be lower than if you had and like Bobby said, hop utilization will be effected.
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:24 PM   #12
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Is it niave to assume the barley malt extract manufacturor boiled the wort for 1 hour before the water was removed to create DME for sale to home brewers?

I've read many posts that say there is no need to boil DME wort for long periods unless you are trying to mimic a specific hop outcome (e.g, a specific bitter and aroma profile that requires a long boil).

Thx...
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:34 PM   #13
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OK - thanks. I think I have the mash part down. I steep grains in in a bag at 150F in water in a separate pot for about one hour.

My question is really, after the one hour mash has been completed, do I need to boil at 212F the grain mash for one hour or can I just add the grain wort to the extract main boil for 10-15 minutes at the end of the boil?

I guess the short question is: do I need two hours of stove time (1 hour for mashing, 1 hour for boiling) if I am steeping grains that will be added to an extract wort?
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:38 PM   #14
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OK - thanks. I think I have the mash part down. I steep grains in in a bag at 150F in water in a separate pot for about one hour.

My question is really, after the one hour mash has been completed, do I need to boil at 212F the grain mash for one hour or can I just add the grain wort to the extract main boil for 10-15 minutes at the end of the boil?

I guess the short question is: do I need two hours of stove time (1 hour for mashing, 1 hour for boiling) if I am steeping grains that will be added to an extract wort?
You don't need to, but you'll have to figure that in for your expected gravity and adjust your hop profile to compensate. 10-15 is plenty to boil for sanitizing reasons.
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:59 PM   #15
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I've been told there are five main reasons for boiling the wort.

1. Sanitization - This can be done with a reduced boil time
2. Isomerization - This could be done with a reduced boil time, if you use a hop extract.
3. Volitization - The only way I can think of to reduce the time here is by using darker kilned base malts. The darker they're kilned, the more SMM was already converted to DMS and driven off.
4. Concentration - Probably not an issue for you
5. Coagulation of proteins - I'm not totally sure, but I think as long as you boil long enough to get your hot break, you're fine here.
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Old 08-01-2010, 05:07 PM   #16
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I've been told there are five main reasons for boiling the wort.

1. Sanitization - This can be done with a reduced boil time
2. Isomerization - This could be done with a reduced boil time, if you use a hop extract.
3. Volitization - The only way I can think of to reduce the time here is by using darker kilned base malts. The darker they're kilned, the more SMM was already converted to DMS and driven off.
4. Concentration - Probably not an issue for you
5. Coagulation of proteins - I'm not totally sure, but I think as long as you boil long enough to get your hot break, you're fine here.
Great summary. Remember, from 9000BC to the renaissance, beer (or its cousins) was about the only safe thing to drink, primarily due to the fact that it was boiled to kill the microorganisms that make us sick. We take for granted the fact that we can just draw safe water out of the tap, but the concept of sanitized municipal water is very new, and still unknown in many developing worlds (even China).

If you don't boil the wort or at least sanitize it somehow, you will end up with either vinegar or sour beer. Trust me...why don't you leave your spent grains out until the next day. They will smell sour and foul due to the wild yeast and bacteria crawling over the grains.
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Old 08-01-2010, 06:20 PM   #17
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It would take a little software figuring to see how you'd have to change your hop bill but sure, you can accomplish what you're after in about an hour and a half. How big is your boil kettle? One of the benefits to using all mash-derived wort as your starting boil is it can be more volume. You'd have higher extract efficiency. It really depends on how much of the total fermentables you plan to get from the mash. If it's a minor role, it won't matter much. In any case, I'd want to vigorously boil the mash derived wort for at least 20 minutes to get your hot break and boil off the DMS precursors.
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