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Old 10-21-2012, 08:31 PM   #11
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Thanks. I have my head up my....today (at minimum).

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Old 10-21-2012, 11:28 PM   #12
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Yes. My results came back as SO4-s. Do you guys recommend colorplast strips for me to start out?

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Old 10-22-2012, 12:06 AM   #13
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ColorpHast strips are better than paper strips and should provide a good indication of mash pH. A strip pH indication of 5.0 to 5.2 should be equivalent to a mash pH of about 5.2 to 5.5 which is where you want the mash to be.

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Old 10-22-2012, 01:16 AM   #14
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Does the water salts get added to the strike water or after mash-in has begun? Also, how long do you wait before talking a Ph reading of your mash? I'm also going to pay special attention to the Ph of my sparge water. Knowing I'm at 8 I would like to bring that under 6 and also make sure my temps don't go above 160 since I have an enclosed lid sparging process. My current sparge process takes a good 45min for 5gallon batch.

Any other good ph instruments that are great for price and are more durable? Miliwalkee?

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Old 10-22-2012, 01:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrungard
ColorpHast strips are better than paper strips and should provide a good indication of mash pH. A strip pH indication of 5.0 to 5.2 should be equivalent to a mash pH of about 5.2 to 5.5 which is where you want the mash to be.
With that said what range strips would be ideal?
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Old 10-22-2012, 08:43 PM   #16
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the best range is 4-7

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Old 10-24-2012, 02:22 AM   #17
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Does the water salts get added to the strike water or after mash-in has begun? Also, how long do you wait before talking a Ph reading of your mash? I'm also going to pay special attention to the Ph of my sparge water. Knowing I'm at 8 I would like to bring that under 6 and also make sure my temps don't go above 160 since I have an enclosed lid sparging process. My current sparge process takes a good 45min for 5gal batch.

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Old 10-24-2012, 12:29 PM   #18
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It is obviously easiest if you can treat the whole volume of water before doughing in and this is especially so if the mash water and sparge water are to be treated the same. This isn't always possible as some people don't have a vessel large enough to hold the entire volume and sometimes the sparge water has to be treated separately.

Initially you should not add alkali, if any is required, to the water but rather add it to the mash and stir it in thoroughly, then check pH. When you have determined how much lime is necessary (don't use chalk) then you can, for subsequent batches, add it to the water.

The pH of the mash takes some time to stabilize. As you are learning I'd suggest several readings. One at dough in, one 5 minutes later, one 10, 15, 20... minutes later. This will let you see how fast the pH changes. As a general rule 15 - 20 minutes is required but this will depend on the grist - particularly if you use sauermalz.

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Old 10-29-2012, 10:54 PM   #19
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Anyone feel like taking a stab at mine?

pH 9.3
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 720
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 1.20
Cations / Anions, me/L 11.3 / 12.2

Sodium, Na 205
Potassium, K 8
Calcium, Ca 22
Magnesium, Mg 13
Total Hardness, CaCO3 109
Nitrate, NO3-N 0.5 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 121
Chloride, Cl 91
Carbonate, CO3 20
Bicarbonate, HCO3 85
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 104
Fluoride, F 1.05
Total Iron, Fe 0.05

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Old 10-29-2012, 11:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatjonguy View Post
Anyone feel like taking a stab at mine?

pH 9.3
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 720
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 1.20
Cations / Anions, me/L 11.3 / 12.2

Sodium, Na 205
Did you get this water out of the ocean?
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