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Old 01-24-2013, 12:38 PM   #11
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I've been a reefer for 25 years. Sorta got out of it when my tank crashed about 3 years ago (lost most coral, fish are OK), but in the last few weeks I've been messing with it again.

I've got an RO/DI that feeds a makeup water tank. That tank gravity feeds into my sump through a float valve. Maybe that sounds complex, but it's not, and it keeps my tank full all the time (I've got metal halides and VHO actinics and I get a ton of evaporation).

I've never measured the content of the RO/DI output. I have used that water for brewing pilsners. Can't tell you if it improved anything. My pilsners are just meh.
Its an awesome hobby, I could only get the SWMBO to bless off on a 29gal bicube, but its stuffed with lots of colorful zoas, acans, rics and such. Just started adding a bunch of SPS, so now I've gotten more complicated because now I have to dose 2 part, but its still fun. I'm running halides also with blue moon leds at night so I hear ya on the evaporation, going through about 3-4 gals of makeup water a week. Plus the weekly 5 gal water change. I tried out a pheonix bulb and really really liked it but I didn't have any kind of uv protection so I ended up blasting everything on the top 1/3 of the tank, so now I'm saving up for some LEDs, those are going to set me back about 600 bucks. But I sure love the hobby, wife gets a little jealous cause I spend alot of time just watching it and not her. lol
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:49 PM   #12
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Martin, since I use your software to brew by, would you suggest setting all my ions to zero? The last batch I did I just "fooled" the program by use 100% dilution RO water, but not all the values defaulted to zero like they do when I select distilled. Whats the best way for me to set up the software?

I would probably set it to distilled unless the software has the option for a custom water profile (like Beersmith).

I also have aquaria and we use a Kent Marine three stage full post cati/ani system for it. We went with that system because of the need to remove phosphates and high silicates from our water, something most R/O membranes don't handle that well. That, plus it produces no waste water and it can make 300+ gallons of product water a day. Very fast and efficient, and I can re-charge the media with muriatic acid (pool store). With my hydroponic grade, multi probe pH/TDS meter, it reads absolutely zero dissolved solids and pH 7.0 every time.

For beer though, I don't need water anywhere near that pure. I usually will use a 50/50% mix of filtered water to tap water for my brewing needs to ensure that the yeasts get what they need. I also mix in a little yeast nutrient just to be safe. Seems to work pretty great doing it this way.
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:00 PM   #13
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Its an awesome hobby, I could only get the SWMBO to bless off on a 29gal bicube, but its stuffed with lots of colorful zoas, acans, rics and such. Just started adding a bunch of SPS, so now I've gotten more complicated because now I have to dose 2 part, but its still fun. I'm running halides also with blue moon leds at night so I hear ya on the evaporation, going through about 3-4 gals of makeup water a week. Plus the weekly 5 gal water change. I tried out a pheonix bulb and really really liked it but I didn't have any kind of uv protection so I ended up blasting everything on the top 1/3 of the tank, so now I'm saving up for some LEDs, those are going to set me back about 600 bucks. But I sure love the hobby, wife gets a little jealous cause I spend alot of time just watching it and not her. lol
Yep. I'm travelling right now, but when I get back I'm replacing my fluorescent VHO actinics with a 48" Reefbright LED strip. My big push now is to get my temps down before summer comes. I'm trying to avoid a chiller. I'd love to go 100% LEDs, but I don't trust the spectrum content.

Yes, metal halides without the glass cover to suppress some of the deep UV is going to bleach the corals at the top. Phoenix lamps are supposedly the best, and I've got them in now, but I've had great luck with Hamilton also.
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Old 01-28-2013, 01:18 AM   #14
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To say that DI and Distilled water are the same is not exactly the truth.

http://www.distilleddeionizedwater.c...stilled-water/

I too have a reef tank at home (135 and 29 biocube). I have considered using my DI water to brew with adding the proper elements back in to achieve a custom profile for the region of the beer I am brewing. You are actually better off starting with RO/DI or Distilled water than just RO as an RO unit can leave salts and potassium at levels that are unknown unless you can test for them. You can also get a water report for your area from the water supplier and start there with some of the available charts that are available.

On a the LED subject.. You should check out www.buildmyled.com. They are a new business here in Austin, TX that specialize in horticulture and reef tank lighting. They are actually pretty affordable for what you get. I could have bought new fixtures at near the price as I built my own LED lighting.. You should be able to light that 29 Biocube for right around $130 with a custom spectrum of light..

-Jake

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